How to Make a DIY Finger Pincushion (Easy Beginner Sewing Project)

If you’re tired of constantly setting your pins down and searching for them again, this little DIY finger pincushion might become one of your favorite sewing accessories.

Unlike a traditional wrist pincushion, a finger pincushion sits comfortably on your finger, keeping your pins exactly where you need them without getting in the way.

It’s especially handy for hand sewing, quilting, English paper piecing, embroidery, and any project where you’re constantly reaching for pins.

The best part? It only takes a small scrap of fabric and a few inexpensive supplies to make one.

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist looking for a quick scrap-busting project, this is a fun project you can finish in less than an hour.

Watch the Video Tutorial

If you’d rather follow along visually, be sure to watch the full video tutorial before you begin. It walks you through every step and includes several helpful tips that are easier to demonstrate on video.

Supplies Needed

You’ll need:

Cotton fabric scrap
Fiberfill stuffing
Small plastic juice bottle lid
Small hair elastic
Embroidery floss
Heavy-duty thread
Embroidery needle
Small button
Scissors
Awl (or something similar to poke a hole in the lid)

The finished finger pincushion measures approximately 1¼ inches (3.2 cm) across and uses only one circular fabric piece cut from the pattern.

How to Make a Finger Pincushion

Step 1: Cut Out the Fabric

Download the pattern here and cut one circle from your fabric. This single circle forms the entire pincushion.

Step 2: Prepare the Lid and Finger Ring

Using an awl, poke a small hole through the center of the plastic lid.

Cut the elastic. To thread the elastic through the hole, create a small loop of thread and use it like a needle threader to pull the elastic through the opening.

Place the ring on your finger, adjust it until it fits comfortably, tie a secure knot, and trim away the excess elastic.

Tip: The elastic should feel snug enough to stay in place but not so tight that it becomes uncomfortable during long sewing sessions.

Step 3: Sew the Pincushion

Thread an embroidery needle with heavy-duty thread.

Using long basting stitches, sew around the edge of the fabric circle about ¼ inch from the edge.

Pull the thread gently to create a little pouch.

Add fiberfill stuffing until the pincushion is nice and firm.

Insert the prepared lid with the elastic attached.

Continue gathering the fabric around the lid, tucking in the raw edges as you go.

Sew around the bottom again to secure everything in place before knotting the thread.

Step 4: Sew on the Button

Sew a decorative button to the top center of the pincushion.

Not only does it add a cute finishing touch, but it also helps slightly compress the center, giving the pincushion its classic pumpkin shape.

That’s It!

Your new finger pincushion is ready to use!

Slip it onto your finger the next time you’re quilting, hand stitching, or sewing garments, and you’ll wonder how you ever worked without it.

Finger Pincushion vs. Wrist Pincushion

Both styles have their advantages.

A finger pincushion is great when:

Hand sewing
English Paper Piecing
Embroidery
Small quilting projects
Working at a table

A wrist pincushion is often better for:

Garment sewing
Pinning large pieces of fabric
Standing while sewing
Frequent trips between the ironing board and sewing machine

I actually keep both nearby and choose whichever works best for the project I’m working on.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of fabric works best?

Quilting cotton works beautifully because it’s easy to sew and holds its shape well.

Can I use something besides a plastic lid?

The plastic lid gives the pincushion stability while providing a secure place to attach the elastic. Similar-sized plastic lids from juice or water bottles should also work well.

Can beginners make this project?

Absolutely! This is an excellent beginner sewing project that introduces basic hand sewing, gathering stitches, stuffing, and simple finishing techniques.

Does the elastic adjust?

Yes! The elastic is fitted to your own finger before tying the final knot, making it comfortable for almost any finger size.

Get the Printable Pattern

Want the printable version with full-size pattern pieces and step-by-step photos?

👉 Get the Wrist & Finger Pincushion PDF Pattern here:

My website

My Etsy shop

The printable pattern also includes instructions for making the matching wrist pincushion, so you can make one—or both!

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How To Sew a Pillowcase Using French Seams or a Serger / Easy Sewing Project

If you’re new to sewing, making a pillowcase is one of the best beginner projects you can start with. It’s simple, practical, and gives you the chance to practice straight seams, pressing, and finishing techniques.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you two easy methods for sewing a basic pillowcase:

A French seam method (great if you don’t have a serger)
A Serger method (fast and professional)
Both techniques create a clean, durable finish that holds up beautifully in the wash — no fraying edges here!

Supplies You’ll Need

1 yard fabric (standard-size pillowcase)
Straight pins
Seam gauge
Scissors
Rotary cutter, mat, and ruler (optional but helpful)
Iron
Sewing machine
Safety pin (optional tip)
Serger (for the serger method)
Fabric suggestions:
Quilting cotton (most common)
Flannel
Fleece
Silky fabrics

Most woven fabrics come 43–44 inches wide, which works perfectly for this project.

Pillowcase Measurements

Standard Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 36 x 44 inches

Queen Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 39 x 44 inches

King Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 42 x 44 inches

Click on the link below to get the free pillowcase cutting guide.

Preparing Your Fabric

If using flannel or cotton, prewash first to prevent shrinkage.

1- Fold fabric in half (salvage edges together).

2- Trim off salvage edges (about ½”).
3- Square up the cut edges using your mat grid to a length of 36 inches.

You should now have a rectangle measuring:

36 x 43-44 inches

Helpful Tip:
Attach a safety pin to the salvage edge so you can easily remember which side is the pillowcase edge.

Pre-Fold the Cuff

Before sewing seams, prep the pillowcase opening:

Fold the wide edge down ½ inch — press.
Fold another 4 inches — press well.

Method 1: French Seam Pillowcase

French seams enclose all raw edges inside the seam — perfect if you don’t own a serger.

Step 1 – Sew First Seam

Place the fabric wrong sides together.
Keep the 2.1-inch folded down.
Pin along the side and the bottom.
(Optional) Insert a fabric tag into the side seam. (see video for more details).

Sew down the side and bottom, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Step 2 – Turn & Press

Turn the pillowcase wrong side out.
Push out corners with a turning tool.
Roll seams flat with fingers.
Press well.

Step 3 – Sew Second Seam

Sew again along side and bottom using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

This encloses all raw edges inside the seam.

Turn the right side out and press.

You’ll now see a beautifully finished interior — no fraying!

Step 4 – Finish the Cuff

Refold the pressed cuff.
Pin in place.
Topstitch along the folded edge.

Using an edge-stitch foot or a blind hem foot. This helps keep your seam perfectly straight.

Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Optional: Add trim, such as lace or rickrack, to the seam for decoration.

Method 2: Serger Pillowcase

This method is faster and great for batch sewing.

If using flannel or cotton, prewash first to prevent shrinkage.

Cut fabric to:

43” x 40” (Queen-size example)

Step 1 – Pre-Fold Cuff

Same as before:

Fold ½ inch — press
Fold 4 inches — press
Open the folds, leaving the ½ inch press

Step 2 – Sew Side Seam

Serger Corner Tip

Before serging the corner: Pre-cut the seam allowance just on the bottom corner, about ½ inches.

This allows you to pivot cleanly without bunching.

Place the fabric right sides together.
Align edges carefully — avoid twisting.
Pin in place.

Serge the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Step 3 – Enclose the Cuff Seam

Turn the pillowcase right-side facing out.

Refold the cuff along pressed lines so the serged seam is enclosed inside the fold — just like store-bought pillowcases.

Pin and press if needed.

Step 4 – Topstitch

Topstitch along the cuff edge using an edge foot or blind hem foot, for guidance.

(Optional: Add a fabric tag in the seam as shown in Method 1.)

Finished Pillowcase

You now have a beautifully finished pillowcase with:

Enclosed seams
Professional cuff
Optional decorative trim

Make a second one for a matching set — they sew up quickly!

Beginner Sewing Tips

Always square your fabric before cutting.
Press every step — it makes a huge difference.
Use French seams if you don’t own a serger.
Flannel makes especially cozy pillowcases.
Add tags or trims for a custom touch.

Learn how to make your own custom tags/labels – HERE

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Jan Howell

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How to Sew a Tote Bag / Easy Beginner Sewing Project

These little DIY tote bags are quick to make, use up fabric scraps, and are super handy for everyday life.

You can fold them up and tuck them into your
Use them as lightweight shopping bags, or even carry books, crochet, or craft supplies.

No interfacing required—just fabric and a few basic sewing supplies.

I’ll show you two methods for sewing tote bags:

A French seam with a regular sewing machine.
Using a serger with finished edges.

Why You’ll Love Making This Tote Bag

✔ Beginner-friendly — no advanced techniques required
✔ Great scrap-buster project
✔ Reusable and eco-friendly
✔ Perfect handmade gift idea
✔ Fun to customize with colorful fabrics and tags

Supplies You’ll Need

Quilter’s cotton, canvas, or denim fabric
Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat
scissors
Fabric clips or pins
Heat-erasable pen or marking tool
Sewing machine (or serger)
Iron
Spray starch (optional)
Optional: labels or tags for a personal touch

Learn how to make your own labels and tags HERE.

Cutting Out Tote Bag

Sewing machine/French seam method: Cut two pieces – 17.5″ x 19″
Serger method: Cut two pieces – 17.5″ x 18″
Straps: Cut two pieces – 4″ x 26″
***Tip: Mix and match fabrics for a fun, whimsical look—or go classic with matching straps and panels.

Step 1: Prep Your Fabric

Trim selvage edges so your fabric is straight.
Cut out two bag panels and two straps.

***If you want to add a label on the front of the bag, do that now.

Step 2: Sew the Straps

*** Spraying the wrong side of the straps with spray starch before pressing is very helpful in getting crisp edges of the fabric.

Fold the strap in half lengthwise and press.
Open up the strap and fold each edge in toward the center, press again.
Fold in half once more to enclose the raw edges.
Topstitch along both sides using a 1/8 inch seam allowance.
***Batch sewing? Sew the straps right after each other while topstitching to save time and thread.

Step 3: Assemble the Bag (French Seam Method)

Place the wrong sides together and clip in place.
If you want to add a label or tag to the bag, do that now.
Place the label on top of the fabric, 3/8 inch from the edge of the fabric.
Baste the tag in place using a 1/8 inch seam.

5. Sew around three sides of the bag with a ¼” seam allowance, pivoting at corners.

6. Trim corners and press seam open.
7. Turn the bag inside out and press.
8. Sew around the same three sides again with a 3/8 inch seam allowance to enclose raw edges..

Step 4: Hem the Top

Measure down 2 inches from the top edge and draw a line using a disappearing ink pen.
Measure 1 inch from that line and mark another line. (Do this on both sides of the bag).

*** A starch spray is also good to use on this hem.

3. Fold the top edge down to meet the first line and press.
4. Fold that edge down to the next line and press.
5. Mark strap placement: measure in 4.5″ from each side.
6. Insert straps under the fold and clip in place, making sure they aren’t twisted.

Step 5: Top Stitch and Secure the Straps

Stitch 1/8 inch from the lower folded edge, catching the straps.
Topstitch again along the top edge.
Sew an “X” where the straps meet the bag for extra strength.

Step 6 : Assemble the Bag (Serger Method)

*** Label/Tag Application (optional)

Place the label BETWEEN THE TWO FABRIC PIECES, 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. Baste the tag in place using a 1/8 inch seam.
Place right sides together and serge around the sides and bottom with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Step 7: Hem The Top Edge (Serger Method)

Measure 1 inch down from the top edge and mark a line.
2 Finish the top by serging the raw edge, then fold over to meet the 1″ line. Press and topstitch.
Attach the straps the same way as above.

That’s it! These bags are perfect for gifts, market bags, or even to sell at craft fairs.

Want to make them even more versatile?

Add a boxed bottom to give your tote extra room.

I show you exactly how in this tutorial.

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How To Make a Fabric Wristlet the Easy Way (10-Minute Scrap Busting Project!)

If you’ve got 10 minutes, a few fabric scraps, and some keychain hardware, you’ve got everything you need to make a super handy fabric wristlet.

They’re perfect for holding keys, earbuds, small zipper pouches—and they make awesome gifts or items to sell.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you an easy method for making a wristlet using fabric and webbing, plus share some handy sewing tips that will save you time and frustration.

This is also a great scrap-buster project if you’ve got leftover quilting cotton or bias tape lying around.

✂️ Supplies You’ll Need

Fabric scraps (quilting cotton works best)
Cut into strips 1½ inches wide and 11–12 inches long
Webbing (1-inch wide, cotton or poly blend)
Cut to 11 inches (or adjust for your desired wristlet length)
Bias tape maker (1-inch size recommended, optional but helpful)
Starch spray (like Faultless Heavy Starch – helps with crisp folds)
Key fob hardware set (includes clamp and split ring)
Key fob clamp pliers
Fray Check
Sewing machine & iron
Scissors, rotary cutter, ruler
fabric clips

🧵 Wristlet Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prep the Webbing

Cut the webbing to the desired length for your wristlet. An average size is approximately 11 inches.
Trim the ends so they’re straight and square.
Apply a small amount of Fray Check to the cut ends and let it dry while you prepare your fabric.

2. Cut and Press the Fabric Strip

Cut fabric strip 1½” wide by at least 12″ long (add about 1 inch for some wiggle room).
Spray the back side of the fabric strip with spray starch. A little starch spray goes a long way to keep the folds crisp and clean.
Use a bias tape maker to press the strip into neat folds. You don’t need to cut it on the bias—straight grain works great here! *If you don’t have a bias tape maker, you can just fold the strip in half and then fold the edges over to meet halfway and press.

3. Attach Fabric to Webbing

Center the folded fabric strip on top of your webbing.
Use fabric clips to hold it in place.
Topstitch along both long edges of the fabric using a coordinating thread. (1/8 inch from the folded edge of fabric).
Trim the ends of the webbing and fabric.

🏷️ Want to add a custom label? Now’s the time to sew it in!

Here’s how to make your own labels.

4. Apply the Key Fob Clamp To The Wristlet

Line up the raw ends of your wristlet.
Optional: Add a small amount of B7000 or E6000 glue to the inside front of the clamp to keep things extra secure.
Slide the clamp over the ends, making sure everything is centered and straight.
Using pliers, gently clamp each side in place. Finish with one firm squeeze.

And that’s it! You now have a beautiful, functional fabric wristlet you can whip up in 10 minutes or less.

💡 Tips & Tricks

These are great to batch sew for gifts, market booths, or fundraisers.
Try themed prints for holidays or custom fabric for branding.
Recycle old bag straps or trims for the webbing.
Use up those little fabric strips you couldn’t bring yourself to toss!

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Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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How To Make a Mini Zipper Pouch // Quick and Easy Sewing Project

This mini zipper pouch is a fun and practical sewing project. It is quick and easy, perfect for beginners!

These little pouches are the right size for storing jewelry, earbuds, or other small essentials.

Best of all, they require only a small amount of fabric and can be customized in endless ways.

Follow this step-by-step guide to create your own mini zipper pouch!

Materials You’ll Need

▪ Fabric: Quilter’s cotton, denim, upcycled fabric, vinyl, faux leather, or scrappy fabric panels
▪ Interfacing: Lightweight interfacing or fusible fleece
▪ Zipper: Half of a zipper (one side) with a zipper pull, 8 ½ inches of zipper. (I love using “zippers-by-the-yard”
▪ D-Ring (optional): 1/2-inch D-ring with 2 inches of twill tape (or a fabric loop)
▪ Basic Sewing Supplies: Fabric scissors, rotary cutter, ruler, turning stick, sewing machine, zipper foot, iron, and ironing board
▪ Fabric Glue or Glue Stick (Optional): Helps with zipper placement

Cutting Out Mini Zipper Pouch

• Cut One Outer Fabric and One Lining Fabric: 3″ x 7 3/4″
• Interfacing: 2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ (cut smaller to reduce bulk)

***If using thicker fabric like denim or corduroy, apply interfacing only to the lining fabric.

Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric

Apply Interfacing:

Place the interfacing’s rough (glue) side onto the wrong side of the lining fabric.
Press with an iron to adhere.
****Embellish (Optional): If you want to add embroidery or an appliqué before assembling the pouch.

Vinyl Version:

Use lightweight vinyl or faux leather instead of fabric. No lining is needed—attach the zipper directly to the vinyl.

Fold the zipper tape under and topstitch.
Fold the pouch in half and sew the sides and bottom. Easy!

Step 2: D-Ring Application (optional)

Fold the twill tape in half, thread it through the D-ring, and baste it onto the fabric about 1/8″ from the edge.

Step 3: Zipper Application

Glue Basting the Zipper:

Place the wrong side of the zipper facing up onto a piece of scrap paper.
Apply a small bead of glue onto the zipper taper.
Center the zipper onto the RIGHT SIDE of the LINING FABRIC, aligning the edges.
Press with an iron to set in place. (This is NOT permanent). This helps keep the zipper from shifting while sewing.

Now apply a bead of glue to the RIGHT SIDE OF THE ZIPPER TAPE, and place the RIGHT SIDE OF THE OUTER FABRIC onto the zipper.
Use a hot iron to set in place.

Sew the Zipper:

Attach the zipper foot to your machine with the needle on the left.

Sew along the edge, 1/8 inch from the zipper teeth.

Topstitch:

Fold the fabric so the wrong sides are together.
Press the edges well and topstitch about 1/8″ from the edge for a clean, professional look.

Step 4: Attaching the Zipper Pull

Using a “zipper gadget” is nice, but don’t worry if you don’t have one.

Line up the ends of the zipper tape and thread the zipper ends into the zipper pull. (The Video tutorial is beneficial.)
Once attached, zip the zipper up only halfway.

Step 5: Assemble the Pouch

Open up the pouch so that when folded in half, the lining and the outer fabrics face RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
Line up the raw edges and pin in place.
Place the zipper tape so it is facing towards the lining fabric.
Sew along the bottom of the outer fabric and the sides of the pouch. (Go slow when sewing over the zipper.)

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

***LEAVE THE BOTTOM OF THE LINING PIECE unsewn.

Trim off excess zipper.

Reduce bulk by clipping the corners and trimming excess zipper tape

Step 5: Turn and Finish

Turn the Pouch Right Side Out
Use a turning stick to push out the corners gently.

Close the Lining Opening

Fold in the raw edges of the lining bottom under ¼ inch.
Press and clip in place.
Topstitch close to the edge.
Push the lining inside the pouch and poke out the corners.

Mini Zipper Pouce Alternative Materials & Embellishments

Personalized Touches: Add a fabric label, appliqué, or embroidery for unique designs.

There are so many fun options and color combinations that can be used.

Have fun making this mini zipper pouch.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Make a Cozy Baby Swaddle Blanket / Simple Sewing Project

I’m excited to share this swaddle blanket tutorial with you because I’ll soon be a grandmother!

With the excitement of a little one joining the family, I’ve started creating special items for the baby.

One of my favorites is this easy-to-make swaddle blanket, made from soft, cozy gauze fabric that improves with each wash.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for making a baby swaddle blanket.

These make the perfect baby gift for your little ones.

Why a Swaddle Blanket is a Must-Have

Swaddle blankets have become an essential part of baby care for many modern parents.

Though they weren’t as popular in the past, today’s parents often rely on swaddling for its numerous benefits.

Here’s why swaddle blankets are so loved:

Promotes Better Sleep: Swaddling mimics the snug environment of the womb, helping babies feel safe and secure. This can lead to deeper, more restful sleep, especially for newborns adjusting to the world.
Reduces Startle Reflex: Many babies are easily startled by their own arm movements, which can disrupt sleep.
A swaddle blanket gently contains their arms, helping minimize this reflex.
Versatile and
Lightweight: Swaddle blankets can double as a burp cloth, nursing cover, or stroller blanket, making them an ideal multi-purpose item for on-the-go parents.
They’re also typically lightweight, making them easy to carry along in a diaper bag.

The Beauty of Double Gauze Fabric

Despite its crinkly appearance, double gauze is surprisingly easy to sew, and its built-in grid pattern often helps with cutting and aligning edges.

It’s also available in a wide variety of colors and patterns, making it a beautiful choice for customized baby blankets.

Materials and Items Needed to Make a Swaddle Blanket

Before we dive into sewing, gather these essential materials and supplies.

Fabric: Double gauze (also known as gauze or muslin), cotton, about 48–50 inches wide
Fabric scissors (recommended over a rotary cutter for this fabric)
Sewing machine
Thread to match your fabric
Measuring tools: Hot hemmers, seam gauge, or measuring tape
Iron and ironing board
Marking pen (I use a heat-activated disappearing ink pen for convenience)

Step 1: Choose Your Swaddle Blanket Size

The typical size for a swaddle blanket is between 36 to 40 inches square, but feel free to customize. For this tutorial, I’m making one that’s 43 by 50 inches. (100 x 127 cm)

Tip: Gauze fabric often comes on the bolt measuring about 45-45 inches selvage to selvage. It also comes with helpful square lines, making it easy to cut along the grain and keep edges straight.

Avoid pre-washing the fabric to maintain its shape and make sewing easier.

Step 2: Prepare the Fabric

Cutting: Use scissors to trim the fabric along its grid lines. If your fabric has a print, align your cut to match it. For fabric without lines, you can pull a thread from the edge and cut along that line to ensure a straight edge.
Ironing: Lightly press out the wrinkles to make cutting easier. Avoid flattening the natural texture entirely; it’ll add charm to the blanket.

Step 3: Sewing the Swaddle Blanket

Hemming Techniques

There are two main ways to hem this blanket—square corner hem and mitered corner hem. Both are easy, so choose your favorite!

Topstitching Sewing Tips:

Set your machine to a slightly longer stitch length (I prefer a 3.0) and use your presser foot as a guide.

Position the needle to sew about ⅛ inch from the fold for a consistent topstitch.

Swaddle Blanket Square Corner Hem (Quick Method)

Fold the edge over by ½ inch, press, then fold it over another ½ inch to create a double fold. I love this Hot Hemmer for hemming and it also comes in handy for other sewing projects.
Use clips or pins to hold your folds in place, then topstitch around the blanket, keeping your stitch line about ⅛ inch from the folded edge.

Swaddle Blanket Mitered Corner Hem (Professional Look)

Mark a point 1.5 inches from each edge of the corner, then cut fabric diagonally between these points. You can draw a line if you feel more comfortable with that.
Fold the edges over ½ inch and press in place.
Fold the hemmed edges together with the right side of the fabric together, forming a point.
Use a ruler or the hemmer to draw a perpendicular line from the fabric fold, ½ inch from the cut edge as shown in the picture above.
Sew along the line, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. Trim excess fabric to ¼ inch.
Flip the corner out to see the mitered hem. Yay! Isn’t that the coolest thing?
Repeat the process on all four corners.
Press the ½ inch hem all the way around or fold and sew as you go, which is my preferred method.
When you reach a mitered corner, leave the needle down, pivot the fabric, and continue sewing along the new edge for a seamless finish.

This method reduces bulk, making for a cleaner, professional finish.

Finishing Touches

Now that your blanket is sewn, clip any loose threads, and wash it.

Caring for Your Double Gauze Swaddle Blanket

Double gauze fabric is wonderfully soft and durable, but a little extra care can help maintain its texture and longevity.

Here are some tips to keep your swaddle blanket in great condition:

Washing: Wash the blanket in cold or lukewarm water on a gentle cycle. This helps prevent excessive shrinkage and preserves the softness of the fabric.
Detergent: Use a mild, baby-safe detergent to keep the fabric gentle on baby’s skin. Avoid bleach, as it can damage the delicate cotton fibers.
Drying: For best results, air-dry the blanket to maintain its soft, crinkly texture. If you prefer using a dryer, tumble dry on low heat. Avoid high heat, which can cause the fabric to shrink further or become misshapen.
Ironing (Optional): Double gauze has a natural crinkle, but if you prefer a smoother look, iron on a low setting with a bit of steam. Just be careful, as too much heat can flatten the fabric’s lovely texture.
Storage: Store the blanket folded or rolled in a cool, dry place. Keeping it folded gently preserves its shape, and it’s ready for use at any time.

With proper care, your double gauze swaddle blanket will become softer and cozier with each wash, staying beautifully functional for years to come.

Swaddle blankets pair well with handmade burp cloths, fabric balls, and a diy changing mat for a handmade baby shower gift.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Make the Cutest Scrappy Fabric for Unique Sewing Projects

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baby baby gifts baby swaddle beginner sewing project

How To Make an Eyeglass Case | Sunglass Case | Quick and Simple Project

In this blog post, I show you how to make a super cute eyeglass and sunglass case. These cases are quite simple to make and require just a little bit of fabric making them a great project to use up your fabric scrap.

This is a beginner sewing project that is fun and quite addicting. I dare you to make just one.

Eyeglass Case Materials and Supplies Needed

Sewing machine
Fabric: Solid pieces, prints, or scraps sewn together
Rotary cutter (or scissors if you don’t have a rotary cutter)
Fabric scissors
Fabric clips (or straight pins)
Writing device: Pen or pencil
Turning stick (or point turner)
Universal needle: Size 80 or 90
Fabric stabilizer: Soft and stable, cotton batting or flannel
Seam ripper
Iron and ironing board
Labels (optional for a custom touch)

Eyeglass Case Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric

Cutting Out

Outside piece: 7 by 7.5 inches.
Lining piece: 7 by 9.75 inches.
Stabilizer: 7 by 7 inches.

Step 2: Assemble the Case

Measure and Mark

Measure one inch down on the stabilizer for a seam allowance line.
Place the lining piece right side up and the outside piece right side down, and align the 7-inch ends together.
Place the stabilizer on top and clip everything in place.

Sew the Top Seam:

Using a straight stitch, sew along the drawn line. (No need to backstitch).
Press the Seam
Open the sewn pieces and press the seam with an iron.

Step 3: Add a Label (Optional)

Insert Label

Fold the label in half with the raw edges facing outward.
Baste the label in place. (This will be worth the time taken, trust me).

LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN LABELS HERE.

Open up the pieces of fabric and give the seam edge a good press.
Then, fold the lining over so the wrong sides are facing each other.
Line up the side and bottom edges. Press the top fold.

Step 4: Sew the Edges

Fold the panel in half horizontally, lining up seam and binding.
Pin or clip in place.
Using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, sew around the panel leaving about a 3 inch gap unsewn for turning.
Start sewing from the lining side, backstitching at the start and end, and leave the 3-inch gap unsewn.
Clip the corners without cutting into the seam.

***TIP: Fold and press the opening seam allowances before turning. This will make it a lot easier.

Step 5: Turn

Turn the case right side out through the 3-inch gap.
Use a turning stick to poke out the corners and ensure the foam lays flat.

Step 6: Sewing Opening Closed

Press the outer fabric edges and corners, taking care not to let the iron touch your label.
Fold the pre-pressed seam allowance inside and line up the folded edges.
Clip in place.
Topstitch along the edge to close the opening.

Step 7: Final Touches

Insert the lining into the sunglass case.
Press the top edge for a neat finish.

Imagine all the fun color combinations you can use.

You can even add a snap if you want, but I’ve found that the case holds snugly without one.

Enjoy your new, custom-made eyeglass or sunglass case!

You can also make the outer panels using two other methods: sew-as-you-go fabric strip quilting and scrappy fabric panels.

The sunglass case video below will show these methods.

How To Make the Cutest Scrappy Fabric for Unique Sewing Projects

How To Sew a Scrappy Fabric Quilted Zipper Pouch

A Beginners Guide to Rotary Cutting / Helpful Tips and Tricks

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

DIY Garden Apron / Made From Recycled Jeans / Quick and Simple Project

This DIY garden apron is a quick and simple project made from upcycled jeans. The apron is handy for working in the garden, around the house, and even as a vendor’s apron.

As some of you know, I LOVE to recycle, especially a pair of jeans.

There are so many fun things you can make with denim. At the end of the post, I’ll give you some other project ideas where you can use a pair of recycled jeans.

You can get fancy and edge the bottom of the apron with bias tape, which is really easy to do, or you can just leave it and finish the edge with a serger or even just use a little fray check.

Garden Apron Materials & Items Needed

Here are the items and things that you’ll need for the project.

10 inches of (3/8 – ½ inch) Elastic
Pair of jeans
Fabric Scissors
Fabric clips/pins
Double fold bias tape (optional) approximately 2 yards
Sewing machine or needle and thread
Fray Check (optional)

If you want to make your own bias tape that has prints or different colors, I have a tutorial showing you how to do that.

When you make your bias tape, you can use fun, colorful prints you’ll never see in a fabric store.

Garden Apron Instructions

1- Take your jeans and cut off the pant legs.

Cut straight across just below the crotch seam. ***** If your pants have a front pocket hanging lower than the cut, fold the pocket so you don’t cut it.

After cutting off one pant leg, fold the pants in half and use the cut leg as a template.

Don’t worry too much about straightening the edges; you’ll line that up later.

DON’T THROW AWAY THE JEAN LEGS! Please put them in a tote with all your other jeans scraps for OTHER FUN PROJECTS.

2- Cut out a section of the front pants just below the waistband.

On that left side, take your scissors and cut across just below the waistband, not into the waistband, but over about two inches, and then cut straight down towards the edge of the pant leg.

3- On the zipper side, you’ll cut away the extra fabric around the zipper.

Take your scissors and cut around that area so it looks like this.

4- To square off the bottom of the apron

Fold the pants in half and cut a parallel line straight across, leaving the length as long as possible.

Make sure you don’t cut into the pocket. Fold it up out of the way while you make the cut.

5- Finishing the garden apron bottom:

Open up the apron at the center back seam. There tends to be a little triangle piece of fabric that may stick out; just cut that off.

I like to round the corners, especially using bias tape. You can also leave it square if you want.

Cut a curved rounded edge on one corner, then fold it over and use that as a template to cut the other side.

6- Pinning the bias tape:

Place the apron wrong side, facing up. Open up the bias tape, and smooth it out.

Fold the top edge of the bias tape over about a half inch, and then apply the RIGHT SIDE of the bias tape with the fold just below the zipper tab and clip it in place. I LOVE THESE LITTLE FABRIC CLIPS.

You can use the clips or pins to apply the bias tape all the way around, or can just apply the tape and sew as you go.

Do not cut the bias tape to length quite yet. You’ll do that in just a minute to make sure that you get an accurate fit. (It’s not a good thing if you cut it and then find out you cut it short).

When you get to the other side, measure just below the waistband then ADD 3 inches in length just to be safe and give you some wiggle room.

7- GARDEN APRON Bias Tape Application

Using a straight stitch, go to the sewing machine, and sew the bias tape to the apron.

Bring the needle down just to the RIGHT of the crease in the bias tape. Don’t sew in the crease.

That’ll give you a little more playroom with your bias tape when you fold it around all the fabric. The beautiful thing about bias tape is it’ will curve and work well around the curved edges.

Backstitch and sew all the way around. TAKE YOUR TIME, especially around the corners, stopping and starting as you need.

And if you mess up, go ahead and use your seam ripper and undo that portion that didn’t work out too well and adjust and re-sew.

Bias tape is really fun to work with. It may seem a little intimidating, but it’s really fun once you get used to it.

Adding bias tape adds character to your projects, especially if you have some fun prints to work with.

When you start to get a little closer to the other end, you can leave your needle down and then cut the bias tape to the length that you need.

Fold it over again ½ inch, and then cut it off there, make sure that that fold is just below the waistband. Finish and back stitch.

8- Top Stitch Bias Tape

Flip it over and topstitch. Use a regular straight stitch. When top stitching, I increase the length of the stitch to a 3. It gives a better-looking topstitch.

Fold the folded edge of the bias tape over the previous stitching so it covers that, and sew along the edge., just inside the fold of the bias tape. (about 1/8 inch from the left side. Make sure to catch the edge.

Take your time around the corners, and then when you get to the other side, top stitch over that folded edge.

9- Garden Apron Pockets

Let me show you what to do with the pockets if they are too long.

Not all pockets are going to be this long. Take the pocket and see how much you need to cut off so it doesn’t hang lower than the bottom of the apron.

Take your scissors and cut a curve angling off to match the side of the pocket. Sew a regular straight seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

Finish off the edge using a big zigzag stitch. This will keep the pocket from fraying.

Do that with both pockets.

10- Garden Apron Closure

Let me show you how to apply the elastic to the waistband.

I recommend trying on the apron and seeing how long you need to make the elastic.

Once you have the length, take the elastic, fold it in half, line up the edges of the elastic, and stick it through from the front to the back with the edges lined up.

Secure it in place and sew along the edges of the elastic using a big zigzag stitch. I like to go back and forth a few times to ensure it is secure.

So that’s all there is to it. Grab a pair of jeans, some elastic, your garden tools, and whatever else you need to shove in a pocket in the garden, and have fun sewing!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Apply and Use Kam Snaps the Easy Way

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beginner sewing project garden apron recycled jeans Sewing

2 Easy Ways To Bind a Quilt Using the Backing Fabric

Making a quilt can seem a little intimidating, especially if you’re new to sewing, but it’s actually really quite simple. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to bind the quilt using the backing fabric.

There are 2 easy methods that I am going to show you: hand sewing and using the sewing machine. I’m also going to show you how to add a label or tag to your quilt if you want to.

Using the backing fabric is one of my favorite ways to bind a quilt. It’s really easy, and you can use this method for any quilt that you make. If you haven’t watched my other tutorials in the quilting series, you can find them here.

Materials & Items Needed

Finished Quilt Sandwich (backing, quilt top, and optional batting)
Scissors
Rotary cutter/Mat & Ruler (optional but very helpful)
Sewing Clips or Pins
Mark Tool (Chalk pen or Fabric Pen
Needle & Thread
Sewing machine for the second method
Quilting Safety Pins/Regular Big Safety Pins

Quilt Binding: Method One

Squaring Up the Quilt

One of the first things that you’ll want to do is to square up your quilt. Now, it doesn’t have to be perfect. There’s been a lot going on with the quilt up to this point. You’ve pieced several pieces of fabric together, tied or quilted the quilt, and so there could be a lot of shifting going on. The edges are not going to be even. No WORRIES.

1- GET RID OF EXCESS BATTING

The first thing you’re going to do is get rid of that excess batting. Take your scissors and cut the excess batting along all edges of the quilt, making sure that you’re not cutting that backing fabric.

Of course, the smaller the blanket, the easier this process will be. Place the quilt on a big table, and if you don’t have a big table, you can put the blanket on the floor.

2- MARKING AND CUTTING THE QUILT TOP

The binding needs to be cut so it measures at least one inch. You may need to cut some off the backing or cut some of the quilt top down, so you have a straight line and that one-inch border.

Grab your rotary cutter ruler and or measuring tape. Take the chalk pen and mark it on the quilt top or the backing fabric where you need to cut. It helps to use the cutting ruler to get a straight edge.

Remember it doesn’t have to be perfect. Do this on all sides of the quilt.

*** Before you do any cutting, you’ll want to pull the backing fabric under so you don’t accidentally cut it. To do this, take the safety pins and pin the backing fabric so it’s out of the way. Pin and trim one side of the backing fabric at a time.

I love using these BIG QUILTING SAFETY PINS. However, you can use regular safety pins if you want. Using the ruler, line up the chalk-marking sand and cut off the excess fabric where needed. This is where the ruler and the rotary cutter comes in handy. Repeat this process on all sides of the quilt

After you have squared up the quilt and left a one-inch boarder, It’s time to pin everything in place.

3- FOLDING AND PINNING THE BINDING IN PLACE

Grab a bunch of sewing clips or pins and start in one of the corners of the quilt. Fold the cut edge of the binding to the edge of the top piece and then fold it again. Clip in place.

Let me show you how to make mitered corners. Take the extended rolled binding in the corner and fold it so it makes a little triangle and the folded edge is along the edge of the top piece as shown in the photo above.

Now fold the binding just like you did, and it will make a mitered corner. You’ll come back a little later to hand-sew those corners in place. Clip in place.

There are two ways that you can sew this. You can use a needle and thread, or you can use the sewing machine.

4- SEWING THE BINDING: Needle & Thread Method

The first method of sewing on the binding, I’m going to show you with a needle in the thread. This is one of my favorite ways to bind a quilt.

I find it quite relaxing and enjoyable, even though it takes a little longer. You can place the quilt on your lap, turn on a good movie or podcast and relax.

You can clip the whole quilt or you can clip about 5 clips at a time and work your way around the quilt.

Single-thread your needle with matching thread and knot the end with quilters not. (watch the video HERE for instructions). Start sewing anywhere on the quilt. You’ll be using basically the BLIND HEM STITCH.

Once you sew up to the last clip, you can fold and clip the next 5 clips. Continue this process until you’ve sewn all the way around the quilt.

Insert the needle into the fold of the binding from the back of the binding to the front. Hide the thread knot underneath.

Take a little stitch right at the side of the binding, through all layers. Insert the needle into the fold of the binding and directly across from where you came out on the last stitch.

Then go back into the quilt, and take another little stitch, then go back into the binding. Repeat this process until you run out of thread. Simply re-thread the needle and continue until you’ve sewn all the way around the quilt. Using the same type of stitch, so the mitered corners together. (Watch video to see the process).

5- SEWING THE BINDING: Sewing Machine Method

Thread your machine and load your bobbin using a matching thread. Set your machine to a strait stitch. Length 2.5. You will be top stitching 1/8 inch from the inner fold of the binding using. You can adjust the needle to the left so you can use the edge of the presser foot as a guide or place a piece of masking tape for a guide.

More important is to keep the stitch at that 1/8 inch mark. Take your time. Before you start sewing. Bring the needle down by turning the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you so you can sew exactly where the needle is on your binding. Make adjustments as needed.

5- SEWING THE BINDING: Sewing Machine Method

Thread your machine and load your bobbin using a matching thread. Set your machine to a strait stitch. Length 2.5. You will be top stitching 1/8 inch from the inner fold of the binding using. You can adjust the needle to the left so you can use the edge of the presser foot as a guide or place a piece of masking tape for a guide.

More important is to keep the stitch at that 1/8 inch mark. Take your time. Before you start sewing. Bring the needle down by turning the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you so you can sew exactly where the needle is on your binding. Make adjustments as needed.

And you can take your, you can take your hand wheel and turn it toward you so you can see where that needle is going to come down. And I might need to go to the right just a little bit.

It helps to place your machine on the right side of the table so you have something to support your quilt while you sew. If you don’t have a big table, you may want to get a chair or something else to support the quilt.

To keep the thread underneath from leaving a thread nest, hold onto the bobbin thread for the first couple of stitches and then let it go. This works like a charm. Who wants those bunched-up threads on the back side of your quilt? Not me.

I like folding and clipping a short portion as I go, or you can clip the whole quilt before you sew. Keep a little cup or your pin cushion close by to put your clips in as you remove them from your quilt.

Fold the corners as shown in method one. When you come to a corner, leave the needle down, lift up the presser foot and pivot the quilt and continue to sew. You will come back and hand-sew the mitered corners in place as shown above.

6- ADDING A LABEL OR TAG ( optional)

If I’m making a quilt as a gift, I always put a little heart or something on the backside.

I have available some fun editable PDF labels that you can download, edit and print. Editable files, and several sheets of love labels.

This is a tag that I made and printed onto this ribbon. LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR LABELS HERE.

I hope you can see that making a quilt is not that big of a deal. If you’ve never made a quilt before or if you have never sewn before, this is a good little project. You can start out with a small blanket and then work your way up to something bigger.

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Upcycling Is Hip | 5 Innovative Ways To Recycle Items Around Your House

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Upcycled Denim Patchwork Quilt

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beginner sewing project quilt binding quilting Sewing

How To Make an Envelope Pillow Cover / Simple Sewing

Is it time to switch out some of your throw pillows? Making your envelope pillow cover is a great way to add a new pop of color to your couch or bed.

It’s a super simple sewing project and it only takes about a ½ yard of fabric.

There are so many ways to embellish these envelope pillow covers.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make a basic envelope pillow cover and some different ways to customize it.

These pillow covers can be made in any size.

What type of fabric works well for an envelope pillow cover?

You can use all the same fabric or mix it up with several different prints or colors of fabric.

Quilters cotton
Upholstery fabric
Corduroy
Upcycled sweaters
Cotton knit
Denim
Fleece
Cotton blends

Embellishment Ideas

Pom pom trim
Piping
Embroidery panel
Buttons
Applique

Materials & Items Needed – Envelope Pillow Cover

Fabric (½ yard)
Pillow form or an existing pillow (you can buy pillow forms in fabric stores, variety stores, and online)
Sewing machine
Scissors/rotary cutter, cutting mat (optional)
Pinking Shears (optional)
Pins or sewing clips
Measuring tape
Seam gauge or HOT HEMMER
Iron
Turning stick/point turner
Optional trim (pom poms)

Envelope Pillow Cover Instructions

Cutting Out

FRONT PIECE MEASUREMENT

The first thing to do is to measure the pillow you are making the cover for.

Measure from the side seam over to the other side seam. Add 1 inch to that measurement and write it down. THIS WILL BE THE MEASUREMENT OF THE FRONT FABRIC PIECE.

Example: pillow form measures 16”x 16” + 1 inch = 17”. Cut out front piece 17” x 17”

BACK PIECE MEASUREMENT

Example: Take the measurement for the FRONT PIECE 17” and divide that by 2 = 8.5” + 2.5 inches = 11 inches. CUT TWO BACK PIECES 17” X 11”.

This is the time to embellish the front of the pillow with embroidery and appliqué or to add trim to the sides.

In the photo above, I used a dishtowel with embroidery. A friend of mine gave this to me as a dishcloth, and I loved it so much that I didn’t want it to get stained in the kitchen.

So I cut strips of the back fabric and sewed them around the edge of the panel. I thought it turned out pretty cute.

So there are no limits regarding what you can do with your envelope pillow cover.

SEWING ENVELOPE PILLOW COVER

1- Hem the back envelope opening edges by folding the edge over ½ inch.

Press a crease at that point. Now fold the edge over to the crease you made to make a rolled hem and press in place.

You will have a ¼ inch hem—pin or clip in place.

2- Topstitch the hem using a straight stitch, length at 3.

Do this for both back pieces.

3- Place the front piece on the table with the RIGHT SIDE FACING UP.

Take one of the back pieces and place it RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN on top of the front piece with the hemmed edge in the center.

Place the other back piece RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN on top of the other pieces, with the hemmed edge overlapping the other back piece and raw edges even.

Pin or clip in place.

4- Sew all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance and the stitch length at 2.5.

5 – Finish the seam by using a zigzag stitch, serger, or pinking shears, so the seam allowance will not fray.

6 – Clip corners and turn RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT.

Poke corners out using a turning stick or point turner. Roll edges out and press.

Tad-ah, insert your pillow form and you are good to go. Now wasn’t that simple!

How to Add Trim or Piping To Envelope Pillow Cover

1- Starting in the middle of the bottom front piece, place the trim onto the pillow edges with the top of the trim facing outward.

When you come to the corners, just slightly round the corner with the trim. Pin or clip in place.

2- Baste the trim in place.

Sew around the trim using a basting stitch with the length at 4. (Use a 3/8 inch seam allowance)

***You may want to use your zipper foot to apply trim. Now, place the back pieces onto the pillow front.

Follow steps 3-5 above.

When adding piping or trim, using a zipper foot with the needle adjusted to the left is helpful if needed. (If you have a WALKING FOOT, use it).

If your machine doesn’t have a walking foot, you can order one that fits your model.

They are nice to have, and I use mine all the time.

If you want to add a button to the opening for looks or because you want to reinforce the opening, you can do that like I have with this pillow.

Simply sew a buttonhole and sew on a button.

Border Edge Envelope Pillow Cover

This method allows you to create a small border around the edge of your pillow cover.

1- Measure your pillow form and add 2 inches instead of one.

This will give you a 1/2-inch border around the pillow.

It’s a slightly more formal look, but it works out nicely.

2- Follow the instructions for the regular pillow cover.

3- After you have flipped the cover right side facing out and pressed the edges. Topstitch using that more extended length of 3 around the pillow edge, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Of course, you can make this border wider if you want; just adjust the width when you cut out the pieces.

I hope you enjoy making these as much as I do.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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beginner sewing project free sewing pattern pillow

How To Make a Fabric Bag // Beginner Sewing Tutorial

Oh boy do I have a fun beginner sewing project for you. I’m going to show you how to make a fabric bag. They are so fun and quick to sew and you can use them for so many things.

If you’re new to sewing, this is a great beginner sewing project.

These fabric bags can be made in any size. They make adorable gift bags, or you can use them to store almost anything.

I’m going to make up a bunch of medium-sized bags out of muslin to store my onions and garlic and put them in my pantry.

One year I made up a bunch of bags and filled them with navel oranges.

The little bags work well for candy treats or items you want to keep together.

Materials & Items Needed

sewing machine
some fabrics (quilters cotton, flannel, canvas, muslin, and even sheer and knit fabrics can be used)
scissors/rotary cutter mat (optional)
pins/wonder clips (optional)
measuring tape/Hot hemmer/seam gauge
iron
pencil or disappearing ink pen
turning stick, or the eraser end of a pencil
seam ripper
drawstring (upcycled t-shirt yarn, ribbon, bakers twine, jute, seam tape, recycled drawstrings from upcycled clothing)
optional embellishments (applique, whatever else you want to put on the bag)
optional tag/label
Wonder Under (optional)

Fabric Bag Instructions

Cutting Out

You can make these any size but some recommended basic sizes are:

Finished Size:

4.5 x 5.25” / 11.5 x 13 cm
8 x 9” / 21 x 23 cm
13 x 12 25 inches (33 x 31cm) finished

I like cutting my fabric, especially squares and straight cuts with a rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, but you can always use regular scissors if you want to.

1- Decide how big you want the bag to be.

Seam allowance is ¼ – 3/8 inch and you’ll be folding the top of the bag down 1 ¼ inch to make a casing. You can make this casing larger or smaller if you wish.

For a medium-sized bag with a finished size of 8 x 9 inches (23 x 28 cm), you’ll cut a piece of fabric 9 x 11 inches (23 x 28cm).

Small bag: cut fabric 5.5 x 7.25 inches.

Large bag: cut fabric 14 x 14.25 inches.

2- Pre-pressing

Taking the time to pre-press your casing will save time and frustration. I LOVE using this Hot Hemmer. It makes hemming and pressing so much easier. I would definitely recommend investing in this little gadget and adding it to your sewing tool collection.

Fold the top edge under a ¼ inch and press all the way across. Do that on both pieces. Then fold over again 1 inch and press.

Unfold the hem you just pressed and place the right sides lining up the edges and the creases you just made.

Sew along the side, across the bottom, and back up the other side using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, or just the edge of your presser foot to make it easy. Backstitch at the beginning and the end of your stitching.

3- Fabric Bag Drawstring Casing

Measure down 2.5 inches from the top edge and mark that point on both sides.

4- Finishing the seam allowance.

You are going to want to finish the seams so the fabric does not fray. There are several methods you can use or you can cut the fabric with pinking shears. However, a simple zigzag stitch works great.

Zigzag stitch settings: Width 4 / Length 2

Start at that 2 ½ inch point you just marked and start sewing all the way around, with the right edge of the zigzag close to the fabric edge.

Open up the bag so that you can finger-press the seam allowance open where you didn’t finish the seam. You can use an iron if you want but I find a good finger press is sufficient. Press down firmly and slide your finger down and that will press it open.

To reinforce the drawstring opening, sew around the unfinished seam making a little box area. Sew about 1/8 inch from the center seam.

Now, this is where that pre-pressing comes in handy! Fold the top of the fabric bag down where you pressed, ¼ inch and then 1 inch. Pin it in place.

Topstitch all the way around about 1/8 inch from the edge of that fold. If you have a sewing machine where you can remove the arm piece so you can slide your bag around the arm of the sewing machine.

However, if you don’t have that option, turn the fabric bag RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and sew inside the tube. (I hope that makes sense).

Janni Tip: Here is a great tip so that you don’t get those little bunched-up threads on the underside of your fabric where you start sewing: When you start sewing, grab the needle and bobbin threads and hold them for the first couple of stitches then let go. There isn’t anything functionally wrong with the bunched-up threads, it’s just not very attractive.

Flip it right side facing out and take your turning stick and poke out the corners.

To reinforce the top of the drawstring holes, take a few stitches about 1/8 inch from the top and only about an inch long.

This is where you’ll need the seam ripper. Pull the seam apart where you reinforced the hole so that you can see the stitches and just grab one of the stitches and cut it. Make sure you’re not cutting the fabric.

Start pulling the threads and cut as needed with the seam ripper to open that section up. Don’t worry, the seam will not come undone further than that because you have reinforced the seam.

5 – Drawstring Application

Measure out your drawstring material: take the width of the bag and double that, then add 4 inches. For this 9 x 11 inch bag, I’m going to cut two strips 25 inches.

Attach the safety pin to the end of the twine. If the twine or string you are using has ends that will fray, make a knot on the end before attaching the safety pin.

That’s it! Pull the drawstrings and see how nicely it cinches together. Yay!

Fabric Bag Embellishments

You can embellish the bag with a tag, or an applique.

I have added a cute star and some flowers using “Wonder Under” fabric adhesive. This is great stuff. Stay tuned for a tutorial on how to use it.

DIY VALENTINE'S DAY — Gift Bag Flowers from flannel fabric

Fabric Gift Bag Idea

I made some PJ pants and bought a t-shirt to match, then added a cute flower applique that I made from the fabric I used for the pants. Put them in a bag with matching applique and there you have an adorable, homemade gift bag. So cute.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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beginner sewing project fabric bags free sewing patttern

How To Make A Pillowcase With A Cuff // Easy Burrito Method

Making a pillowcase is a fun and simple beginner sewing project, and in this tutorial, I will show you how to add a contrasting cuff using the burrito method. It only requires a yard of fabric and about 15 minutes to make.

I’ll show you how to make them using a sewing machine, and a serger, and how to sew a French seam if you choose. You can also add a small strip of trim if you want and I’ll show you how easy it is to do that.

I have a FREE printable PDF guide showing the fabric measurements for a STANDARD, QUEEN, AND KING-size pillowcase. A standard pillowcase only requires one yard of fabric.

GET THE PDF HERE

Child’s Travel Pillowcase Measurements

These measurements are for creating a pillowcase that fits a standard child-size travel pillow. (typically around 12″ x 16″ / 30.5 cm x 40.5 cm).

Use these fabric cuts if you’re making a burrito-style pillowcase:

Main Body: 27″ x 17″ (68.5 cm x 43 cm)
Cuff: 9″ x 17″ (23 cm x 43 cm)
Accent Strip (optional): 2″ x 17″ (5 cm x 43 cm)

These measurements allow for standard seam allowances and create a snug fit for the travel pillow.
Tip: Add 1-2″ to the width and/or length if a looser fit is preferred.

PILLOWCASE MATERIALS & ITEMS NEEDED

Fabric (flannel or quilters cotton)
Sewing machine (serger optional)
Sewing machine needle size (Universal 90/14)
Scissors (Rotary Cutter & Mat optional)
Pins/Wonder fabric clips
Seam gauge/ measuring tape
Iron/Ironing board
Label/Tag (optional)

Standard Pillowcase Instructions

When you buy cotton and flannel fabric from the store, the width that it comes on the bolt varies from 43-44 inches. The first measurement on the cutting guide shows 44 inches x whatever. That is the width (cut edge) of the fabric, not the selvage edge. So it may be 43-44 inches.

Don’t worry about that because I’m going to simplify the process by cutting off the excess in one of the steps that will save you some time. So just cut those pieces out as indicated in the photo.

TIP: Before cutting the pillowcase pieces, make sure you are starting out with a STRAIGHT EDGE. The video tutorial gives some good tips on how to do this and why it is important!

*****If you’re using a directional print fabric (images are facing one direction), you’ll need to cut it out differently. Check out the video tutorial on how to do that.

CUTTING OUT PILLOWCASE FABRIC PIECES

Main Fabric – cut 1 piece 44 x 28 inches / 111.5 x 71 cm
Cuff Fabric – cut 1 piece 44 x 9 inches / 111.5 x 23 cm
Narrow Trim (optional) – cut 1 piece 44 x 2 inches / 111.5 x 5 cm

FABRIC PREP

1- If you are applying the trim, fold the trim piece in half horizontally with Wrong Sides Together (WST) and press to form a crease. Set that aside.

2- Place the CUFF PIECE right side facing up.

3- Take the pillowcase MAIN PIECE and place it on top of the CUFF PIECE RIGHT right side facing up. Line up the edges. **Don’t worry if the side edges don’t line up. We’ll trim those off so they’re even in just a bit.

4- If you are applying trim, add that to the pile with the RAW EDGES lined up with the edges of the cuff and main piece. Pin or clip in place.

5- Take the top edge of the MAIN PIECE, and start making a little jellyroll towards the cuff.

6- Continue to roll until it is in the middle of the cuff.

7- Fold the other edge of the cuff over the jellyroll and line up that edge with the others.

8- Pin or clip all those edges together using pins or clips.

SEWING THE PILLOWCASE CUFF

1- Take the roll to the sewing machine or serger and sew along the pinned edge using a 1/2” seam allowance.

2- THIS IS WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS! Grab a piece of the jellyroll from one of the ends and start pulling it out and continue until all the innards are pulled out.

3- Unroll the fabric and wallah, you have a beautiful ENCLOSED SEAM.

4- Flatten the fabric out and press the cuff so the seams are pulled out completely.

5- Fold the pillowcase in half with the WRONG SIDE FACING OUT (sewing machine & serger method or RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT (burrito method).

Line up cuff, trim, and fabric edges.

Measure 20.5 inches from the fold for the regular seam method and 21 inches from the fold. Cut off all the excess fabric.

PILLOWCASE SEAMS

There are three different methods to finish the seams on this pillowcase.

Sewing machine
Serger
French seams

Sewing Machine Method

1- Sew along the side and top of the pillowcase using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the corners.

2- Finish off the seam by sewing a simple zigzag stitch along the edges so it will not fray. There are other stitches you can use to finish the seams. WATCH THE TUTORIAL HERE.

ZIGZAG STITCH SETTING AT 4 wide, 3 length.

3- Turn the right side facing out and give it a good pressing.

Serger Method

1- Simply sew along the edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. ***For some helpful tips on how to start and end serged seams watch the video tutorial.

2- Turn right side facing out and press.

PILLOWCASE FRENCH SEAM INSTRUCTIONS

1- With the right side of the fabric facing out, you are going to make the first seam using a ¼ inch SEAM ALLOWANCE. I know this may seem wrong, but trust me.

Make sure the cuff edges and trim are lined up.

How To Add A Tag or Label To The Pillowcase

If you want to add a tag or label, this is the time to do it. If not, skip to the next step.

Locate where you want to add the tag and baste it in place with the sewing machine 1/4 inch from the edge. Place the tag so the folded edge of the tag is outside the pillowcase edge as shown in the picture. **Make sure you allow space for the seam. The tag needs to stick out after sewing both seams. So find where the ¼ seam would be then account for the next 3/8 inch seam and see how the tag will be exposed and adjust accordingly. (I hope that makes sense). The video tutorial will show how it is done.

2- After sewing the first pass with the ¼ inch seam. Cut any strings stray threads from the cut edge. Turn the pillowcase WRONG SIDE FACING OUT and press out the edges.

3- Now take it back to the sewing machine and sew another pass USING A 3/8 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE.

4- Turn the pillowcase RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and give it a final pressing.

Tadah! Now wasn’t that simple. Look at the tidy, professional French seam.

These pillowcase burritos make such fun gifts! Grab a yard of fabric and have fun sewing!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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beginner sewing project burrito method French seam pillowcase Sewing

How To Make a Fleece Neck Warmer | Free Pattern

When it comes to cold weather, you gotta have something to keep your neck warm. This fleece neck warmer is the BEST, and it’s very easy to make! A double layer of cozy fleece fits comfortably around your neck keeping the cold air out.

You can make it any size. I have measurements for a child, youth, adult, and x-large adult. It is a quick and easy sewing project. You can easily have a neck warmer sewn up in ten minutes. It can be made reversible with two different colors of fleece. I will show you how to make both options.

Neck Warmer Materials & Items Needed

Fleece (19-21 inches square)
Scissors/rotary cutter (optional)
Fabric clips/pins
Sewing machine/serger (optional)
Safety pin
Tag (optional)

Neck Warmer Instructions

1-Cutting Out

Measure your head and use the chart above to determine the cutting measurements. I like using a rotary cutter and mat to cut fleece. It helps get a straight cut and is a lot quicker. However, a pair of scissors will work just fine.

REVERSIBLE NECK WARMER:

Cut out two pieces to the measurements given in the chart with the LONG SIDE ON THE STRETCH.

2-Sewing

VERY IMPORTANT! Fleece fabric has some stretch to it and will be more stretchy from selvage edge to selvage edge. (The finished edge of the fabric is the selvage edge).

2-Determine which edge is the “stretchy side” and mark with a safety pin.

This is critical because if you sew it with the stretch on the wrong side, you won’t be able to get the warmer over your head.

3-Fold in half so the STRETCHY SIDE is along the long edge.

You can sew this neck warmer using a regular sewing machine or a serger. A serger is very nice if you have access to one, but not necessary.

You can also hand stitch the whole thing. I have a tutorial showing you how to sew a STRETCH STITCH WITH A NEEDLE AND THREAD.

***If using a regular sewing machine set the stitch to a small zigzag stitch (1 1/2 width x 1 length) or the lightning bolt stitch. IF YOU JUST USE A REGULAR STRAIGHT STITCH, THE SEAM WILL POP WHEN THE FABRIC IS STRETCHED. (Watch the video for a demonstration of what happens if you don’t use a stretch stitch). A serger stitch allows stretching.

4-Sew seam

USING A 3/8 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE, pin or clip in place and sew from the edge to edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam if using a single needle machine.

5-Turn right side facing out.

Fold the tube in on itself so RIGHT SIDES ARE FACING EACH OTHER. Line up the seam and pin in place.

You will be leaving an opening UNSEWN about 3-4 inches.

TIP: I like to use different colors of pins (red) or clips to mark the opening, so I don’t forget and sew all the way around.

If you want to add a tag to the back neck seam, insert the tag between the layers of fabric and baste in place before sewing the seam. (video tutorial shows how to do this).

Start at one of the RED CLIPS, backstitch, and sew around to the other red clip. Backstitch.

LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CUSTOM LABELS HERE

6-Reach your hand inside the opening you left and turn it right side facing out.

7-Sew the opening closed.

Fold the seam allowance inside and pin it in place. You can sew the opening closed with a sewing machine using a small 1/8 inch seam allowance, or hand sew using a ladder stitch.

8- REVERSIBLE NECK WARMER

Place pieces (RST) and sew along the long sides.

5- Follow instructions 3 & 4.

Tadah!

Now wasn’t that a simple little project. These make great gifts.

Be sure to check out my other fleece tutorials showing you how to make a fleece headband ear warmers and fingerless mittens.

YOU MAY ALSO BE INTERESTED IN THIS VIDEO.

Sewing With Fleece | My Top 10 Tips & Tricks

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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accessories beginner sewing project fleece free sewing pattern Neck warmer sewing pattern sewing video

DIY Baby Bib Tutorial | Reversible

Sewing for babies is the best thing ever. This reversible baby bib is a fun and quick little project that is great for even a beginner seamstress. You can apply snaps or Velcro and it has an optional food pocket.

You can use two different contrasting fabrics, or use the same fabric for both sides. The baby bib can be made with several types of fabric: flannel, terry cloth, quilting cotton, sturdy knit fabrics, or laminate cloth.

These make the best baby gifts! Combine a few bibs with some burp cloths, a mitered corner baby blanket, and a bottle of yummy smelling baby lotion and you’ve got an adorable baby gift, a gift that is made from the heart.

Be sure to check out my other baby tutorials.

Baby Bib Materials and Items Needed

FABRIC (flannel, terry cloth, quilting cotton, knit, or PULL laminate cloth) approximately ½ yard/49 cm
PDF Pattern
Sewing machine
Snaps (3 sets)
Fabric Clips/Pins
Scissors
Iron
Turning stick
Label/tag (optional)

Baby Bib Fabric Choices & Requirements

Bibs can be made using several types of fabrics; flannel, terry cloth, quilting cotton, knit, and Pull laminate finished cloth (used for diapers).

You can make the baby bib reversible and you can use two different prints or colors.

Baby Bib Pattern Assembly

Due to the large size of the pattern, you will need to assemble the pattern first.

Simply fold or cut the dotted line on pattern piece 2 and place it on top of and on the dotted line on piece 1 where indicated.

Tape in place and cut out the chosen size.

There is a size for infants, toddlers, children, or a small teething bib.

*YOU CAN MAKE THE PATTERN SMALLER OR LARGER. I give you specific instructions in the video on how to easily do that.

Cutting Out

Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise with selvage edges (the finished edge of fabric) parallel to the fold.

Place the pattern piece so the grain arrow is parallel to the selvage edge.

Cut out 2 bibs on the fold. You can double fold and cut all 4 pieces at once if you are using the same fabric for the front and back.

FOOD POCKET (optional)

Cut out a piece of fabric approximately 8 x 12 inches. Fold the fabric in half crosswise and then fold in half again lengthwise.

Place the food pocket pattern along folds where indicated. Cut out one.

Sewing Baby Bib

If applying a FOOD POCKET, fold the pocket fabric piece in half lengthwise.

* Adding a tag along the pocket top is a cute addition, but optional. Or you can add a tag in the seam somewhere.

Place the folded pocket on top of one of the bib pieces right side facing up. Align the edges and clip in place.

Baste in place using a ½ seam allowance and a long basting stitch. Do not backstitch.

Place the other bib piece right side facing down on top of the other bib piece. Line up edges and clip or pin in place.

You will be leaving about 4 inches unsewn on one of the sides of the bib. (This will allow you to turn the bib inside out).

Starting on one side, sew all the way around using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Clip outer curves with V notches and inner curves with little slits.

Using a turning stick, poke out the curves and edges.

REMOVE BASTING STITCHES FROM FOOD POCKET

Close the opening you left open by folding the edges in to match seam allowance. Press and clip in place.

Topstitch all the way around using a 1/8 – ¼ inch seam allowance.

Baby Bib Snap Application

You can use KAM snaps, which is what I prefer and use. Or you can use sew-in snaps or even Velcro.

Place the pattern on top of the bib, lining up curves. (Notice: you will be placing two snaps on one side of the bib and only one on the other. This will allow you to adjust the neck size).

Using the awl, that comes with the snap kit, poke the holes where indicated to mark the snap points.

Follow product instructions for the snap or Velcro application.

Tadah!

Here are some other baby projects you may be interested in:

BABY BEANIE HATS

DIY MITERING CORNER BABY BLANKETS

SEWING WITH PLUSH FABRICS

DIY FABRIC LABELS

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Watch the Video Tutorial

Supplies Needed

How to Make a Finger Pincushion

Step 1: Cut Out the Fabric

Step 2: Prepare the Lid and Finger Ring

Step 3: Sew the Pincushion

Step 4: Sew on the Button

That’s It!

Finger Pincushion vs. Wrist Pincushion

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of fabric works best?

Can I use something besides a plastic lid?

Can beginners make this project?

Does the elastic adjust?

Get the Printable Pattern

OTHER POSTS YOU MAY FIND HELPFUL

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Supplies You’ll Need

Pillowcase Measurements

Standard Pillowcase:

Queen Pillowcase:

King Pillowcase:

Click on the link below to get the free pillowcase cutting guide.

Preparing Your Fabric

Pre-Fold the Cuff

Method 1: French Seam Pillowcase

Step 1 – Sew First Seam

Step 2 – Turn & Press

Step 3 – Sew Second Seam

Step 4 – Finish the Cuff

Method 2: Serger Pillowcase

Step 1 – Pre-Fold Cuff

Step 2 – Sew Side Seam

Serger Corner Tip

Step 3 – Enclose the Cuff Seam

Step 4 – Topstitch

Finished Pillowcase

Beginner Sewing Tips

Learn how to make your own custom tags/labels – HERE

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Why You’ll Love Making This Tote Bag

Supplies You’ll Need

Cutting Out Tote Bag

Step 1: Prep Your Fabric

Step 2: Sew the Straps

Step 3: Assemble the Bag (French Seam Method)

Step 4: Hem the Top

Step 5: Top Stitch and Secure the Straps

Step 6 : Assemble the Bag (Serger Method)

Step 7: Hem The Top Edge (Serger Method)

Want to make them even more versatile?

Add a boxed bottom to give your tote extra room.

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✂️ Supplies You’ll Need

🧵 Wristlet Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prep the Webbing

2. Cut and Press the Fabric Strip

3. Attach Fabric to Webbing

4. Apply the Key Fob Clamp To The Wristlet

💡 Tips & Tricks

Other DIY Projects You May Be Interested In

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