How To Make an Eyeglass Case | Sunglass Case | Quick and Simple Project

DIY FABRIC SUNGLASS CASE

In this blog post, I show you how to make a super cute eyeglass and sunglass case. These cases are quite simple to make and require just a little bit of fabric making them a great project to use up your fabric scrap.

This is a beginner sewing project that is fun and quite addicting. I dare you to make just one.

Eyeglass Case Materials and Supplies Needed

  • Sewing machine
  • Fabric: Solid pieces, prints, or scraps sewn together
  • Rotary cutter (or scissors if you don’t have a rotary cutter)
  • Fabric scissors
  • Fabric clips (or straight pins)
  • Writing device: Pen or pencil
  • Turning stick (or point turner)
  • Universal needle: Size 80 or 90
  • Fabric stabilizer: Soft and stable, cotton batting or flannel
  • Seam ripper
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Labels (optional for a custom touch)
SUNGLASS CASE

Eyeglass Case Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric

Cutting Out

  • Outside piece: 7 by 7.5 inches.
  • Lining piece: 7 by 9.75 inches.
  • Stabilizer: 7 by 7 inches.

Step 2: Assemble the Case

Measure and Mark

  • Measure one inch down on the stabilizer for a seam allowance line.
  • Place the lining piece right side up and the outside piece right side down, and align the 7-inch ends together.
  • Place the stabilizer on top and clip everything in place.
SUNGLASS CASE

 Sew the Top Seam:

  • Using a straight stitch, sew along the drawn line. (No need to backstitch).
  • Press the Seam
  • Open the sewn pieces and press the seam with an iron.
SUNGLASS CASE LABEL

Step 3: Add a Label (Optional)

Insert Label

  • Fold the label in half with the raw edges facing outward.
  • Baste the label in place. (This will be worth the time taken, trust me).

LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN LABELS HERE.

  • Open up the pieces of fabric and give the seam edge a good press.
  • Then, fold the lining over so the wrong sides are facing each other. 
  • Line up the side and bottom edges. Press the top fold.
SUNGLASS CASE

Step 4: Sew the Edges

  • Fold the panel in half horizontally, lining up seam and binding.
  • Pin or clip in place.
  • Using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, sew around the panel leaving about a 3 inch gap unsewn for turning.
  • Start sewing from the lining side, backstitching at the start and end, and leave the 3-inch gap unsewn.sunglass case
  • Clip the corners without cutting into the seam.

***TIP: Fold and press the opening seam allowances before turning. This will make it a lot easier.

sunglass case

Step 5: Turn

  • Turn the case right side out through the 3-inch gap.
  • Use a turning stick to poke out the corners and ensure the foam lays flat.
sunglass case

Step 6: Sewing Opening Closed

  • Press the outer fabric edges and corners, taking care not to let the iron touch your label.
  • Fold the pre-pressed seam allowance inside and line up the folded edges.
  • Clip in place.
  • Topstitch along the edge to close the opening.
sunglass case

Step 7: Final Touches

  • Insert the lining into the sunglass case.sunglass case pressing
  • Press the top edge for a neat finish.
sunglass case finished

Imagine all the fun color combinations you can use.

You can even add a snap if you want, but I’ve found that the case holds snugly without one.

Enjoy your new, custom-made eyeglass or sunglass case!

diy sunglass case styles

You can also make the outer panels using two other methods: sew-as-you-go fabric strip quilting and scrappy fabric panels.

The sunglass case video below will show these methods.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Related Posts

DIY Garden Apron / Made From Recycled Jeans / Quick and Simple Project

DIY recycled jeans garaden apron

This DIY garden apron is a quick and simple project made from upcycled jeans. The apron is handy for working in the garden, around the house, and even as a vendor’s apron.

recycled jeans garden apron

As some of you know, I LOVE to recycle, especially a pair of jeans.

There are so many fun things you can make with denim. At the end of the post, I’ll give you some other project ideas where you can use a pair of recycled jeans.

You can get fancy and edge the bottom of the apron with bias tape, which is really easy to do, or you can just leave it and finish the edge with a serger or even just use a little fray check.

recycled jeans garden apron

Garden Apron Materials & Items Needed

Here are the items and things that you’ll need for the project.

  • 10 inches of (3/8 – ½ inch) Elastic
  • Pair of jeans
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Fabric clips/pins
  • Double fold bias tape (optional) approximately 2 yards
  • Sewing machine or needle and thread
  • Fray Check (optional)
bias tape diy

If you want to make your own bias tape that has prints or different colors, I have a tutorial showing you how to do that.

When you make your bias tape, you can use fun, colorful prints you’ll never see in a fabric store.

Garden Apron Instructions

1- Take your jeans and cut off the pant legs.

Cut straight across just below the crotch seam. ***** If your pants have a front pocket hanging lower than the cut, fold the pocket so you don’t cut it.

After cutting off one pant leg, fold the pants in half and use the cut leg as a template.

Don’t worry too much about straightening the edges; you’ll line that up later.

upcycled jeans garden apronDON’T THROW AWAY THE JEAN LEGS! Please put them in a tote with all your other jeans scraps for OTHER FUN PROJECTS.

2- Cut out a section of the front pants just below the waistband.

On that left side, take your scissors and cut across just below the waistband, not into the waistband, but over about two inches, and then cut straight down towards the edge of the pant leg.

3- On the zipper side, you’ll cut away the extra fabric around the zipper.

Take your scissors and cut around that area so it looks like this.

4- To square off the bottom of the apron

Fold the pants in half and cut a parallel line straight across, leaving the length as long as possible.

Make sure you don’t cut into the pocket. Fold it up out of the way while you make the cut.

5- Finishing the garden apron bottom:

Open up the apron at the center back seam. There tends to be a little triangle piece of fabric that may stick out; just cut that off.

I like to round the corners, especially using bias tape. You can also leave it square if you want.

recycled jeans garden apron

Cut a curved rounded edge on one corner, then fold it over and use that as a template to cut the other side.

6- Pinning the bias tape:

Place the apron wrong side, facing up. Open up the bias tape, and smooth it out.

Fold the top edge of the bias tape over about a half inch, and then apply the RIGHT SIDE of the bias tape with the fold just below the zipper tab and clip it in place. I LOVE THESE LITTLE FABRIC CLIPS.

You can use the clips or pins to apply the bias tape all the way around, or can just apply the tape and sew as you go.

Do not cut the bias tape to length quite yet. You’ll do that in just a minute to make sure that you get an accurate fit. (It’s not a good thing if you cut it and then find out you cut it short).

When you get to the other side, measure just below the waistband then ADD 3 inches in length just to be safe and give you some wiggle room.

garden apron bias tape sewing

7- GARDEN APRON Bias Tape Application

Using a straight stitch, go to the sewing machine, and sew the bias tape to the apron.

Bring the needle down just to the RIGHT of the crease in the bias tape. Don’t sew in the crease.

That’ll give you a little more playroom with your bias tape when you fold it around all the fabric. The beautiful thing about bias tape is it’ will curve and work well around the curved edges.

Backstitch and sew all the way around. TAKE YOUR TIME, especially around the corners, stopping and starting as you need.

And if you mess up, go ahead and use your seam ripper and undo that portion that didn’t work out too well and adjust and re-sew.

Bias tape is really fun to work with. It may seem a little intimidating, but it’s really fun once you get used to it.

Adding bias tape adds character to your projects, especially if you have some fun prints to work with.

garaden apron

When you start to get a little closer to the other end, you can leave your needle down and then cut the bias tape to the length that you need.

Fold it over again ½ inch, and then cut it off there, make sure that that fold is just below the waistband. Finish and back stitch.

8- Top Stitch Bias Tape

Flip it over and topstitch. Use a regular straight stitch. When top stitching, I increase the length of the stitch to a 3. It gives a better-looking topstitch.

Fold the folded edge of the bias tape over the previous stitching so it covers that, and sew along the edge., just inside the fold of the bias tape. (about 1/8 inch from the left side. Make sure to catch the edge.

Take your time around the corners, and then when you get to the other side, top stitch over that folded edge.

9- Garden Apron Pockets

Let me show you what to do with the pockets if they are too long.

Not all pockets are going to be this long. Take the pocket and see how much you need to cut off so it doesn’t hang lower than the bottom of the apron.

Take your scissors and cut a curve angling off to match the side of the pocket. Sew a regular straight seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

Finish off the edge using a big zigzag stitch. This will keep the pocket from fraying.

Do that with both pockets.

10- Garden Apron Closure

Let me show you how to apply the elastic to the waistband.

I recommend trying on the apron and seeing how long you need to make the elastic.

Once you have the length, take the elastic, fold it in half, line up the edges of the elastic, and stick it through from the front to the back with the edges lined up.

Secure it in place and sew along the edges of the elastic using a big zigzag stitch. I like to go back and forth a few times to ensure it is secure.

So that’s all there is to it. Grab a pair of jeans, some elastic, your garden tools, and whatever else you need to shove in a pocket in the garden, and have fun sewing!

 

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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2 Easy Ways To Bind a Quilt Using the Backing Fabric

quilt bindting

 Making a quilt can seem a little intimidating, especially if you’re new to sewing, but it’s actually really quite simple. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to bind the quilt using the backing fabric.

There are 2 easy methods that I am going to show you: hand sewing and using the sewing machine. I’m also going to show you how to add a label or tag to your quilt if you want to.

Using the backing fabric is one of my favorite ways to bind a quilt. It’s really easy, and you can use this method for any quilt that you make. If you haven’t watched my other tutorials in the quilting series, you can find them here.

quilt binding materials & supplies

Materials & Items Needed

quilt binding material and supplies

Quilt Binding: Method One

Squaring Up the Quilt

One of the first things that you’ll want to do is to square up your quilt. Now, it doesn’t have to be perfect. There’s been a lot going on with the quilt up to this point. You’ve pieced several pieces of fabric together, tied or quilted the quilt, and so there could be a lot of shifting going on. The edges are not going to be even. No WORRIES.

 

1- GET RID OF EXCESS BATTING

The first thing you’re going to do is get rid of that excess batting. Take your scissors and cut the excess batting along all edges of the quilt, making sure that you’re not cutting that backing fabric.

Of course, the smaller the blanket, the easier this process will be. Place the quilt on a big table, and if you don’t have a big table, you can put the blanket on the floor.

2- MARKING AND CUTTING THE QUILT TOP

The binding needs to be cut so it measures at least one inch. You may need to cut some off the backing or cut some of the quilt top down, so you have a straight line and that one-inch border.

Grab your rotary cutter ruler and or measuring tape. Take the chalk pen and mark it on the quilt top or the backing fabric where you need to cut. It helps to use the cutting ruler to get a straight edge.

Remember it doesn’t have to be perfect. Do this on all sides of the quilt.

*** Before you do any cutting, you’ll want to pull the backing fabric under so you don’t accidentally cut it. To do this, take the safety pins and pin the backing fabric so it’s out of the way. Pin and trim one side of the backing fabric at a time.

I love using these BIG QUILTING SAFETY PINS. However, you can use regular safety pins if you want. Using the ruler, line up the chalk-marking sand and cut off the excess fabric where needed. This is where the ruler and the rotary cutter comes in handy. Repeat this process on all sides of the quilt

After you have squared up the quilt and left a one-inch boarder, It’s time to pin everything in place.

binding backing

3- FOLDING AND PINNING THE BINDING IN PLACE

clipping the bindingGrab a bunch of sewing clips or pins and start in one of the corners of the quilt. Fold the cut edge of the binding to the edge of the top piece and then fold it again. Clip in place.

Let me show you how to make mitered corners. Take the extended rolled binding in the corner and fold it so it makes a little triangle and the folded edge is along the edge of the top piece as shown in the photo above.

quilt binding cornersNow fold the binding just like you did, and it will make a mitered corner. You’ll come back a little later to hand-sew those corners in place. Clip in place.

There are two ways that you can sew this. You can use a needle and thread, or you can use the sewing machine.

quilt binding

4- SEWING THE BINDING: Needle & Thread Method

The first method of sewing on the binding, I’m going to show you with a needle in the thread. This is one of my favorite ways to bind a quilt.

I find it quite relaxing and enjoyable, even though it takes a little longer. You can place the quilt on your lap, turn on a good movie or podcast and relax.

You can clip the whole quilt or you can clip about 5 clips at a time and work your way around the quilt.

sewing binding

Single-thread your needle with matching thread and knot the end with quilters not. (watch the video HERE for instructions). Start sewing anywhere on the quilt. You’ll be using basically the BLIND HEM STITCH.

quitl binding finished

Once you sew up to the last clip, you can fold and clip the next 5 clips. Continue this process until you’ve sewn all the way around the quilt.

Insert the needle into the fold of the binding from the back of the binding to the front. Hide the thread knot underneath.

Take a little stitch right at the side of the binding, through all layers. Insert the needle into the fold of the binding and directly across from where you came out on the last stitch.

Then go back into the quilt, and take another little stitch, then go back into the binding. Repeat this process until you run out of thread. Simply re-thread the needle and continue until you’ve sewn all the way around the quilt. Using the same type of stitch, so the mitered corners together. (Watch video to see the process).

sewing machine quilt binding

5- SEWING THE BINDING: Sewing Machine Method

Thread your machine and load your bobbin using a matching thread. Set your machine to a strait stitch. Length 2.5. You will be top stitching 1/8 inch from the inner fold of the binding using. You can adjust the needle to the left so you can use the edge of the presser foot as a guide or place a piece of masking tape for a guide.

More important is to keep the stitch at that 1/8 inch mark. Take your time. Before you start sewing. Bring the needle down by turning the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you so you can sew exactly where the needle is on your binding. Make adjustments as needed.

5- SEWING THE BINDING: Sewing Machine Method

Thread your machine and load your bobbin using a matching thread. Set your machine to a strait stitch. Length 2.5. You will be top stitching 1/8 inch from the inner fold of the binding using. You can adjust the needle to the left so you can use the edge of the presser foot as a guide or place a piece of masking tape for a guide.

More important is to keep the stitch at that 1/8 inch mark. Take your time. Before you start sewing. Bring the needle down by turning the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you so you can sew exactly where the needle is on your binding. Make adjustments as needed.

And you can take your, you can take your hand wheel and turn it toward you so you can see where that needle is going to come down. And I might need to go to the right just a little bit.

tip

It helps to place your machine on the right side of the table so you have something to support your quilt while you sew. If you don’t have a big table, you may want to get a chair or something else to support the quilt.

To keep the thread underneath from leaving a thread nest, hold onto the bobbin thread for the first couple of stitches and then let it go. This works like a charm. Who wants those bunched-up threads on the back side of your quilt? Not me.

I like folding and clipping a short portion as I go, or you can clip the whole quilt before you sew. Keep a little cup or your pin cushion close by to put your clips in as you remove them from your quilt.

Fold the corners as shown in method one. When you come to a corner, leave the needle down, lift up the presser foot and pivot the quilt and continue to sew. You will come back and hand-sew the mitered corners in place as shown above.

quilt label

6- ADDING A LABEL OR TAG ( optional)

binding tagIf I’m making a quilt as a gift, I always put a little heart or something on the backside.

I have available some fun editable PDF labels that you can download, edit and print. Editable files, and several sheets of love labels.

quilt bindtingThis is a tag that I made and printed onto this ribbon. LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR LABELS HERE.

I hope you can see that making a quilt is not that big of a deal. If you’ve never made a quilt before or if you have never sewn before, this is a good little project. You can start out with a small blanket and then work your way up to something bigger.

Have fun sewing!

OTHER TUTORIALS YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN

HOW TO MAKE A DENIM PATCHWORK QUILT

Upcycled Denim Jeans – Ideas and Tips

My Top 10 Sewing Tips for Beginners | Know Before You Sew

Have fun sewing!

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Make an Envelope Pillow Cover / Simple Sewing

envelope pillow cover

Is it time to switch out some of your throw pillows? Making your own envelope pillow cover is a great way to add a new pop of color to your couch or bed. It’s a super simple sewing project and it only takes about a ½ yard of fabric. There are so many ways to embellish these envelope pillow covers.

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to make a basic envelope pillow cover and show you some different things you can do to customize them. These pillow covers can be made any size.

What type of fabric works well for an envelope pillow cover?

You can use all the same fabric or mix it up and use several different prints or colors of fabric.

  • Quilters cotton
  • Upholstery fabric
  • Corduroy
  • Upcycled sweaters
  • Cotton knit
  • Denim
  • Fleece
  • Cotton blends

Embellishment Ideas

  • Pom pom trim
  • Piping
  • Embroidery panel
  • Buttons
  • Applique
envelope pillow cover

Materials & Items Needed – Envelope Pillow Cover

envelope pillow cover form

Envelope Pillow Cover Instructions

Cutting Out

 

ENVELOPE PILLOW COVER FRONT
FRONT PIECE MEASUREMENT

The first thing to do is to measure the pillow you are making the cover for. Measure from the side seam over to the other side seam. Add 1 inch to that measurement and write it down. THIS WILL BE THE MEASUREMENT OF THE FRONT FABRIC PIECE.

Example: pillow form measures 16”x 16” + 1 inch = 17”. Cut out front piece 17” x 17”

ENVELOPE PILLOW COVER BACK
BACK PIECE MEASUREMENT

Example: Take the measurement for the FRONT PIECE 17” and divide that by 2 = 8.5” + 2.5 inches = 11 inches. CUT TWO BACK PIECES 17” X 11”.

If you want to embellish the front of the pillow with embroidery and applique or if you want to add trim to the sides, this is the time to do that.

In the photo above, I have used a dishtowel with embroidery. A friend of mine gave this to me as a dishcloth and I loved it so much, I didn’t want it to get stained in the kitchen. 

So I cut strips of the back fabric and sewed them around the edge of the panel. I thought it turned out pretty cute. 

So there are no limits when it comes to things you can do with your envelope pillow cover. 

SEWING ENVELOPE PILLOW COVER

1- Hem the back envelope opening edges by folding the edge over ½ inch.

Press a crease at that point. Now fold the edge over to the crease you just made to make a rolled hem and press in place. You will have a ¼ inch  hem. Pin or clip in place.

2- Topstitch the hem using a straight stitch – length at 3.

Do this for both back pieces.

3- Place the front piece on the table with the RIGHT SIDE FACING UP.

Take one of the back pieces and place it RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN on top of the front piece with the hemmed edge in the center.

Place the other back piece RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN on top of the other pieces, with the hemmed edge overlapping the other back piece and raw edges even. Pin or clip in place.

4- Sew all the way around using a ½ inch seam allowance and the stitch length at 2.5.

5 – Finish the seam by using a zigzag stitch, serger, or pinking shears, so the seam allowance will not fray.

envelope pillow pressing

6 – Clip corners and turn RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT.

Poke corners out using a turning stick or point turner. Roll edges out and press.

envelope pillow cover yellow fabricTad-ah, insert your pillow form and you are good to go. Now wasn’t that simple!

How to Add Trim or Piping To Envelope Pillow Cover

1- Starting in the middle of the bottom front piece, place the trim onto the pillow edges with the top of the trim facing outward. When you come to the corners, just slightly round the corner with the trim. Pin or clip in place.

2- Baste the trim in place.

Sew around the trim using a basting stitch with the length at 4. (use a 3/8 inch seam allowance)

***You may want to use your zipper foot to apply trim. Now place the back pieces onto the pillow front.

Follow steps 3-5 above.

When adding piping or trim, it is helpful to use a zipper foot with the needle adjusted to the left if needed. (If you have a WALKING FOOT, use it). If you don’t have a walking foot for your machine, you can order one that fits your model. They are really nice to have and I use mine all the time.

buttons pillow envelope pillow cover

If you want to add a button to the opening for looks or because you want to reinforce the opening, you can do that like I have with this pillow. Simply sew a buttonhole and sew on a button.

formal border edge envelope pillow cover

Border Edge Envelope Pillow Cover

If you want to have a little border around the edge of your pillow cover, you can use this method.

1- Measure your pillow form and add 2 inches instead of one. 

This will give you a 1/2-inch border all the way around the pillow. It’s a little more formal look and works out really nicely.

2- Follow the instructions for the regular pillow cover.

3- After you have flipped the cover right side facing out and pressed the edges. Topstitch using that longer length of 3 all the way around the pillow edge, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. 

Of course, you can make this border wider if you want, just adjust the width when you are cutting out the pieces. 

I hope you enjoy making these as much as I do.

OTHER POSTS and VIDEOS YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN:

How to make a NO SEW THROW PILLOW COVER.

How To Sew on a Button | Simple Hand Sewing Method

7 Sewing Machine Presser Feet and How To Use Them

Have fun sewing!

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Make a Fabric Bag // Beginner Sewing Tutorial

fabric bag material items

Oh boy do I have a fun beginner sewing project for you. I’m going to show you how to make a fabric bag. They are so fun and quick to sew and you can use them for so many things.

If you’re new to sewing, this is a great beginner sewing project. These fabric bags can be made in any size. They make really cute gift bags, or you can use them to store almost anything. I’m going to make up a bunch of medium-sized bags out of muslin to store my onions and garlic to put in my pantry.

The little bags work well for candy treats or small items that you want to keep together.

Materials & Items Needed

  • sewing machine
  • some fabrics (quilters cotton, flannel, canvas, muslin, and even sheer and knit fabrics can be used)
  • scissors/rotary cutter mat (optional)
  • pins/wonder clips (optional)
  • measuring tape/Hot hemmer/seam gauge
  • iron
  • pencil or disappearing ink pen
  • turning stick, or the eraser end of a pencil
  • seam ripper
  • drawstring (upcycled t-shirt yarn, ribbon, bakers twine, jute, seam tape, recycled drawstrings from upcycled clothing)
  • optional embellishments (applique, whatever else you want to put on the bag)
  • optional tag/label
  • Wonder Under (optional)

 

Fabric Bag Instructions

Cutting Out

You can make these any size but some recommended basic sizes are:

Finished Size:

  • 4.5 x 5.25” / 11.5 x 13 cm
  • 8 x 9” / 21 x 23 cm
  • 13 x 12 25 inches (33 x 31cm) finished
sewing tips rotary cutters

I like cutting my fabric, especially squares and straight cuts with a rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, but you can always use regular scissors if you want to.

1- Decide how big you want the bag to be.

Seam allowance is ¼ – 3/8 inch and you’ll be folding the top of the bag down 1 ¼ inch to make a casing. You can make this casing larger or smaller if you wish.

For a medium size bag that has a finished measurement of 8 x 9, you’ll cut a piece of fabric 9 x 11 inches / 23 x 28cm.

2- Pre-pressing

Taking the time to pre-press your casing will save time and frustration. I LOVE using this Hot Hemmer. It makes hemming and pressing so much easier. I would definitely recommend investing in this little gadget and adding it to your sewing tool collection.

 

Fold the top edge under a ¼ inch and press all the way across. Do that on both pieces. Then fold over again 1 inch and press.

fabric bag seam

Unfold the hem you just pressed and place the right sides lining up the edges and the creases you just made.

Sew along the side, across the bottom, and back up the other side using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, or just the edge of your presser foot to make it easy. Backstitch at the beginning and the end of your stitching.

3- Fabric Bag Drawstring Casing

Measure down 2.5 inches from the top edge and mark that point on both sides.

4- Finishing the seam allowance.

You are going to want to finish the seams so the fabric does not fray. There are several methods you can use or you can cut the fabric with pinking shears. However, a simple zigzag stitch works great.

Zigzag stitch settings: Width 4 / Length 2

Start at that 2 ½ inch point you just marked and start sewing all the way around, with the right edge of the zigzag close to the fabric edge.

Open up the bag so that you can finger-press the seam allowance open where you didn’t finish the seam. You can use an iron if you want but I find a good finger press is sufficient. Press down firmly and slide your finger down and that will press it open.

fabric bag seam allowance
fabric bag

To reinforce the drawstring opening, sew around the unfinished seam making a little box area. Sew about 1/8 inch from the center seam.

fabric bag folded casing

Now, this is where that pre-pressing comes in handy! Fold the top of the fabric bag down where you pressed, ¼ inch and then 1 inch. Pin it in place.

Topstitch all the way around about 1/8 inch from the edge of that fold. If you have a sewing machine where you can remove the arm piece so you can slide your bag around the arm of the sewing machine.

However, if you don’t have that option, turn the fabric bag RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and sew inside the tube. (I hope that makes sense).

Janni Tip: Here is a great tip so that you don’t get those little bunched-up threads on the underside of your fabric where you start sewing:  When you start sewing, grab the needle and bobbin threads and hold them for the first couple of stitches then let go. There isn’t anything functionally wrong with the bunched-up threads, it’s just not very attractive.

Flip it right side facing out and take your turning stick and poke out the corners. 

To reinforce the top of the drawstring holes, take a few stitches about 1/8 inch from the top and only about an inch long.

This is where you’ll need the seam ripper. Pull the seam apart where you reinforced the hole so that you can see the stitches and just grab one of the stitches and cut it. Make sure you’re not cutting the fabric.

Start pulling the threads and cut as needed with the seam ripper to open that section up. Don’t worry, the seam will not come undone further than that because you have reinforced the seam.

5 – Drawstring Application

Measure out your drawstring material: take the width of the bag and double that, then add 4 inches. For this 9 x 11 inch bag, I’m going to cut two strips 25 inches.

Attach the safety pin to the end of the twine. If the twine or string you are using has ends that will fray, make a knot on the end before attaching the safety pin.

fabric bag cinched

That’s it! Pull the drawstrings and see how nicely it cinches together. Yay!

Fabric Bag Embellishments

You can embellish the bag with a tag, or an applique.

I have added a cute star and some flowers using “Wonder Under” fabric adhesive. This is great stuff. Stay tuned for a tutorial on how to use it.

Fabric Gift Bag Idea

I made some PJ pants and bought a t-shirt to match, then added a cute flower applique that I made from the fabric I used for the pants. Put them in a bag with matching applique and there you have an adorable, homemade gift bag. So cute.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Make A Pillowcase With A Cuff // Easy Burrito Method

gift ideas PILLOWCASE BURRITO

Making a pillowcase is a fun and simple beginner sewing project, and in this tutorial, I will show you how to add a contrasting cuff using the burrito method. It only requires a yard of fabric and about 15 minutes to make.

I’ll show you how to make them using a sewing machine, and a serger, and how to sew a French seam if you choose. You can also add a small strip of trim if you want and I’ll show you how easy it is to do that.

I have a FREE printable PDF guide showing the fabric measurements for a STANDARD, QUEEN, AND KING-size pillowcase. A standard pillowcase only requires one yard of fabric.

GET THE PDF HERE

PILLOWCASE MATERIALS & ITEMS NEEDED

  • Fabric (flannel or quilters cotton)
  • Sewing machine (serger optional)
  • Sewing machine needle size (Universal 90/14)
  • Scissors (Rotary Cutter & Mat optional)
  • Pins/Wonder fabric clips
  • Seam gauge/ measuring tape
  • Iron/Ironing board
  • Label/Tag (optional)

Standard Pillowcase Instructions

When you buy cotton and flannel fabric from the store, the width that it comes on the bolt varies from 43-44 inches. The first measurement on the cutting guide shows 44 inches x whatever. That is the width (cut edge) of the fabric, not the selvage edge. So it may be 43-44 inches.

Don’t worry about that because I’m going to simplify the process by cutting off the excess in one of the steps that will save you some time. So just cut those pieces out as indicated in the photo.

TIP: Before cutting the pillowcase pieces, make sure you are starting out with a STRAIGHT EDGE. The video tutorial gives some good tips on how to do this and why it is important!

*****If you’re using a directional print fabric (images are facing one direction), you’ll need to cut it out differently. Check out the video tutorial on how to do that.

PILLOWCASE BURRITO FABRIC PIECES

CUTTING OUT PILLOWCASE FABRIC PIECES

  • Main Fabric – cut 1 piece 44 x 28 inches / 111.5 x 71 cm
  • Cuff Fabric – cut 1 piece 44 x 9 inches / 111.5 x 23 cm
  • Narrow Trim (optional) – cut 1 piece 44 x 2 inches / 111.5 x 5 cm
pillowcase burrito

FABRIC PREP

1- If you are applying the trim, fold the trim piece in half horizontally with Wrong Sides Together (WST) and press to form a crease. Set that aside.

PILLOWCASE FABRIC LAYERS2- Place the CUFF PIECE right side facing up.

3- Take the pillowcase MAIN PIECE and place it on top of the CUFF PIECE RIGHT right side facing up. Line up the edges. **Don’t worry if the side edges don’t line up. We’ll trim those off so they’re even in just a bit.

4- If you are applying trim, add that to the pile with the RAW EDGES lined up with the edges of the cuff and main piece. Pin or clip in place.

PILLOWCASE JELLYROLL

5- Take the top edge of the MAIN PIECE, and start making a little jellyroll towards the cuff.

6- Continue to roll until it is in the middle of the cuff.

PILLOWCASE JELLYROLL PINNING7- Fold the other edge of the cuff over the jellyroll and line up that edge with the others.

8- Pin or clip all those edges together using pins or clips.

PILLOWCASE CUFF SEAM

SEWING THE PILLOWCASE CUFF

1- Take the roll to the sewing machine or serger and sew along the pinned edge using a 1/2” seam allowance.

PILLOWCASE JELLYROLL2- THIS IS WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS! Grab a piece of the jellyroll from one of the ends and start pulling it out and continue until all the innards are pulled out.

3- Unroll the fabric and wallah, you have a beautiful ENCLOSED SEAM.

4- Flatten the fabric out and press the cuff so the seams are pulled out completely.

PILLOWCASE TRIMMING

5- Fold the pillowcase in half with the WRONG SIDE FACING OUT (sewing machine & serger method or RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT (burrito method).

Line up cuff, trim, and fabric edges.

Measure 20.5 inches from the fold for the regular seam method and 21 inches from the fold. Cut off all the excess fabric.

PILLOWCASE SEAMS

There are three different methods to finish the seams on this pillowcase.

  • Sewing machine
  • Serger
  • French seams
PILLOWCASE SEAM

Sewing Machine Method

1- Sew along the side and top of the pillowcase using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the corners.

2- Finish off the seam by sewing a simple zigzag stitch along the edges so it will not fray. There are other stitches you can use to finish the seams. WATCH THE TUTORIAL HERE.

ZIGZAG STITCH SETTING AT 4 wide, 3 length.

3- Turn the right side facing out and give it a good pressing.

PILLOWCASE SEAM SERGER

Serger Method

1- Simply sew along the edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. ***For some helpful tips on how to start and end serged seams watch the video tutorial.

2- Turn right side facing out and press.

PILLOWCASE FRENCH SEAM

PILLOWCASE FRENCH SEAM INSTRUCTIONS

1- With the right side of the fabric facing out, you are going to make the first seam using a ¼ inch SEAM ALLOWANCE. I know this may seem wrong, but trust me.

PILLOWCASE TRIMMake sure the cuff edges and trim are lined up.

PILLOWCASE TAG

How To Add A Tag or Label To The Pillowcase

If you want to add a tag or label, this is the time to do it. If not, skip to the next step.

Locate where you want to add the tag and baste it in place with the sewing machine 1/4 inch from the edge. Place the tag so the folded edge of the tag is outside the pillowcase edge as shown in the picture. **Make sure you allow space for the seam. The tag needs to stick out after sewing both seams. So find where the ¼ seam would be then account for the next 3/8 inch seam and see how the tag will be exposed and adjust accordingly. (I hope that makes sense). The video tutorial will show how it is done.

2- After sewing the first pass with the ¼ inch seam. Cut any strings stray threads from the cut edge. Turn the pillowcase WRONG SIDE FACING OUT and press out the edges.

3- Now take it back to the sewing machine and sew another pass USING A 3/8 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE.

PILLOWCASE PRESSING4- Turn the pillowcase RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and give it a final pressing.

Tadah! Now wasn’t that simple. Look at the tidy, professional French seam.

diy pillowcase

These pillowcase burritos make such fun gifts! Grab a yard of fabric and have fun sewing!

Have fun making PILLOWCASES!

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Make a Fleece Neck Warmer | Free Pattern

NECK WARMER
diy fleece neck warmer

When it comes to cold weather, you gotta have something to keep your neck warm. This fleece neck warmer is the BEST, and it’s very easy to make! A double layer of cozy fleece fits comfortably around your neck keeping the cold air out.

You can make it any size. I have measurements for a child, youth, adult, and x-large adult. It is a quick and easy sewing project. You can easily have a neck warmer sewn up in ten minutes. It can be made reversible with two different colors of fleece. I will show you how to make both options.

Neck Warmer Materials & Items Needed

  • Fleece (19-21 inches square)
  • Scissors/rotary cutter (optional)
  • Fabric clips/pins
  • Sewing machine/serger (optional)
  • Safety pin
  • Tag (optional)

Neck Warmer Instructions

1-Cutting Out

Measure your head and use the chart above to determine the cutting measurements. I like using a rotary cutter and mat to cut fleece. It helps get a straight cut and is a lot quicker. However, a pair of scissors will work just fine.

REVERSIBLE NECK WARMER:

Cut out two pieces to the measurements given in the chart with the LONG SIDE ON THE STRETCH.

2-Sewing

VERY IMPORTANT! Fleece fabric has some stretch to it and will be more stretchy from selvage edge to selvage edge. (The finished edge of the fabric is the selvage edge).

 

2-Determine which edge is the “stretchy side” and mark with a safety pin.

This is critical because if you sew it with the stretch on the wrong side, you won’t be able to get the warmer over your head.

 

3-Fold in half so the STRETCHY SIDE is along the long edge.

You can sew this neck warmer using a regular sewing machine or a serger. A serger is very nice if you have access to one, but not necessary.  

You can also hand stitch the whole thing. I have a tutorial showing you how to sew a STRETCH STITCH WITH A NEEDLE AND THREAD.

***If using a regular sewing machine set the stitch to a small zigzag stitch (1 1/2 width x 1 length) or the lightning bolt stitch. IF YOU JUST USE A REGULAR STRAIGHT STITCH, THE SEAM WILL POP WHEN THE FABRIC IS STRETCHED. (Watch the video for a demonstration of what happens if you don’t use a stretch stitch). A serger stitch allows stretching.

4-Sew seam

USING A 3/8 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE, pin or clip in place and sew from the edge to edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam if using a single needle machine.

5-Turn right side facing out.

Fold the tube in on itself so RIGHT SIDES ARE FACING EACH OTHER.  Line up the seam and pin in place.

You will be leaving an opening  UNSEWN about 3-4 inches.

TIP: I like to use different colors of pins (red) or clips to mark the opening, so I don’t forget and sew all the way around.

If you want to add a tag to the back neck seam, insert the tag between the layers of fabric and baste in place before sewing the seam. (video tutorial shows how to do this).

Start at one of the RED CLIPS, backstitch, and sew around to the other red clip. Backstitch.

LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CUSTOM LABELS HERE

6-Reach your hand inside the opening you left and turn it right side facing out.

7-Sew the opening closed.

Fold the seam allowance inside and pin it in place. You can sew the opening closed with a sewing machine using a small 1/8 inch seam allowance, or hand sew using a ladder stitch.

8- REVERSIBLE NECK WARMER

Place pieces (RST) and sew along the long sides.

 

5- Follow instructions 3 & 4.

Tadah!

Now wasn’t that a simple little project. These make great gifts.

Be sure to check out my other fleece tutorials showing you how to make a fleece headband ear warmers and fingerless mittens.

YOU MAY ALSO BE INTERESTED IN THIS VIDEO.

 

Play Video

Have fun sewing!

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

DIY Baby Bib Tutorial | Reversible

baby bib reversible youmakeitsimple.com

Sewing for babies is the best thing ever. This reversible baby bib is a fun and quick little project that is great for even a beginner seamstress. You can apply snaps or Velcro and it has an optional food pocket.

You can use two different contrasting fabrics, or use the same fabric for both sides. The baby bib can be made with several types of fabric: flannel, terry cloth, quilting cotton, sturdy knit fabrics, or laminate cloth.

These make the best baby gifts! Combine a few bibs with some burp cloths, a mitered corner baby blanket, and a bottle of yummy smelling baby lotion and you’ve got an adorable baby gift, a gift that is made from the heart.

Be sure to check out my other baby tutorials.

Baby Bib Materials and Items Needed

Baby Bib Fabric Choices & Requirements

Bibs can be made using several types of fabrics; flannel, terry cloth, quilting cotton, knit, and Pull laminate finished cloth (used for diapers). 

You can make the baby bib reversible and you can use two different prints or colors.

 

Baby Bib Pattern Assembly

Due to the large size of the pattern, you will need to assemble the pattern first.

Simply fold or cut the dotted line on pattern piece 2 and place it on top of and on the dotted line on piece 1 where indicated.

Tape in place and cut out the chosen size.

There is a size for infants, toddlers, children, or a small teething bib. 

*YOU CAN MAKE THE PATTERN SMALLER OR LARGER. I give you specific instructions in the video on how to easily do that. 

Cutting Out

Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise with selvage edges (the finished edge of fabric) parallel to the fold.

Place the pattern piece so the grain arrow is parallel to the selvage edge. 

baby bib cutting outCut out 2 bibs on the fold. You can double fold and cut all 4 pieces at once if you are using the same fabric for the front and back.

FOOD POCKET (optional)

Cut out a piece of fabric approximately 8 x 12 inches. Fold the fabric in half crosswise and then fold in half again lengthwise.

Place the food pocket pattern along folds where indicated. Cut out one.

 

Sewing Baby Bib

If applying a FOOD POCKET, fold the pocket fabric piece in half lengthwise.

* Adding a tag along the pocket top is a cute addition, but optional. Or you can add a tag in the seam somewhere.

Place the folded pocket on top of one of the bib pieces right side facing up. Align the edges and clip in place.

 

Baste in place using a ½ seam allowance and a long basting stitch. Do not backstitch.

Place the other bib piece right side facing down on top of the other bib piece. Line up edges and clip or pin in place.

You will be leaving about 4 inches unsewn on one of the sides of the bib. (This will allow you to turn the bib inside out).

Starting on one side, sew all the way around using a    3/8 inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Clip outer curves with V notches and inner curves with little slits.

Using a turning stick, poke out the curves and edges.

REMOVE BASTING STITCHES FROM FOOD POCKET

Close the opening you left open by folding the edges in to match seam allowance. Press and clip in place.

baby bib topstitching

Topstitch all the way around using a 1/8 – ¼ inch seam allowance.

Baby Bib Snap Application

You can use KAM snaps, which is what I prefer and use. Or you can use sew-in snaps or even Velcro.

Place the pattern on top of the bib, lining up curves. (Notice: you will be placing two snaps on one side of the bib and only one on the other. This will allow you to adjust the neck size).

Using the awl, that comes with the snap kit, poke the holes where indicated to mark the snap points.

Follow product instructions for the snap or Velcro application.

Tadah!

Here are some other baby projects you may be interested in:

BABY BEANIE HATS

DIY MITERING CORNER BABY BLANKETS

SEWING WITH PLUSH FABRICS

DIY FABRIC LABELS

Have fun sewing!

Play Video

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