How to Sew A Zipper Pouch / Simple Front-Facing Zipper

If you love making zipper pouches as much as I do, you’ll enjoy this simple variation! In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to sew a zipper pouch with the zipper on the front instead of along the top.

I’ll also show you how to use French seams to give your pouch a clean, finished interior without having to leave an opening in the lining and sew it closed afterward. That’s one less step, and I’m all for making things easier!

We’ll also add a cute little fabric handle and go over some of my favorite tips for working with zippers.

These little bags are so handy for organizing all kinds of things, and they make great handmade gifts.

What Makes This Zipper Pouch Different?

If you’ve made one of my other zipper pouch projects, you may be familiar with installing the zipper along the top of the bag.

For this project, we’re doing things a little differently.

Here are a few things I love about this design:

Front-facing zipper: Gives the pouch a different look and allows you to adjust where the zipper sits.
French seams: Enclose the raw edges inside the pouch for a neat, finished interior.
No lining opening to close: There’s no need to turn the pouch through a lining opening and stitch it closed afterward.
Fabric handle: Adds a cute, practical finishing touch.
Customizable sizes: Make a small, medium, or large pouch depending on what you want to use it for.

You can also play around with different fabric combinations, zipper colors, and even add contrasting zipper trim for a little extra detail.

Supplies You’ll Need

You don’t need a lot of supplies to make these zipper pouches, and you may already have most of them in your sewing room.

Fabric and Materials

Outer fabric
Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing
Nylon zipper or zipper-by-the-yard
Zipper pull (if using zipper-by-the-yard)
Fabric strip for the handle

Sewing Tools

Sewing machine
Iron and ironing surface
Fabric scissors
Rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat (optional but helpful)
Fabric clips or pins
Turning stick or point turner
Double-sided fabric tape or fabric glue (optional)

A little tip: I love using 1/4-inch-wide double-sided fabric tape when installing zippers. It helps keep everything in place without having to worry about pins shifting while I sew.

What Type of Fabric Works Best?

For this tutorial, I’m using regular quilting cotton for the outer fabric and a plain cotton fabric for the lining.

Quilting cotton is easy to work with and comes in so many fun colors and prints.

If you’re using a lighter-weight cotton, I recommend adding fusible interfacing to give the pouch a little more structure.

You can also use heavier fabrics such as:

Denim
Duck cloth
Corduroy
Other medium-weight woven fabrics

Depending on the thickness of your fabric, you may not need interfacing.

Here’s a quick overview of the process:

Prepare your fabric. Cut your outer fabric, lining, and interfacing, and fuse the interfacing in place.
Install the zipper. I’ll show you how to position the zipper on the front of the pouch and add decorative topstitching.
Add the zipper pull. Learn a simple trick that makes installing zipper pulls much easier.
Make the fabric handle. This little addition gives the pouch a cute, practical finishing touch.
Sew the French seams. This is my favorite part! The French seams enclose the raw edges, giving the inside a clean finish without having to sew a lining opening closed.
Turn and press. Finish the pouch, straighten the corners, and give it a final press.

Watch the Step-by-Step Video Tutorial

Follow along as I make the medium-sized zipper pouch and share some of my favorite sewing tips along the way.

Get the Printable Zipper Pouch Pattern

Want to make more than one size?

I’ve created a printable PDF sewing pattern that includes three different pouch sizes, along with cutting measurements, printable pattern pieces, and detailed sewing instructions.

It’s especially handy if you want to make several pouches for gifts or prefer having printed instructions right beside your sewing machine.

How To Sew a Zipper Pouch With Contrasting Zipper Trim / Easy Sewing Tutorial

How To Make the Cutest Scrappy Fabric for Unique Sewing Projects

A Beginners Guide to Rotary Cutting / Helpful Tips and Tricks

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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How to Make a DIY Finger Pincushion (Easy Beginner Sewing Project)

If you’re tired of constantly setting your pins down and searching for them again, this little DIY finger pincushion might become one of your favorite sewing accessories.

Unlike a traditional wrist pincushion, a finger pincushion sits comfortably on your finger, keeping your pins exactly where you need them without getting in the way.

It’s especially handy for hand sewing, quilting, English paper piecing, embroidery, and any project where you’re constantly reaching for pins.

The best part? It only takes a small scrap of fabric and a few inexpensive supplies to make one.

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist looking for a quick scrap-busting project, this is a fun project you can finish in less than an hour.

Watch the Video Tutorial

If you’d rather follow along visually, be sure to watch the full video tutorial before you begin. It walks you through every step and includes several helpful tips that are easier to demonstrate on video.

Supplies Needed

You’ll need:

Cotton fabric scrap
Fiberfill stuffing
Small plastic juice bottle lid
Small hair elastic
Embroidery floss
Heavy-duty thread
Embroidery needle
Small button
Scissors
Awl (or something similar to poke a hole in the lid)

The finished finger pincushion measures approximately 1¼ inches (3.2 cm) across and uses only one circular fabric piece cut from the pattern.

How to Make a Finger Pincushion

Step 1: Cut Out the Fabric

Download the pattern here and cut one circle from your fabric. This single circle forms the entire pincushion.

Step 2: Prepare the Lid and Finger Ring

Using an awl, poke a small hole through the center of the plastic lid.

Cut the elastic. To thread the elastic through the hole, create a small loop of thread and use it like a needle threader to pull the elastic through the opening.

Place the ring on your finger, adjust it until it fits comfortably, tie a secure knot, and trim away the excess elastic.

Tip: The elastic should feel snug enough to stay in place but not so tight that it becomes uncomfortable during long sewing sessions.

Step 3: Sew the Pincushion

Thread an embroidery needle with heavy-duty thread.

Using long basting stitches, sew around the edge of the fabric circle about ¼ inch from the edge.

Pull the thread gently to create a little pouch.

Add fiberfill stuffing until the pincushion is nice and firm.

Insert the prepared lid with the elastic attached.

Continue gathering the fabric around the lid, tucking in the raw edges as you go.

Sew around the bottom again to secure everything in place before knotting the thread.

Step 4: Sew on the Button

Sew a decorative button to the top center of the pincushion.

Not only does it add a cute finishing touch, but it also helps slightly compress the center, giving the pincushion its classic pumpkin shape.

That’s It!

Your new finger pincushion is ready to use!

Slip it onto your finger the next time you’re quilting, hand stitching, or sewing garments, and you’ll wonder how you ever worked without it.

Finger Pincushion vs. Wrist Pincushion

Both styles have their advantages.

A finger pincushion is great when:

Hand sewing
English Paper Piecing
Embroidery
Small quilting projects
Working at a table

A wrist pincushion is often better for:

Garment sewing
Pinning large pieces of fabric
Standing while sewing
Frequent trips between the ironing board and sewing machine

I actually keep both nearby and choose whichever works best for the project I’m working on.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of fabric works best?

Quilting cotton works beautifully because it’s easy to sew and holds its shape well.

Can I use something besides a plastic lid?

The plastic lid gives the pincushion stability while providing a secure place to attach the elastic. Similar-sized plastic lids from juice or water bottles should also work well.

Can beginners make this project?

Absolutely! This is an excellent beginner sewing project that introduces basic hand sewing, gathering stitches, stuffing, and simple finishing techniques.

Does the elastic adjust?

Yes! The elastic is fitted to your own finger before tying the final knot, making it comfortable for almost any finger size.

Get the Printable Pattern

Want the printable version with full-size pattern pieces and step-by-step photos?

👉 Get the Wrist & Finger Pincushion PDF Pattern here:

My website

My Etsy shop

The printable pattern also includes instructions for making the matching wrist pincushion, so you can make one—or both!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Alter a Bucket Hat Sewing Pattern To Get a Perfect Fit

One of the best things about sewing your own bucket hat is that you can customize it to fit your personal style and head shape.

Before making adjustments, I always recommend sewing your first hat exactly as written in the pattern instructions.

Once you’ve tried it on, you can decide whether you’d like a wider brim, a narrower brim, or a taller or shorter crown.

These simple alterations will help you create a bucket hat that fits and looks exactly the way you want.

How to Adjust the Brim Width

The easiest bucket hat alteration is changing the brim width.

To Make the Brim Wider

Trace around the outside edge of the brim pattern piece, extending it by the desired amount.

You can add:

¼ inch for a subtle change
½ inch for additional sun protection
1 inch or more for a dramatic sun hat look

NEVER MESS WITH THE INNER EDGE!

To Make the Brim Narrower

Simply trim away the desired amount from the outer edge of the brim pattern.

Important: Do not alter the inner edge of the brim. The inner edge must remain the same so it continues to fit the crown properly.

A Note About Interfacing

Keep in mind that wider brims tend to become floppier. You may want to use a heavier interfacing or add an extra layer of stabilizer to help the brim hold its shape.

How to Adjust the Crown Height

Head shapes vary considerably. Some people prefer a deeper hat that sits lower, while others like a shorter crown that sits higher on the head.

A simple slash-and-spread method makes it easy to adjust crown height.

To Increase Crown Height

Draw a line across the center of the side crown piece.
Cut along this line.
Spread the pattern pieces apart by the desired amount.
Tape the cut pieces to a new piece of paper.
Keep the grainline straight.
Blend the side edges smoothly.

To Decrease Crown Height

Draw a line across the center of the side crown piece.
Cut along the line.
Overlap the pieces by the desired amount.
Keep the grainline straight.
Tape pieces together.
Blend the side edges smoothly.

Even a ½-inch adjustment can noticeably change how the hat fits and feels.

Finding Your Perfect Fit

Everyone’s head shape is unique, which is why pattern adjustments are so valuable. Don’t be afraid to experiment with small changes until you find the fit you love.

Once you’ve made your custom adjustments, write them directly on your pattern pieces so you can recreate that perfect fit every time you sew a new bucket hat.

GET THE BUCKET HAT PATTERNS HERE:

Bucket Hat

This also comes in a Bucket Hat Bundle, including baby and child sizes

VISOR BUCKET HAT

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How to Make a DIY Towel Scarf / Easy Beginner Sewing Tutorial

If you’re constantly losing your kitchen towel, having it slip off your shoulder, or grabbing for it only to find… nothing—this simple sewing project is going to fix that for good.

This DIY towel scarf keeps your towel right where you need it—hands-free, comfortable, and ready for whatever kitchen mess comes your way.

No slipping. No searching. No frustration.

And the best part? It’s quick, beginner-friendly, and a great way to use up fabric scraps.

Why You’ll Love This Towel Scarf

Keeps your towel right at your fingertips
Comfortable to wear around your neck
Great for drying hands, wiping counters, and cooking cleanup
Uses scrap fabric
Makes a fantastic gift
Once you make one… you’ll probably end up making a stack.

Supplies You’ll Need

1 kitchen towel
Cotton fabric (quilting cotton works great)
Rotary cutter + mat + ruler (or scissors)
Pins or clips
Sewing machine
Iron + ironing board
Label (optional)

A Note About Towel Size

Kitchen towels vary quite a bit, but most fall in this range:

Width: 15″–18″
Length: 25″–28″

The sample shown uses a 16″ x 26″ towel.

You can use:

Terry cloth
Linen
Any towel you like

Remove any tags before starting.

Step 1: Cut and Prep the Towel

Fold the towel in half lengthwise
Cut along the fold to create two pieces
Trim edges to clean up uneven or fuzzy sides

Step 2: Create the Towel Pleats

This is what helps the towel sit nicely inside the neck band.

Fold the towel in half and mark the center
Open it up (right side facing up)
Bring the side edge to the center point, press fold.
Fold it again onto itself so the hemmed edge is lined up with the folded towel underneath, to create a ayered pleat.
Flip the towel over and fold again to line up with the center point. Pin in place

Repeat on the other side.

👉 Pin everything in place.

Helpful tip:
Do a quick basting stitch about 1″ from the raw edge to hold everything together. It’s optional—but honestly, it saves headaches later. Stitch length 4-5

Step 3: Measure and Cut the Neck Piece

To get the measurement of the fabric for the neck piece, measure the width of your folded towel.

Width

Example:

Folded towel width = 4″

Now calculate:

Double it → 4″ x 2 = 8″
Add 1¼” for bulk (or 1½” for thicker towels)

👉 Final cut width: 9¼” wide.

Length:

You can make the scarf as long as you want. The average length is about 43 inches. I like mine a little longer and cut it to 44 inches.

Cut your fabric 42″–44″ long (standard fabric width on a bolt works perfectly)

Trim off selvage edges before cutting.

The neck piece measures 44 x 9 1/4 inches.

Step 4: Sew the Neck Band Tube

Place the fabric right sides together horizontally.
Fold the bottom edge to meet the top edge. (There should be 4 layers of fabric).
Measure 3″ from the top left folded edges to mark the tube opening in the center. MAKE A SMALL CLIP AT THIS POINT THROUGH ALL LAYERS.
Unfold and fold in half horizontally again, matching up clipped points.
Pin in place. (Use different colored pins to mark the opening)
Sew along the long edge with a ½” seam allowance
- Backstitch at start and end
- Skip the 3″ opening

Press the seam open.

I LOVE this little mini iron for things like this!

Step 5: Insert the Towel (Magic Step ✨)

This is the fun/awkward-but-brilliant part.

Fold the bottom edge of the towel up a bit, then attach a safety pin to the end of the towel.
Feed the towel through the fabric tube.
Use a turning tool or stick to push it in.
Flatten the towel, bringing its folds against the fabric tube’s fold. Align center points carefully.
Pin in place

Repeat for both ends.

Step 6: Stitch the Ends

Sew each end with a ½” seam allowance
Backstitch at the beginning and end of seams.
Trim seam allowance slightly

Then turn everything right side out by pulling the towel through the opening you left unsewn.

👉 You’ll end up with a super clean finish—no bulky overlaps.

Step 7: Close the Opening + Shape the Neck

Flatten out the neck piece with the opening edge at the bottom.
Press the edges.
Fold the neck piece in half, lining up the opening and folded edges. (Open edge on top).
Press and place pins on the opening edges.
Clip in place.
Topstitch from pin to pin close to the edge (about ⅛”). Backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
This also helps narrow the neck for a more comfortable fit

Step 8: Topstitch

For a polished look, topstitch the edge of the neck piece where the towel meets the fabric.

Stitch ⅛” from the edge
Add a second row 1/4 from the previous stitching.

It gives it that “store-bought but better” finish.

Step 9: Add a Label (Optional)

If you love adding personality to your projects:

Place a label at the center back of the neck

It’s a small detail—but it makes a big difference.

Final Thoughts

That’s it!

A quick, practical, and actually useful sewing project you’ll use every single day.

Great Gift Idea 🎁

These make perfect:

Mother’s Day gifts
Housewarming gifts
Handmade kitchen sets

Pair one with:

A cute dish towel
Homemade treats
Or a matching apron

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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How To Make a Mini Zipper Pouch // Quick and Easy Sewing Project

This mini zipper pouch is a fun and practical sewing project. It is quick and easy, perfect for beginners!

These little pouches are the right size for storing jewelry, earbuds, or other small essentials.

Best of all, they require only a small amount of fabric and can be customized in endless ways.

Follow this step-by-step guide to create your own mini zipper pouch!

Materials You’ll Need

▪ Fabric: Quilter’s cotton, denim, upcycled fabric, vinyl, faux leather, or scrappy fabric panels
▪ Interfacing: Lightweight interfacing or fusible fleece
▪ Zipper: Half of a zipper (one side) with a zipper pull, 8 ½ inches of zipper. (I love using “zippers-by-the-yard”
▪ D-Ring (optional): 1/2-inch D-ring with 2 inches of twill tape (or a fabric loop)
▪ Basic Sewing Supplies: Fabric scissors, rotary cutter, ruler, turning stick, sewing machine, zipper foot, iron, and ironing board
▪ Fabric Glue or Glue Stick (Optional): Helps with zipper placement

Cutting Out Mini Zipper Pouch

• Cut One Outer Fabric and One Lining Fabric: 3″ x 7 3/4″
• Interfacing: 2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ (cut smaller to reduce bulk)

***If using thicker fabric like denim or corduroy, apply interfacing only to the lining fabric.

Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric

Apply Interfacing:

Place the interfacing’s rough (glue) side onto the wrong side of the lining fabric.
Press with an iron to adhere.
****Embellish (Optional): If you want to add embroidery or an appliqué before assembling the pouch.

Vinyl Version:

Use lightweight vinyl or faux leather instead of fabric. No lining is needed—attach the zipper directly to the vinyl.

Fold the zipper tape under and topstitch.
Fold the pouch in half and sew the sides and bottom. Easy!

Step 2: D-Ring Application (optional)

Fold the twill tape in half, thread it through the D-ring, and baste it onto the fabric about 1/8″ from the edge.

Step 3: Zipper Application

Glue Basting the Zipper:

Place the wrong side of the zipper facing up onto a piece of scrap paper.
Apply a small bead of glue onto the zipper taper.
Center the zipper onto the RIGHT SIDE of the LINING FABRIC, aligning the edges.
Press with an iron to set in place. (This is NOT permanent). This helps keep the zipper from shifting while sewing.

Now apply a bead of glue to the RIGHT SIDE OF THE ZIPPER TAPE, and place the RIGHT SIDE OF THE OUTER FABRIC onto the zipper.
Use a hot iron to set in place.

Sew the Zipper:

Attach the zipper foot to your machine with the needle on the left.

Sew along the edge, 1/8 inch from the zipper teeth.

Topstitch:

Fold the fabric so the wrong sides are together.
Press the edges well and topstitch about 1/8″ from the edge for a clean, professional look.

Step 4: Attaching the Zipper Pull

Using a “zipper gadget” is nice, but don’t worry if you don’t have one.

Line up the ends of the zipper tape and thread the zipper ends into the zipper pull. (The Video tutorial is beneficial.)
Once attached, zip the zipper up only halfway.

Step 5: Assemble the Pouch

Open up the pouch so that when folded in half, the lining and the outer fabrics face RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
Line up the raw edges and pin in place.
Place the zipper tape so it is facing towards the lining fabric.
Sew along the bottom of the outer fabric and the sides of the pouch. (Go slow when sewing over the zipper.)

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

***LEAVE THE BOTTOM OF THE LINING PIECE unsewn.

Trim off excess zipper.

Reduce bulk by clipping the corners and trimming excess zipper tape

Step 5: Turn and Finish

Turn the Pouch Right Side Out
Use a turning stick to push out the corners gently.

Close the Lining Opening

Fold in the raw edges of the lining bottom under ¼ inch.
Press and clip in place.
Topstitch close to the edge.
Push the lining inside the pouch and poke out the corners.

Mini Zipper Pouce Alternative Materials & Embellishments

Personalized Touches: Add a fabric label, appliqué, or embroidery for unique designs.

There are so many fun options and color combinations that can be used.

Have fun making this mini zipper pouch.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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beginner sewing project Sewing tutorial zipper zipper pouch

DIY Top Knot Headband | Easy Sewing Tutorial

When you’re looking for a cute baby gift, this top knot headband is so quick and easy to make! They can be made with a minimal amount of knit fabric and OF COURSE, an UPCYCLED T-SHIRT!

Choose fabrics that have good stretch to them. These top knot headbands are cute made up of solid colors or prints. I’ve been known to buy shirts, dresses, and skirts for the fabric to make other things with. In fact, I do it all the time, especially clothing on clearance racks! So be on the lookout in your closet and on clearance racks for some cute stretchy fabric that you can make headbands or other baby clothing with.

Choose fabrics that have good stretch to them. These top knot headbands are cute made up with solid colors or prints. I’ve been known to buy shirts, dresses, and skirts for the fabric to make other things with. In fact, I do it all the time, especially clothing on clearance racks! So be on the lookout in your closet and on clearance racks for some cute stretchy fabric that you can make headbands or other baby clothing with.

Make sure you are checking out my SEWING PATTERN STORE, where you’ll find a big handful of other things you can make for babies.

These topknot headbands look adorable on babies, toddlers, and even adults. They can be made to fit ANY SIZE HEAD, just follow the head measuring instructions to get a perfect fit.

You can make these headbands using a regular sewing machine; serger or you can even sew them by hand. If you don’t have a sewing machine, be sure to check out my HANDSEWING tutorial where I show you how to sew a stretch stitch by hand.

Top Knot Headband Materials & Items Needed

Sewing machine/Serger (optional)
Scissors/Rotary Cutter-Mat
Knit Fabric or UPCYCLED KNIT CLOTHING
Pins/Fabric clips (optional)
Measuring tape
Turning stick

HEAD MEASUREMENT

The best way to get the correct size is to measure the head you are making the headband for. If that’s not possible, refer to the Average Head Circumference Chart. Knit fabric will stretch to fit a wide variety of heads sizes in that range so don’t be too stressed about it!

Using a measuring tape, measure the widest part of the head. Write that measurement down.

CUTTING OUT
Cut a strip of knit fabric (6-8 inches/15.5 cm x HEAD MEASUREMENT)

Feel free to alter the thickness of the headband. You may want a thicker, bulkier, or even a thinner headband. It’s all your preference and you can cut them out accordingly.

Make sure you cut out the strips with the stretchiness of the fabric for the widest part.

Upcycled t-shirts work really well

SEWING TOP KNOT HEADBAND

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 3/8 INCH

sewing with fleece lightning bolt stitch

STITCH TYPE:

Use a lightning bolt stitch, a small narrow zigzag stitch, this is so the seams won’t pop and break when the fabric is stretched, or you can use a 3-4 thread serger.

Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise. Sew along the unfinished edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Turn right side facing out using a turning stick or the eraser end of a pencil.

Align the seam so it is in the center of the headband.

Take the short ends and tie a very loose knot.

Place the shorts ends Right Sides Together and with the seams lined up. Using a regular straight stitch, sew along the unfinished edge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. (Basically the edge of your presser foot). Trim seam allowance.

I love this method because there is NO SEAM on the back of the headband, therefore making it so much more comfortable to wear.

Slide the knot down so it covers the seam you just made. Adjust the knot how you want it and you’re finished!

Tadah! Now wasn’t that simple!

I hope you have fun making these top knot headbands as much as I do.

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How to Make a Baby Beanie From Upcycled T-Shirts

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

DIY Baby Bib Tutorial | Reversible

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Diy Baby Beanie Hats from Recycled T shirts

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Baby Gift Ideas – Upcycled Sweater Toys

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Sewing Corners and Curves | Serger Tips and Tricks

Serging around corners and curves can be a little tricky, but when you know these handy tips and tricks, it’s no problem at all.

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to easily sew around square outer and inner corners and how to sew curves without any puckering.

For those of you who are visual learners, you can watch the video tutorial at the end of the post. I give several other serger tips that you won’t want to miss!

Typical Corners and Curves Sewing Projects

Curved neckband facings
Square neck facings
Finishing napkin or placemats
Burp cloths
Eye pillows
Round pillow

Of course, sewing around corners and curves is not a big issue with a regular sewing machine, but when you are using a serger (3 or 4 thread) it is different.

For one thing, the serger leaves a chain of stitching that can get quite messy and add bulk to your project if you leave it too long when turning. No more of that!

Before I learned these tips and tricks, I had stitching tails all over the place, which didn’t look really clean and finished.

Before trying any of these tips, I recommend getting some scrap pieces of fabric and just practicing.

It takes a little practice, and every fabric is different.

Tips for Sewing OUTER CURVES

Start with lining up the fabric edge you are sewing with the side of your serger plate (the side with the blade).

This is where you want to keep your focus point. As you slowly sew, you’ll be gently rotating the fabric to the right, keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with the edge of the cutting plate.

Be careful not to twist too much or you’ll get puckers. Just let the machine feed the fabric and you turn the fabric. You’ll get the hang of it real fast.

Tips for sewing INNER CURVES

The same thing as with outer curves, except instead of rotating the fabric to the right, you’ll rotate it to the left.

Inner curves are a tad trickier because they have a smaller radius. Just go slow. Any slight puckering that occurs can be pressed out.

Most likely, you’ll be sewing a lot more outer corners than inner corners, but knowing how to sew an inner corner using this method is a GAME CHANGER!

Outer Corners

To sew an outer corner, sew up to the edge of the fabric and then take two more stitches by TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOU.

Lift up the presser foot, gently pull the fabric back a bit to disengage the threads from the looper hooks.

This will enable you to PIVET THE FABRIC around. Align the fabric edge with the knife plate edge and the top of the fabric so that when the needles come down, it will be just inside the edge of the fabric.

Continue to sew. It’s pretty simple. Do some practicing on scrap fabric. It’s actually quite fun, and notice what clean corners you have all finished nicely!

Inner Corners

Begin sewing, and when you get close to the corner, flip the bottom of the fabric edge to line up with the knife edge of your serger. THIS WILL MAKE A NATURAL PLEAT! Flatten the pleat (it will look like a little ice cream cone).

Continue to sew straight, keeping the fabric along the edge until you have completed the corner.

Open up the fabric and BAM, there you have it!

If there is just slight puckering, this can be pressed out.

NOTE: if the fabric is thicker, you may need to clip the corner just slightly 1/16 of an inch before sewing. You shouldn’t have a problem with lighter-weight fabrics.

Once again, practice and test the fabric you’re using for your project to see whether you need to clip the corner.

I hope that was helpful. Please leave a comment if you have any questions.

Here are a few other blog posts you may be interested in:

Sewing Machine Needles: Why Choosing the Right One Matters

Unpicking Serger Stitches the EASY WAY

OVERLOCK STITCH | No Serg er Needed

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

serger serger tips Sewing sewing basics Sewing tutorial sewing video

DIY Neck Cooling Scarf | Easy Sewing Tutorial

When it’s hot and you need to keep cool, this DIY neck cooling scarf works like a charm. The scarf is made of simple cotton fabric and filled with water beads. These polymer crystals or water beads are quite amazing and when soaked will plump up with water, expand and then release the moisture slowly. That’s what makes this cooling scarf so nice is that it will stay wet and applies gentle moisture to your skin that keeps you cool for hours.

This is a very simple sewing project that even a beginner seamstress can handle. Making a neck cooling scarf will only take you about ten minutes to make, and it only takes a minimal amount of fabric. These are great to wear when you are working outside, or inside and can be worn by adults and children.

What types of water beads/crystal are best to use?

There are lots of varieties out there. The “crystals” are very small chunks that almost look like a powder, while the “beads” are smooth spheres.

I like to use spherical beads for comfort and ease of use, and some say that the small crystal powder can absorb into the fabric.

You will be AMAZED at how plump the beads get when soaked in water. One teaspoon turns into 3-4 cups once soaked!

You can find the beads in most craft stores, floral shops, and even some hardware stores in the garden section.

They were all sold out in the stores in my location, so I bought them online and was very pleased with this brand. (clear beads).

You can find the beads in most craft stores, floral shops, and even some hardware stores in the garden section.

They were all sold out in the stores in my location, so I bought them online and was very pleased with this brand. (clear beads)

Neck Cooling Scarf Materials & Items Needed

Water beads or water crystals
Cotton fabric
Scissors/rotary cutter (optional)
Sewing machine
Iron
Pins/ fabric clips
Measuring tape
Cookie sheet (to keep the beads from going all over the place)

Neck Cooling Scarf Instructions

1-Hydrate the beads.

If you are using beads, hydrate them before placing them into the scarf.

There are so many different bead sizes that it’s hard to know how much they’ll expand. If you fill the scarf tool full they can expand too much and pop the seams.

If you are using the crystals you can apply the powder before soaking. JUST REMEMBER YOU’LL ONLY NEED JUST A LITTLE BIT! 1 teaspoon of powder, split into different pockets.

The bead to water ratio is 1 teaspoon/3 cups water. Get a big bowl or tub to put them in. It may take a few hours for them to hydrate completely. I like to soak my beads the night before I plan on sewing.

2 -Cut a piece of cotton fabric 4.5/10 cm x 42-44/112 cm inches.

Most bolts of cotton fabric are 42-44 inches wide, so just cut a strip of fabric 4.5 inches.

3 -Fold the long edges of the fabric strip in half and CUT OFF THE SELVAGE EDGES AT A 45° ANGLE to form a taped edge.

4 -Open up the strip and fold in half again with the RIGHT SIDES FACING EACH OTHER.]

5 -Pin or clip in place.

You are going to leave a space un-sewn about 4 inches/10cm long to turn to the scarf. Find the center and mark that 4 inch space so you don’t forget and sew.

6 -Sew together.

Using a straight stitch, start sewing at one tapered edge and sew all the way around to the other end. DON’T FORGET TO LEAVE THE OPENING. When you come to the red clip, backstitch and then lift up your presser foot and move to the next red clip. Backstitch and continue to sew the rest of the seam backstitching at the end.

7 -Clip corners.

8 -Using a turning stick, turn the tube right sides out.

9 -Press seams out.

Fold the seam allowance under where you left the opening and press in place.

10 -Fold the scarf in half and measure 10.5 inches/27 cm from the fold and mark both layers with a pin.

This is where you will stitch the scarf to create the pocket that will hold the beads. You don’t want the whole scarf to be filled with beads, just the portion that wraps around the neck. (Some folks like to make 3 separate pockets, and this works well if you are using the powder, but if you are using the beads, I find it’s not necessary and only takes more time).

11 -Sew vertical seams

Sew two seams where you marked with pins. Backstitch at the beginning and end of seam.

12 -Fill scarf with beads.

Now it’s time to fill the scarf with beads. Place a cookie sheet under your workspace so you don’t have beads rolling all over the place. YOU DON’T WANT PETS OR CHILDREN INGESTING THESE BEADS!!!! You can use a funnel that will fit the beads, but I find that you can just grab a handful and feed them into the hole you left. Fill one side and then the other. Don’t overfill as they may expand a little more and pop the seam.

13 -Sew the opening closed.

Once the scarf is full, place the opening edges together and clip in place. You can hand-sew the opening closed or I use the sewing machine. I prefer using a 1/8 inch seam allowance on the sewing machine, it’s much quicker.

14 -Clips threads and you’re finished.

15 -How to soak and hydrate the neck cooling scarf

The beads will eventually dry up, but it takes several days. To reactivate the neck cooling scarf, just soak it in water for a couple of hours. If you want to dry it out, just leave it in the sun.

The beads will shrivel up to almost nothing, allowing you to store the wrap flat until the next time you need it.

Some friends and I are currently making a bunch of these up and taking them to the homeless shelter, all hydrated and cooled.

Perhaps this could be a project for those in your own community who are out in this heat; just a little way to give back.

Get in your fabric stash and make a few neck cooling scarves for yourself, family, and those in need.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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neck cooling scarf Sewing Sewing tutorial sewing video

How To Make Beaded Coasters From Upcycled Sweaters

upcycled sweater beaded coasters youmakeitsimple.com

Coasters do more than protect your tables and counters. They can also add a pop of color to your room and give your cup of coffee or tea a happy place to land. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to make beaded coasters from upcycled sweaters.

Adding beads around the edges using the BLANKET STITCH, really gives the coasters texture and color. You can make them any shape you desire, however, I have the FREE PDF download for the circle and heart that you can get HERE.

This is a fun, relaxing, and easy project AND a set of these make great gifts!

WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL BELOW

BEADED COASTERS ITEMS NEEDED

Upcycled felted wool sweater/thick pieces of felt can also be used. (I hope you’ve been saving your sweater scraps)!
Embroidery thread (2-3 yards) Quilting thread can also be used especially for smaller beads.
Embroidery needle (make sure the beads you are using will fit through the needle).
Scissors
Beads of your choice (glass seed beads are a good option)
Sewing machine for quilting (OPTIONAL)

BEADED COASTERS INSTRUCTIONS

1. Cut out two circles (4.5 x 4.5 inches – 11.5 x 11.5 cm) * If you have a very thick felted sweater, only use one layer.
2. Separate the embroidery thread into 3 strands.
3. Thread the needle and knot the end.
4. Place the beads you want to use onto a spare piece of sweater or fabric to make loading beads easier.
5. Stack two circles on top of each other and line up the edges. If using the heart shape, start stitching at the notch of the heart.
6. Insert the needle between the two pieces of fabric about ¼ inch/ .5 cm from the edge. Take one stitch and poke the needle out at the edge of the fabric. Load a bead onto the needle and begin the BLANKET STITCH.
7. Take a stitch and make a loop, pull the needle through the loop MAKING SURE THE BEAD IS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE THREAD. Pull the thread taught and load another bead.
8. Continue this process all the way around.
9. To finish, take a tiny stitch, knot the thread. Insert the needle into the fabric close to the stitch and out between the two layers. Cut the thread.

You can leave the coaster just like this or you can quilt it or embroider a design in the center to give it a more dense texture.

If you want to use the sewing machine, attach the quilting foot and free-sew whatever design you want.

That’s it! Make a set for yourself and make some for your friends!

I’d love to see what you come up with. Tag your finished coasters on Instagram . youmakeitsimple.

****If you want to know about FELTING WOOL SWEATERS, check out this post.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Coasters free sewing pattern Sewing tutorial upcycled sweater projects upcycled sweaters Valentine gifts

Simple Christmas Stocking Sewing Tutorial | Lined With Contrasting Cuff

Christmas is just around the corner and what a great time to get out your sewing machine and make some fun holiday decorations. This Christmas stocking sewing tutorial is a very simple project that you can whip up in no time at all. The stocking is lined and has a contrasting cuff.

You can make these stockings out of all kinds of fabric.

WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Christmas Stocking Items & Materials Needed

Sewing machine/serger (optional)
PDF Pattern
Scissors
Upcycled Sweaters or fabric (cotton, cotton blends, corduroy, denim, fleece, etc.) Check out my upcycled sweater post for tips on using an upcycled sweater)
Lightweight fabric for OPTIONAL lining
Contrasting fabric for a cuff or the bottom cuff from an upcycled sweater
Pins/clips
Optional trim and embellishments

There are two different styles of the stocking. You can make them all one solid color, or piece several types of fabric together to get a patchwork design.

Christmas Stocking Instructions

Download and print the pattern. (Due to the size of the pattern, you will first need to assemble the pattern. Not a big deal).

Cutting Out

Two of the outer covering and two of the lining pieces.
One cuff piece, on the fold where indicated on the pattern. You can also use an upcycled sweater cuff. (The bottom edge of a sweater or the sleeve cuff can be used). If using a sweater cuff, you won’t need to double the fabric, so don’t place the pattern on the fold).

Loop piece, on the fold where indicated on the pattern

Sewing

You can use a serger or single needle machine to sew the Christmas stocking. All seams will be 3/8” (usually the edge of your pressure foot) and you will always backstitch at the beginning and end of seams unless directed otherwise.

With Right Sides Together (RST), place stocking front to back. Pin in place. Sew all the way around, leaving the top open.

CUFF:

Fold cuff piece in half (RST). Sew the side seam.

Fold the cuff over and in half so the right sides are facing out. (If you want to add lace or trim to the cuff, do it now)

With the seam on the left, press in place. Mark the halfway point with a pin, on the right.

PIECED STOCKING:

If you want a pieced look, like in the photo on top, follow the directions below. For a more rustic look, you can expose the seams on the outside of the stocking.
With (RST) place pieces A & B together matching darts. Pin in place and sew the seam.
Open the stocking up and with (RST) place on top of piece C, matching darts. Pin in place and sew the seam.
If you want more than three pieces sewn together, like the stocking on the left, you can sew several sweater strips together and then cut a front stocking piece.
Cut out a solid piece for the back.
Place these pieces (RST) matching seams and edges, pin in place. Sew all the way around leaving the top edge open.

LOOP:

Fold the loop piece in half (RST) along the long edge. Sew down the side seam.
Turn the tube inside out and press the seam to the center.
TIP: Take a safety pin and insert it into the fabric by the tube opening. Stick the pin in the tube and direct it to the opening at the other side. Pull it out and it will turn the fabric right side out!
Open up the loop, bringing the seam in the center, and press.
Fold the loop in half so the seam is on the inside.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

With the WRONG SIDE OF THE LINING FACING OUT, stuff it inside the outer stocking and stick your hand down in it to line it up nicely. Line up the seams.

Place the loop on the stocking lining, centered on the back seam. Pin in place.
Baste the loop onto the stocking. (No need to backstitch) You will be sewing through the lining, stocking, and the loop

SEWING THE CUFF ONTO THE STOCKING

Place the cuff inside the stocking, with the RIGHT side facing the stocking. (If using a sweater cuff, the sweater cuff seam will be facing out and visible).
Align the cuff seam with the stocking seam. (There will be 4 layers, 3 if using a sweater cuff)
Pin in place.
Sew all the way around, through all layers. Stretch and ease sweater cuff as needed.

Flip the cuff over. Press seam towards the stocking.
Flip the cuff down and Ta-dah…….You are ready to hang your stocking!

There is no limit to the color and fabric combinations that you can do. Make a stocking for each one in the family!

Have fun sewing. Reach out if you have any questions.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Unpicking Serger Stitches the EASY WAY

Sewing on a serger/overlock machine is wonderful, but when it comes to unpicking serger stitches, you may be overwhelmed and dreading the whole process.

I used to feel this way until I learned this slick and easy way to unpick, and I’m going to show you how it’s done. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been sewing or how good you are at it; there ARE going to be times that you’ll need to UNPICK! However, once you learn this technique, it won’t matter because it is so easy to do.

A serger stitch will either use three or four threads to form the stitch: two looper threads and one or two needle threads. In the photo above, I have used a different thread color for each stitch to show you what it looks like. (four-thread stitch).

Before I learned this trick, I would grab my unpicker and try to unpick each stitch. There were little cut threads everywhere, and it took FOREVER! It was so frustrating!

I seriously can’t believe I went so long sewing on a serger without knowing this little trick. It makes the process quick, and you don’t have to collect and dispose of all the cut threads.

UNPICKING SERGER STITCHES-HOW TO

The only stitches you are going to pull out are the needle threads. The photo above shows a four-needle thread stitch. The RED thread is the left needle stitch, the TAN thread is the right needle stitch, and the blue thread is a looper thread.

1. Take the unpicker, and with the point, grab the red thread, pull it, and cut it. Go down the seam another 1-2 inches and cut the needle thread again. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GRAB THE LOOPER THREADS, this will cause the seam to lock up and the threads will not pull out as easy.

Get ahold of one of the tails of the thread you just cut and ease and pull it out of the fabric. (Sometimes you can do the whole seam in one go). Continue this process until you’ve removed that left needle thread completely.

2. If you are using a four-thread, you’ll need to remove the right needle thread as well.

Finding the right needle thread can be tricky if you use the same thread color as the fabric. (A trick to finding the stitch is to take your unpicker tip and glide it down the little v shape that the looper makes; it will slide right into the right needle stitch.)

It may seem like a lot of work, but trust me, it goes quickly, and you’ll love the results.

3. Here’s the fun part! Once the needle threads are removed, all you need to do is grab the looper threads, give a little pull, and voilà! It will unravel like a dream. There won’t be all those little threads to gather, and you’ll be on your way to re-sewing your seam.

I hope this saves you some grief while sewing. Be sure to comment if you have some great sewing tips for us!

Here are some other sewing blog posts you may be interested in:

OVERLOCK STITCH | NO SERGER NEEDED

SEWING BY HAND | MOST IMPORTANT STITCHES TO KNOW

Have fun sewing and UNPICKING!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Adjustable Face Mask Earloops Tutorial – No Beads

For those of you who are STILL MAKING FACE MASKS, I am going to show you how to make adjustable face mask earloops that are comfortable and don’t require any beads or other hardware. This simple slip knot technique is easy to do and makes adjusting your mask a snap. You can sew these earloops into any of your favorite mask designs.

The secret for comfort is the stretchy fabric strips. You can make your own using upcycled t-shirts, tights, leggings (watch the tutorial HERE) and read this post for some great face mask tie ideas and tips. Or you can simply buy the fabric already cut, stretched, and rolled onto a bolt.

I love this product from FARMYARN. It’s 100% recycled selvage edges from stretchy lycra fabric, and it’s very reasonably priced.

So if you’re making a lot of masks, this is the route I recommend! This stuff can also be used for so many other things and it’s much more comfortable than scratchy elastic! You can purchase it from several places. Here are a few. Amazon, Etsy, and ebay.

Do you have a bunch of tie face masks that you want to convert over to earloops? I have that covered. This post and video tutorial will show you just how to do that.

ITEMS AND MATERIALS NEEDED

Stretchy fabric strips / 2 – 9 inches (23 cm), 2 – 6 inches (15.5 cm)
Scissors
Face mask to put them in (Check out my face mask patterns HERE)

I have a Youtube video that you can watch and it really helps if you’re a visual person (like me). You can access the video at the end of the post.

FACE MASK EARLOOPS INSTRUCTIONS

1-Take the small strip and make a small loop at the bottom of the strip.

2-Wrap the long end around the loop and poke through the loop.

3-Pull it through while you’re holding onto the two ends to tighten. (Don’t tighten all the way at this point).

4-Take the long strip and make a knot at one end. (This will keep the strip from pulling through the loop when washing your mask). Thread the other end through the loop you just made and cinch it up by pulling the strip that slides to tighten. (You want it to be able to slide, but also be able to hold in place).

5-Hold the two slip knot ends and cut to even length.

6-Do the same thing to make a set.

HOW TO SEW FACE MASK EARLOOPS INTO MASK

1-Insert the end of the strip without the knot, into the top side of the mask. (Just below the top seam allowance) Allow the strip to overhang the mask by about 1/2 inch.

2-Place the two slip knot strips at the bottom side of the mask, just above the seam allowance, and sticking out 1/2 past the edge of the fabric. TIP: Take a strip of masking tape and tape the knotted end the sliding stip to the inside and out of the way, so it won’t get sewn into the seam.

3-Do the same thing for the other earloop set.

4-Proceed with your face mask directions sewing the earloops into the side seams of the mask. Make sure to leave an opening for turning the mask inside out.

5- Turn inside out, remove the tape, clip seams, and proceed with your face mask instructions.

I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions.

My other FACE MASK VIDEOS

Happy face mask making!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Easily Customize Your DIY Fabric Labels / Quick and Simple

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DIY Cut Off Shorts | 4 Simple Hemming Methods

Making a pair of DIY cut off shorts is a snap with these 4 simple hemming methods. This is a great way to recycle and save a lot of money! As you know, I like to upcycle and re-purpose items. Clothing is one of them.

Cutting off a long pair of pants and making a pair of shorts is one of the simplest upcycling projects there is. I am going to show you FOUR different ways to hem your cut-off shorts.

I recommend watching the video tutorial which will walk you through all four of these methods step-by-step!

Cut Off & Fray
Rolled Hem
Cuffed Hem
Trouser Hem

What you’ll need to make a pair of cut-off shorts

Pair of pants

Pants of all kinds can be used. Jeans are one of my favorite things to cut off. So if you have a pair of jeans that have holes in them, don’t throw them out, make SHORTS!

If you don’t have a pair of pants you want to cut off, thrift stores, consignment shops, and yard sales are great places to pick up an inexpensive pair of pants.

Scissors
Sewing machine (optional)
Pins
Needle & Thread (optional)
Chalk pen (optional)
Seam gauge
Iron

How long do you want your cut-off shorts?

Whichever way you choose to hem your cut-offs; the first thing you’ll need to do is decide HOW LONG YOU WANT THEM.

The easiest way is to take a pair of shorts that you already have and like the length and use them as a template. Or you can simply try the pants on and carefully apply a straight pin at the DESIRED LENGTH. DO NOT CUT OFF AT THIS POINT!

Once you’ve decided how long you want your shorts, it’s time to decide how you want to finish the edge.

If you are using an existing pair of shorts as a template, simply lay the shorts on top of the long pair of pants you are cutting off. Line up the CROTCH SEAM, NOT THE WAISTLINE. (Some pants have a longer waist height than others). Make sure the waist is lined up horizontally so you get an even cut.

Depending on what hem style you are using, you’ll either be cutting off at the DESIRED LENGTH or ADDING TO THE LENGTH.

CUT OFF & FRAY – Cut off at that length.

ROLLED HEM – Add ¾ inch

CUFFED HEM – Add 2 inches

TROUSER HEM – Add 1 3/8 INCHES

1 Cut Off & Fray

The “cut off & fray method” is the simplest and quickest way to finish a pair of shorts.

Cut off one pant leg at the DESIRED LENGTH.
Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.
Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

You can leave the fabric unfinished and just the fabric fray out. I recommend sewing around the leg with a straight stitch ¼ – ½ inch from the cut edge. This will keep the fray to a minimum. This is a preference only.

2 Rolled Hem

Using a seam gauge, measure ¾ inch from the DESIRED LENGTH MARK. Make sure the top of the waist is even and straight. Use a chalk pen or disappearing ink pen and draw a cutting line.

Cut off one pant leg.

Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.

Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

Fold the edge up 3/8 inch and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place.

Topstitch just inside the fold all the way around, starting at the inner thigh seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Repeat on the other pant leg. Finished cut edge by using a serger, or the zigzag stitch of a single needle machine.

Fold the edge up, wrong sides together, 3/8 inch, and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place.

Finish cut edge by using a serger, or the zigzag stitch of a single needle machine.

Fold the edge up, wrong sides together, 3/8 inch, and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place

Tack the cuff in place so it does not come undone while laundering. To do this, simply sew along the side seams of the cuff using the sewing machine or you can do this by hand.

4 Trouser Hem

This hemming method is a good one to use if you want a more finished look. Dress pants and trousers with a lighter weight fabric work well.

Using a seam gauge, measure 1 3/8 inches from the DESIRED LENGTH MARK. Make sure the top of the waist is even and straight. Using a chalk pen or disappearing ink pen and draw a cutting line.
Cut off one pant leg.
Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.
Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

Fold the cut edge up 3/8 inch and press.

Now fold another 1 inch. Press and pin in place.

There are a few ways to finish this hem. You can topstitch with a single or double stitch or you can use the BLIND HEM STITCH. The blind hem stitch can be done by hand or by using the sewing machine. You can watch the blind hem video tutorial HERE.

There you have it; four different ways to make a pair of cut-off shorts from an upcycled pair of pants. It’s pretty simple and straightforward. Let me know if you have any questions.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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DIY FELT CHERRIES Easy Sewing Tutorial

Summer has arrived, and it will soon be cherry season. This DIY felt cherries easy sewing tutorial is a fun little project that you can make in no time at all.

There are so many fun ways to use these bright, red gems.

Add a key chain and hang it on your purse or backpack.
Glue a magnet on the back and display them on your fridge,
or embellish your gift wrapping.

These cherries can be made using an upcycled red sweater, red fleece, red knit fabric, regular woven fabric, or felt scraps.

Felted wool sweater fabric really adds a unique charm to a set of cherries.

So get into your upcycled wool sweater stash and see if you can find a piece of red felted wool.

FELT CHERRIES MATERIALS AND ITEMS NEEDED:

Red Fabric
Stuffing
Needle & Thread (upholstery thread)
Scissors
7 inches Suede Chord (1/8 inch)
Key chain ring & Lobster clasp (optional)
Green felt
Glue Gun/Glue and or Tacky Glue
Small round magnet (fridge magnet)
Download and print the pattern

FELT CHERRIES INSTRUCTIONS

Cut Out

2 cherries from red fabric
One dark green rectangle and one leaf from light green felt
Cut a strip of cord to 7 inches.

Apply cord to ring, knotting in the center of cord. Set aside.

Single thread the needle and knot the end.

Using a running stitch, sew around the perimeter of cherry piece ¼ from the edge of the fabric with the knot on the inside of the fabric.

End by poking the needle to the outside, and leave it unknotted. Pull the thread to gather fabric and form a cup.

Insert stuffing into the formed cup. It doesn’t take a lot of stuffing.

Continue stitching around and around using the same seam allowance and pulling to cinch. This will eventually stay cinched.

Push the seam allowance into the inside and pull thread tight.

When the gathering stays cinched you can insert the end of one of the stems into to hole.

Push in about a ½. Sew around the stem and then insert the needle into and through the stem to secure it in place. (These may be a little challenging and will take a little force to poke it through).

Take some more stitches around until the stem is secured in place.

To knot, simply take a tiny stitch at the base of the thread leaving a little loop.

Wrap the needle around the loop and pull to form a knot.

Poke the needle back into the cherry and out the bottom. Cut the thread close to the fabric.

Repeat this process with the other cherry.

TO MAKE LEAF

There are several different ways to finish the leaf. You can just glue the two pieces together with a small leaf centered on top of the bigger leaf, or you can sew them together using a blanket stitch or embroidery the leaf veins using green embroidery floss.

● Center the small leaf on top of the dark green rectangle. Edge the small leaf using a blanket stitch on the sewing machine or sew by hand.
● Embroider the veins (optional).
● Cut out the leaf backing about a ¼ inch from the inner leaf edge.

Leaf Application

Using the hot glue gun, apply a small dab of glue onto the stem knot. Wrap the tip of the leaf around the stem knot and around the key ring. Pinch in place.

SEE THE LEAF TUTORIAL HERE

CHERRY FRIDGE MAGNET

Apply a dab of glue onto the back of a small round magnet and stick it to the back of the leaf.

Tadah! Now wasn’t that simple?

Have fun creating and let me know if you have any questions.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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FACE MASK Minimal Sewing Method | It’s A Cinch

Making a face mask just got even easier! This DIY face mask minimal sewing method can be made either by a sewing machine or by hand. It’s really a cinch, literally! Instead of pleating, I teach you how to create a comfortable fitting face mask using a new CINCHING METHOD.

This adult face mask has four protective layers and an easy to access filter pocket that is accessed from the bottom of the mask, out of the way from your mouth. The ties are made from upcycled t-shirts which makes this mask comfortable to wear. I have given the measurements for a TEEN AND CHILD MASK as well.

Recycle an old t-shirt or use a cotton piece of fabric to make your mask. I will demonstrate the sewing machine and hand sewing method in this tutorial.

Face Mask Minimal Sewing Method Materials and Items Needed

FABRIC (14.91 cm) cotton fabric, knit fabric, or upcycled t-shirts (cut 16 ½ x 16 ½ inch)
SCISSORS/ROTARY CUTTER (OPTIONAL)
PINS/CLIPS (OPTIONAL) I LOVE THESE FABRIC CLIPS!
RULER/SEAM GAUGE
SEWING MACHINE (OPTIONAL-can be sewn by hand)
BAG TWIST TIES, CRAFT PIPE CLEANERS (If using craft pipe cleaners, cut to 4 inch
IRON
UPCYCLED T-SHIRT/ OR KNIT FABRIC (for the mask ties)
Safety Pin
Needle & Thread, if sewing by hand.

Cutting Out Mask

Cut the fabric to the correct measurement for the size.

ADULT: Fabric 16.5 x 16.5 inches (14.91 x 14.91. cm)
TEEN: Fabric 15.5 x 15.5 inches (39.7 x 39.7cm)
CHILD: Fabric 14.5 x 14.5 inches (36.83 cm)

Upcycled T-Shirt

Cut off the bottom 16.5 inches of the shirt, LEAVE THE HEM INTACT!

Cut the same width (16.5 wide).

Woven Fabric

Cut a piece of fabric 16.5 x 16.5 inches.

Cutting Out Ties

The beauty of knit fabric is that it doesn’t fray, and when pulled it will curl. You may be asking why do we want it to curl? When it curls it creates a little tube, like an enclosed tie, but you don’t have to sew it to keep it that way like you would a woven fabric.

If you don’t have any knit fabric or T-shirts to make ties with, I found a great resource where you can purchase this stuff already made. It’s called “FARMYARN”. This yarn is made from recycled lycra fabric that is REALLY stretchy and durable. It’s like elastic and can be used in so many ways ie: FACE MASKS! You can read more about it and buy it HERE.

Read the face mask tie tutorial HERE.

Cut two strips either crosswise or lengthwise 1 inch wide. (2.5) cm

Cutting along the bottom of a t-shirt, the fabric will curl and expose the wrong side of the fabric.

(Which doesn’t matter if using a plain color, preference only).

But if you want the right side of the fabric exposed, cut the shirt lengthwise.

Pull the strips to stretch and curl the fabric.

You can either have the ties tie over the head and behind the neck, or you can make it so you have a continuous permanent loop behind your neck. (That way you don’t have to tie it every time) I personally just like regular ties.

CUT TWO STRIPS 32 INCHES (58.42 cm) long

CONTINUOUS STRIP 33 INCHES (83.82 cm) long

If you don’t have a strip long enough, you can sew two pieces together.

Sewing Instructions

Fold the fabric in half with Right Sides Together (RST).

(T-Shirt fabric, have the hem edge be on the side).

Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, sew along the long unfinished edge using a straight stitch or sew by hand USING A RUNNING STITCH. Backstitch at the beginning and end of all seams.

Turn inside out.

WOVEN FABRIC: Fold unfinished edges under ¼ inch and press in place. Do this on both sides.

T SHIRT/KNIT FABRIC: Skip this step. (Knit fabric will not fray).

Fold WRONG SIDES TOGETHER making a shorter tube.

Line up pressed edges of the two layers.

WOVEN FABRIC: Sew the 2 layers together, topstitching close to the edge.

You will start at one point and sew around until you meet the starting point (Sewing around the tube). Backstitch.

T-SHIRT/KNIT FABRIC: Skip this step

Applying Nose Wire

Take the twist tie or pipe cleaner and insert it between the two FOLDED EDGES of the doubled tube.

(Opposite of where you just topstitched)

(If using a pipe cleaner, barely fold the ends under and crimp in place. This will keep the sharp point from poking through the fabric!).

Center it side to side and down ¼ inch from the top edge. The wire will be sandwiched between the two layers. Clamp or pin in place.

Make a casing for the wire so it stays in place when washing the mask.

If sewing by hand, use a simple running stitch.

Feel with your fingers where the edge of the wire is and start stitching down from the top a few stitches. (You will be sewing through all four layers of fabric). Leave your needle in and lift up presser foot and pivot fabric.

Sew along the bottom of the wire to the other edge of the wire (feeling with your fingers where that is).

Pivot and sew back up to the top edge. Leave your needle in and pivot again to sew along the top edge. You will have sewn a little box around the nose wire.

Sewing Tie Casings

Sew down the sides of the mask ½ inch from the edge.

If sewing by hand, you can just use a simple running stitch.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Inserting Mask Ties

Attach the safety pin to the end of the tie.

CONTINUOUS TIE:

Thread the tie into the casing starting at the top of the mask. Pull out and continue threading the other side from the bottom up to the top.

REGULAR DOUBLE TIE:

Thread each tie into the casing.

Cinching the sides of mask to gather.

No Pleats, Yea!

CONTINUOUS TIES:

Decide how tight you want the neckband to be by trying the mask on. Once you’ve situated it and it feels tight enough, clamp in place. Remove mask.

Take the ends of the ties and hold them together. Pull to gather each side of the mask until the gathered section measures 4 inches.

Repeat on the other side.

REGULAR DOUBLE TIES:

Take the ends of the ties and hold together. Cinch the fabric to gather evenly until the gathered fabric area measures 4 inches. CLAMP IN PLACE OR PIN IN PLACE.

Tacking down ties

Sew the ties in place by sewing back and forth over the end of the casings, making sure to catch the ties underneath.

Repeat on both sides of mask. (This can be done by hand or by sewing machine).

Mask Care:

Masks can be washed and dried with other clothing.

See my other face mask tutorials HERE.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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SEWING BY HAND | Most Important Stitches to Know

Knowing how to sew these 3 basic stitches will allow you to mend and create items that you might not be able to because you don’t have a sewing machine.

Although there are several other hand sewing stitches and techniques, I will only show you the basting or running stitch, the stretch stitch or herringbone stitch, and the backstitch.

Items Needed:

All-purpose thread
Scissors
Needle

(I recommend getting a variety of needles to have handy for different projects). For basic hand sewing, use a sharp or a milliner. You can get more technical with eye size and point types, but choose a mid-sized one for now.

Thimble (optional)
Needle threader (optional)

I recommend purchasing or making your own little sewing kit. This one comes with everything you’ll need, including my favorite fabric clips and small scissors.

It comes in several thread colors for those small mending projects.

Threading the needle

You can either use a single or double thread. I use a double thread for most projects. Please don’t get the thread too long, or it may be prone to tangling while sewing.

A good length is around 16 inches after doubling.

Knotting the thread

Unless you are just basting, each seam will need to start and end with an anchor stitch.

This is where you knot the thread so it will not come undone. You can make a knot at the end of your thread for most projects.

To do this, take the ends of the thread and wrap them around your pointer finger, then roll the thread between your fingers. Gently pull the thread, and it will create a little knot.

Then you’re ready to begin. To make a knot at the end of the seam, pull the needle to the backside and take a tiny stitch, leaving a little loop.

Wrap the needle around the loop once and pull the thread. This will knot the thread.

You can use an anchor stitch if you don’t want the bulk of a bunch of knots when you’re sewing by hand.

Take a tiny stitch and then another little stitch right by it. Then start your stitching. You can end a seam the same way.

SEWING BY HAND stitches that are important to know

Basting stitch/Running Stitch

The basting stitch/running stitch is excellent for temporarily holding pieces of fabric together or for quick seams that don’t need to be sturdy.

This stitch can also gather fabric for ruffles or easing in.

Take the needle in and out of the fabric with ¼ to ½ inch long stitches.

Take several stitches at a time by popping the needle in and out of the fabric before pulling through.

Stretch Stitch/Herringbone Stitch

This stitch has several names. I like to call it a hand stretch stitch because it works so well with stretchy fabrics. (The seam won’t pop and break like a straight stitch will when sewn on knit fabrics).

You can also use it for hemming and decorative embroidery and quilt making.

Drawing two horizontal lines with a washable pencil or chalk will help as a guide while sewing by hand.

Work the stitch from left to right, making little back stitches and crossing over to the other line at a diagonal.

Backstitch

The backstitch is one of the strongest, most adaptable stitches.

It mimics the straight stitch you would see on a sewing machine and is useful for simple mending jobs and other small projects. It is also useful if you plan on sewing your own clothing by hand.

To keep your seam as straight and tidy as possible, it’s helpful to mark the stitching line with a thin pencil line. You can use a sharp pencil, chalk pen, or washable ink.

On straight seams, use a ruler.

Push the needle into the fabric where you want to start the seam.

Bring the needle back through both layers of fabric just in front of the previous stitch.

Push the needle back into the fabric between where the needle came in and out of the fabric to create the first stitch.

These stitches can touch each other, as you see here, or you can space them a little farther apart.

Continue this pattern until you are at the end of the seam. Push the needle to the back side and take your anchor stitch and knot in place.

Pin your project to a firm bolster or pillow. This will allow you to sew a lot faster.

I hope this makes sewing by hand less intimidating and helps you understand how to use these three basic stitches.

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Simplified FACE MASK / No Elastic / Filter Pocket / Upcycled T-Shirt Ties

As you most likely have heard, face masks are in huge demand right now, as we experience this COVID-19 pandemic. There is a BIG movement going on with crafters making and donating homemade masks. Forbes even wrote an article calling all people who sew to help with the face mask shortage.

However, before you go crazy and start mass-producing a bunch of masks, I think it’s important that you get informed on the mask-wearing facts. I know there is A LOT controversy over their effectiveness and use, but from my research here are a few resources that I think are reliable.

This HUFFPOST article is loaded with links to who should and should not wear a mask, how effective homemade masks are and they even recommend some mask patterns. The World Health Organization has some good videos showing when to use a mask and other tips to protect against the coronavirus.

The purpose of this post is not to educate about the COVID-19 virus, but to show you how easy it is to make a simplified face mask for yourself, your family or serve the community by making and donating them, if you choose.

Get informed!

I encourage you to be informed. Call your local hospitals, healthcare facilities, and see what their needs are. If they are taking homemade masks and could use them, by all means, get out your sewing machines and your fabric stash and get your little sewing fingers moving!!!!!

I’m sure you’ve seen a ton of different styles and patterns of masks out there and most of them call for elastic. If you’ve tried to buy elastic lately, you’ll find that most stores are out of stock. NO WORRIES! You can make this face mask without elastic using an upcycled t-shirt!

This face mask has

No Elastic
A Filter Pocket
Wire Nose Clamp
Upcycled T-Shirt Ties

Material and Items Needed

FABRIC
SCISSORS/ROTARY CUTTER (OPTIONAL)
PINS/CLIPS (OPTIONAL)
RULER
SEWING MACHINE
CRAFT PIPE CLEANERS/ or BAG TWIST TIES, (If using PIPE CLEANERS, cut to 4 inches).
IRON
UPCYCLED T-SHIRT/ OR KNIT FABRIC
PRINTABLE CUTTING GUIDE AND PLEAT GUIDE

YOU CAN GET THE FULL PRINTABLE TUTORIAL AND PATTERN HERE.

If you do not sew and would like to purchase a face mask already made, I have them in my Etsy shop HERE.

If you don’t have any knit fabric or T-shirts to make ties with, I found a great resource where you can purchase this stuff already made. It’s called “FARMYARN”. This yarn is made from recycled lycra fabric that is REALLY stretchy and durable. It’s like elastic and can be used in so many ways ie: FACE MASKS! You can read more about it and buy it HERE.

INSTRUCTIONS

1- Cutting Out Face Mask

ADULT: Fabric 14 1/2 inches x 8 inches (36.8 cm x 20.3 cm).
TEEN: Fabric 13 3/4 inches x 7 inches
CHILD: Fabric 13 inches x 6 inches

2- Cutting Out Ties

The beauty of knit fabric, is that it doesn’t fray, and when pulled it will curl. You may be asking why do we want it to curl? When it curls it creates a little tube, like an enclosed tie, but you don’t have to sew it to keep it that way like you would a woven fabric.

Cut two strips either crosswise or lengthwise 1 inch wide. (2.5) cm

Cutting along the bottom of a t-shirt, the fabric will curl and expose the wrong side of the fabric. (Which doesn’t matter if using a plain color, preference only). But if you want the right side of the fabric exposed, cut the shirt lengthwise as shown in the diagram above.

Pull the strips to stretch and curl the fabric.

Cut ties to 15 inches (38.1) cm

3- Finish the edges of the short sides of the mask piece using a serger or zigzag stitch.

4- Place the right sides together of the SHORT ENDS of the mask piece.

ADULT: Measure 1 ½ inches from both sides and mark with a pin.
TEEN: Measure 1 inch from edges
CHILD: Measure 3/4 inch from edges.

5- Using a straight stitch, sew from the edge to the pin.

Backstitch. Sew the other end the same way.

6- Open up seam and press.

7- Topstitch along both sides of the seam.

(It’s easiest to keep the wrong side out and sew inside the tube you just made).

8- Place seam 1/2 inch from the top fold

Press.

9- Sewing the Face mask ties

Take the ties and place the ends in the corners of the mask, making sure they butt up against the fold. Allow the ends to stick out a bit to make sure you are catching them in the seam. Pin or clamp in place. Pull the tie ends out of the hole to keep them out of your way.

I love these little fabric clamps, but pins work just fine.

Sew down the sides of the mask, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.

Clip corners.

10- Turn inside out.

Poke out the corners and press.

11- Mark and sew pleats

Lay the pleat guide along the edge of the mask and place pins in to mark folding points. There should be 6 pins on each side, as indicated in the photo above.

Fold the top pin down to meet the second pin. Clip fold in place using the fabric pins or pin in place. Continue this process until all three pleats have been formed.

If you are making a lot of these masks after a while you won’t need to measure and pin, you’ll be able to just eyeball it.

Repeat this on the other side. Press pleats in place.

12-Top stitch along the side edges of the mask.

First pass sew close 1/4 inch from the edge, and the second pass sew close to the edge.

13- Wire Nose Clamp

Take the pipe cleaner or wire that you are using and insert it through the hole in the back of the mask. Align it at the TOP of the mask and center. Make sure it is against the folded edge of the mask.

Sew along the top edge at 1/2 inch seam allowance to create a casing for the wire.

Sew along the bottom edge as well to reinforce and stabilize the mask.

There you have it.

Keep in mind that these masks MAY not prevent us from contracting Covid-19, but they can act as a physical reminder for us to keep our hands away from our face, and when it comes down to it, they may be better than nothing as a protective barrier.

If you think that a handmade mask cannot be used, think again. Even the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has a place for them — in times of crisis, like the one we are in right now. On the CDC page: Strategies for Optimizing the Supply of Facemasks, they explain that as a last resort, a homemade mask is acceptable.

NEED A GENUINE N95 Respirator Mask Reusable, (FDA Registered) Face Mask?

Check out this reputable source

Take care my dear friends! We are all in this together!

Sending love to all of you!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Easily Customize Your DIY Fabric Labels / Quick and Simple

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face mask free sewing pattern Sewing Sewing tutorial sewing video

DIY Fabric Carrots Sewing Tutorial

It is almost Easter time, and what a great time to get out your sweater stash and make SWEATER carrots.

Yep, fabric CARROTS! What can’t you make out of upcycled sweaters? Now, if you are short on ORANGE SWEATERS or don’t have any felted orange sweaters, these work great with orange fleece and knits.

These make really fun Easter gifts and party favors.

****Carrots are NOT recommended for baby toys!

Cute to display with a SWEATER BUNNY! Bunny & Bear pattern located in my shop.

Fabric carrots items needed:

Orange fabric (felted sweaters, fleece, or knit). If using felted sweaters, ensure they are not too thick and have a little stretch.
Scissors
Pins
Carrot pattern template (download here)

Cloth stem wire (18-20 gauge)
Green felt, felted wool scrap, or even green fleece works (carrot greens), green yarn (optional)
Needle and thread
Stuffing

Fold the fabric over in a diagonal shape and place the pattern edge on the fold where indicated.

Cut out.

Place Right Sides Together (RST) and sew the side seam with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Turn inside out and poke the tip of the carrot out with some kind of point tool, being careful not to poke through the fabric.

To make the fabric carrot greens:

Using the pattern template, cut out 3-4 leaf squares. Sew the wire onto the middle of the leaf using a zigzag stitch. (template will show how far down to place the wire).

Cut little slits in the leaf all around the side and top of square.

Round off the top corners with your scissors.

Fluff the leaf. Repeat to make however many stems you want.

Start filling the carrot with stuffing, a little amount at a time.

Using something to push it down. I find the pokey tool slips through the stuffing and doesn’t push it down. (I found that using the tip of my scissors works well)

Continue to fill the sweater carrot with stuffing until it is complete.

Double thread a LONG needle with either orange, brown, or green thread.

(I like to use either brown or green to give the dimples in the carrot some contrast). Your preference.

Start stitching so the knot is on the INSIDE.

Take basting stitches all the way around the top of the carrot.

End stitching with the thread on the OUTSIDE.

Do not KNOT the thread yet.

Take the stems and stick them down the center of the carrot into the stuffing, to the length you want them.

Now pull the stitching to gather the top of the carrot.

Stuff the fabric seam allowance into the carrot as you put the thread.

Now stitch another row or two around the carrot to close the top tightly around the stems.

Take a little stitch where the thread comes out and knot.

(To make a knot, take a small stitch and pull the thread to make a little loop, then wrap the thread around the needle a few times and gently pull to create a knot.

Stick the needle back into the carrot right where the knot is and pull out where you want to make the first dimple.

To make little dimples in the sweater carrot:

Pull the needle out where you want the dimple to start and take a big stitch (these stitches can be small or even wrap around the carrot).

These dimples give the carrot its character and shape. I like to take two stitches in the same place to reinforce the stitch and give it more shape.

Stick the needle down into where you want another dimple to be. Add as many as you want.

Knot the thread again.

Now stick the needle back in where the thread comes out. Poke out somewhere and clip the thread.

Ta dah!

Aren’t they cute little fellas?

The pattern template comes with two different sizes. Make up a bunch of sizes and some with different shades of orange.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Tissue Paper Blossoms | Quick & Simple Craft

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Easter Easter crafts Easter Gifts fabric carrots free sewing pattern Sewing Sewing tutorial upcycled sweater projects

DIY Ironing Board Cover: Sewing Tutorial

Does your ironing board cover have stains, rips, or is it just looking cruddy? Perhaps it’s time to replace it, and I’m going to show you how to easily make your own!

It’s an easy sewing project that you can make in no time at all.

Not only will you save money by making your own cover, but you can customize it by choosing the fabric.

There are so many options. I will demonstrate on a mini ironing board, but you can do the same thing with a full-size ironing board. (You will obviously need more fabric, elastic, and bias tape to cover a full-size board).

By the way, I love my little mini ironing board! It is great because there are so many little ironing projects (my sewing projects) that don’t require the big one.

I can just throw it on my countertop and go to town. It saves so much room and stores away really nicely. The legs can fold down. This is the one I prefer.

It comes with a cover, but I have already replaced mine due to iron water stains. However, making a new cover is NOT a big deal if you know how. 🙂

If you are a visual learner, the short video tutorial will show you the process step by step and give extra bonus tips. Check it out below.

Ironing board cover items and materials needed

1 1/2 yards 1/4 inch elastic
Pins
1 yard cotton fabric (or recycled cotton sheet)
Fabric or paper for the pattern (I like to use a recycled sheet or inexpensive muslin fabric)
Scissors
Sewing machine
Safety pin
1 package wide single-fold bias tape (or learn how easy it is to make your own)
Seam gauge/or ruler
Chalk pen/or pencil
New padding – optional (cotton batting or thin foam)

Instructions

1 – Make a pattern

Place the board wrong side up on top of the material you are using for the pattern (paper or cloth).

Using a seam gauge or measuring tape, measure 1 ½ inches away from the edge of the board and mark with a pencil or chalk.

Connect markings to create an outline. Cut out along the line.

2 – Save the pattern in a marked envelope for later use.

This means you don’t have to trace the board every time you want a new one.

3 – Take the pattern and place it on top of the fabric you’re using to make the cover.

Pin in place and cut out.

If you need a new pad, cut one out using a piece of cotton batting or thin foam. (You may want to double the batting.

4 – Apply the bias tape.

With the right side of the fabric facing up, apply the bias tape to the edge of the fabric.

Start at the bottom middle of the board. Line up edges and pin in place. Curve the tape around the corners.

When you get to the beginning, overlap the bias tape by 1 inch and cut.

Fold the edge of the bias tape on the bottom up by ½ inch and place the other end over the top. (This is where you will be inserting the elastic.)

5 – Sew the bias tape onto the cover.

Start at the overlapped tape and sew all the way around. Sew in the pre-pressed fold of the bias tape close to the edge.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

6 – Fold the bias tape over and topstitch, just inside the fold, all the way around.

7 – Apply the safety pin to the end of the elastic.

8 – Apply the safety pin to the end of the elastic.

9 – Insert a safety pin into the little hole you created with bias tape and thread all the way around, pulling as you go.

(Make sure you don’t pull too much and lose the end of the elastic). I like to pin the end when I start getting close to the end of the elastic.

10 – Place the cover onto the ironing board and adjust the elastic to fit.

Overlap elastic to fit and pin in place.

11 – Sew ends of elastic in place with the sewing machine and cut off extra elastic.

12 – Even out the fabric and elastic.

13-Remove cover and topstitch folded ends of the bias tape to keep it from fraying when washed.

There you have it, a nice new, clean, and stylish ironing board cover.

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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ironing board cover Sewing Sewing tutorial

Heart Lollipops: Made with Upcycled Sweaters & Felt

Here it is almost Valentine’s Day, and that means craft time to me. I am always looking for new things to make using my favorite felted wool sweater scraps, and these heart lollipops are the cutest!

It’s a quick little project that you can whip up in no time at all. Trust me, you won’t be able to make just one.

Of course, you can make these hearts with regular felt, but a felted wool sweater just adds so much character and texture. (I hope you’ve been saving all your felted wool sweater scraps)! They really do come in handy for a lot of things.

What do you do with heart lollipops?

You can’t eat them, but you can:

Stick them in a potted plant to decorate your home
Embellish a valentine gift wrapping
Place one in a plant that you are giving as a gift
Put a bundle of them in a small vase and give as a gift.
Leave the stick off, and add a loop to hang the heart on a doorknob or wall.

What you’ll need:

The pattern downloaded, printed and cut out. GET THE PATTERN HERE.

fabric scissors
embroidery needle and embroidery floss ( about a yard and a half for one heart)
felt or felted wool sweater (one that won’t fray)
Bamboo skewers, or sucker sticks
glue gun and glue sticks
fiber fill stuffing

Instructions:

Watch the VIDEO TUTORIAL at the end of the post

Cut out 2 hearts.

Thread the needle with 3 strands of embroidery floss. (Embroidery floss usually comes in a skein of 6 strands) I like to split it into half, making it not so bulky.

Knot the end of the thread and take a stitch right at the point, with the knot sandwiched in middle so it doesn’t’ show.

Sew around the heart using a BLANKET STITCH. If you are not familiar with this stitch, you can watch a tutorial here.

Stop about an inch from where you started.

Add a little stuffing to puff it up a bit, but not too much!

Add a little dollop of hot glue to one end of the stick and poke it inside the heart, and inside of the stuffing.

Continue sewing until you come to the bottom point of the heart. Wrap the needle around the stick and take another small stitch to knot the end.

Insert the needle back into the fabric right on top of a previous stitch and pull the needle out in the middle of the heart.

Clip the thread.

You can place it in a small cellophane bag and tie a bow around it, or leave unwrapped.

Another way to make the heart is to leave the stick out and add a loop for hanging.

If you choose to sew them up this way, start sewing at the top notch of the heart instead of the bottom of the heart.

Make a loop with a piece of jute or ribbon and make a knot at the end. Insert that into the heart before you stitch the opening up.

Be sure to check these posts for some other Valentine’s ideas.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

crafts gift ideas Sewing tutorial sweater hearts upcycled sweater hearts upcycled sweater projects upcycled sweaters Valentine Ideas

DIY Sewing Machine Bookbinding: Paper Meets Fabric

Two of my favorite materials to work with are unique PAPERS and FABRIC. In this DIY bookbinding tutorial, I am going to show you a project where the paper meets fabric. Bookbinding has always fascinated me and I have dappled in different ways to do it. In this post, I will be showing you how to bind a booklet using a sewing machine and how to apply a strip of fabric or (of course) a strip of an upcycled sweater.

I use this sewing method all the time when I make booklets to put in my traveler’s journal. Such a unique way to add charm to your planning!

It’s really quite simple, and of course, there is always a feeling of satisfaction that comes with it. The joy of making something with your own hands is what motivates those of us who like to diy (DO IT YOURSELF).

The thing is, if I’m going to spend time making something, it better be useful. These little booklets are very useful.

What do you use these booklets for?

Journals

Calendars

Notes

Health journals (I print out a monthly health journal and this bookbinding method works like a charm).
Sketch booklet
Gifts

There are several ways to finish the binding edge: fabrics, felt, thin felted sweater, or nothing at all. There are times when I just bind the center without fabric like my health journals. These are something that I print out every month.

Items and things you’ll need for this DIY bookbinding project

7-10 sheets of paper (any size)
Cardstock cover paper (optional)
Sewing machine
Paper clips
Scissors
Extra sheet of paper that is cut the same size as your inner sheets for guide (I recommend using a paper that is a different color than the booklet paper, so you can have a contrast)
Durable needle for your machine (universal size 100, or denim needle works great)
Ruler
paper cutter (optional) I really like this one and have had it for years!
Exacto knife
Corner punch (optional)

Fabric Binding

Fabric strip cut to 1 ½ inches x length of booklet PLUS 1 inch
Heat & Bond (lite) cut the same as your fabric strip
Iron and ironing board

FELT OR SWEATER

A strip of felt or felted sweater cut 1 ¾ inch x length of booklet PLUS 1 inch (You don’t want the fabric to be too bulky or thick).

Bookbinding Instructions

Watch the Video Tutorial Here on YouTube

If using a printed calendar or planner pages, download, and print.

Cut paper to the desired size.

Fabric Style Binding

1 -Cut strip of fabric and Heat & Bond.

2- Place fabric strip face down on the ironing board. Apply bonding strip with the bumpy side next to the fabric. Line up edges and press using an iron without steam.

3- Let that cool while you sew the pages.
4- Take your cover sheet (card stock) and place paper stack on top of that. (I recommend testing your sewing machine to see how much paper it will handle) Most machines are able to handle up to 7-10 sheets.

5- Fold your guide sheet in half and place it on the left side of the paper stack. Line up edges and paperclip in place.

6- Take it to the sewing machine and sew along the edge of the guide paper. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Clip threads

7- Starting from the top sheet, start folding the papers in over to make a center crease. Do one side of the notebook and then the other.

You’ll notice that the inner pages will hang over a bit, no worries.

8- Take the Exacto knife and using a ruler, slice off the excess paper. It will take several passes to cut through all the layers.

9- Pull off the paper strip from the Heat & Bond. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and finger press to make a crease.

10-Slide the booklet inside leaving about ½ inch overhanging. Make sure it is against the edge and press in place. Flip it over and press the other side.

Cut excess fabric off with scissors.

UPCYCLED SWEATER OR FELT BOOKBINDING

1- Take your calendar or paper stack and cut them in half.

(If using my printable calendars, fold the pages towards each other). If using plain paper sheets, arrange them so you have the outer cardstock on top and one on the bottom.

2- Paper clip the top, right side, and bottom of the paper stack together, lining up the edges.

3- Apply the right side of the sweater strip face down on the left side of the paper stack. Leave ½ on each end. Take it to the sewing machine and sew the fabric strip to the paper stack. Backstitch at the beginning and end of seam. Sew slowly making sure your machine can handle the thickness. Trim threads.

4- Fold the fabric strip around the edge to the front.

5- Keep the fabric pulled tight as you sew in “the ditch” of the previous seam. (Right next to the fabric edge) Backstitch at the beginning and end of seam.

6- Flip over and using your scissors, trim away excess fabric right next to the seam. Be careful not to cut into the seam. Clip off the excess fabric on the ends as well.

If your sweater fabric was prewashed and “felted” it should not fray. Some thick knit fabrics will also not fray and can be used as well as fleece. Get creative.You can round the corners of the booklet using a corner punch. (Optional)

Ta-dah!

Now wasn’t that a fun little bookbinding project.

Be sure to check out my post about the 2020 printable calendars that I have designed and that work great for bookbinding!

Stay tuned for some more bookbinding techniques coming up!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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book binding Planners Sewing Sewing tutorial travelers notebook

DIY Fabric Window Treatment

Add some pizzazz and color to any room by making your own window treatment. This is a fun and easy project that even a beginner seamstress can handle.

A few years back we remodeled our home and added some space onto the back. One of the things we added was a new laundry room. I am a total light freak and love the lighting in this room, and I love that I don’t have to go into the dreary basement anymore to do laundry.

There are two windows in the corner of my laundry room and in my door. I wanted to add some color to the crisp white planked walls with some kind of window treatment.

At first, I thought about making roman blinds for these windows. I have made them before and they are kinda fun to make, but I am into EASY these days, and a roman blind looks like this when it is pulled up anyway. Why should I waste the fabric yardage, my time, and any frustration that may come along with a more intense project such as a pleated roman blind?

This window treatment works really well for windows that are inset, meaning they are not flush with the interior walls.

Here is a picture of the laundry room before the window treatment.

After

Look at what a LITTLE fabric and a LITTLE bit of time can do!

While I was sewing I thought I would take some photos and share with you how QUICK and EASY this was to make up.

What you will need for this easy DIY window treatment:

FABRIC (measuring instructions below) I used a duck cloth piece of fabric for this window, which is a little like canvas. Any woven fabric will work. If it is a thinner, lightweight fabric you may want to use a piece of interfacing to give it some structure.
SEWING MACHINE
a piece of wood trim measuring 3/4 x 1/2 inch x window width. (measuring instructions below)
drill
1 5/8 inch screws
7/16 inch dowel the width of your treatment (optional)
staple gun or glue adhesive
rotary cutter or scissors
safety pins (optional)

How to measure fabric:

Measure the INSIDE MOUNT width of the window and ADD 1 INCH for seam allowance.

Then decide how long you want the valance to hang down and double that amount then ADD 1 1/2 inches. Mine hangs down 10 inches. So I cut my fabric 21 1/2 inches.

Cutting Out:

Cut out the fabric using a rotary cutter or scissors.

*TIP: use a safety pin to mark the edges of the fabric that are the WINDOW WIDTH measurements. I suggest this because it can be real easy to get these mixed up especially if you have a square window.

Sewing:

Fold the fabric with Right Sides Together with the WIDTH of the fabric at the top. (safety pins should be at the top)

Sew the side seams using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Clip the bottom corners.

Turn and Press:

Turn the fabric inside out and press the edges out real smooth.

Hold the fabric up and if you feel it hangs nicely you can move on. If you find it doesn’t hang flat you can either stiffen it up a bit using some iron-on interfacing or use the method below using a small dowel.

*TIP: If you are using a lightweight fabric, you can insert a small dowel (7/16) cut the width minus about a 1/4 inch into the bottom of the valance. This will give it some weight to hang down straight instead of being limp.

Finish the top edge to prevent fraying with a serger, or on a regular machine just use a zigzag stitch.

Board Preparation:

You will need to drill some holes in the wood strip before applying the fabric. Measure about 3 1/2 -4 inches from the edges and one hole in the center. If your window is pretty wide, you may need a few more holes to secure the wood strip tightly to the top of the window casing. If you have a countersinking tool, that works great, if not, no biggie.

The holes that you drill should coincide with the screws you are using.

Applying the fabric to the wood strip:

Line up the top edge of the fabric with the edge of the wood strip and make sure the fabric is also lined up with the side edge of the wood or else the wood will show.

Hold securely in place while you staple it using a staple gun. If you do not have a staple gun, you can secure in place using a good adhesive and some clamps to hold in place while it dries.

You may need to use a hammer to flatten any stubborn staples that didn’t get stapled flat.

Inserting the window treatment to the window casing:

Get a drill and 1 5/8 inch screws handy.

The wood strip and fabric should fit snug against the edges of your casing. You may want some help doing this part if you have a wide window.

Fold the fabric up while you, or someone else, screws in the screws. (Keep the wood strip flush with the wall edges).

Tadah! Gotta love it, baby.

What a fun way to add some pizzazz to any room.

Want a tour of my laundry room? Check out this post.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Easily Customize Your DIY Fabric Labels / Quick and Simple

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home decor Sewing Sewing tutorial window treatment

Upcycled Sweater Slippers: Sewing Tips & Tricks

For all my upcycling friends, it’s time to get busy in Santa’s workshop. If you are still contemplating what to make for your loved ones for Christmas, why don’t you sew up a pair of upcycled sweater slippers?

Some of you may have already purchased one of my upcycled sweater patterns and have experience sewing with felted wool sweaters.

Others of you may not even know what I am talking about.

Making something out of a recycled sweater is so fun and rewarding.

There are so many things you can create with this yummy fabric once it is felted.

If you want more information about how to felt wool sweaters, you can check out the tutorial HERE.

Today, I want to share some tips and tricks for making upcycled sweater slippers.

I am going to cover:

sole fabric options
cutting out tips
binding tips
hidden seam lining

Sweater slippers SOLE FABRIC OPTIONS

Depending on your needs, there are several options of fabric to use for the bottoms of your slippers. You can use

A regular weight felted wool sweater

Using a regular sweater as the sole, is softer and a bit cozier. However, if you have hardwood floors or tile in your home, they can be a little slippery.

Thick, dense felted wool sweater

Sometimes when you shrink down a sweater it can get really dense and thick. These sweaters are more difficult to use on other craft projects but work well for the soles of slippers. The only drawback here is that they can be a little more challenging to sew with because they are so thick.

Anti-slip fabric

These fabrics can be nice to sew into the soles of sweater slippers for LITTLE PEOPLE’s feet. Most likely you have seen the fabric on the bottoms of children’s one-piece pajamas.

You can find this fabric on the bolt in most fabric stores, or in pre-cut packages. It is also available online.

Another thing to do to prevent slipping and works better for adult slippers is to simply use a rubber shelf liner. It is inexpensive and easy to work with. You can get it at most stores and online here.

*When using either of these two fabrics, you will be cutting out a regular sole piece with a regular weight sweater AND the anti-slip fabric. You will stack those two pieces together and treat them as the sole piece.

Leather or suede

Sewing in a leather or suede sole can be really nice.

It will make the slippers much more durable and can be less slippery.

Working with leather can be a little more challenging, as it does not have any give to it, but not too big of a deal. I love sewing on leather.

The only thing is that you will want to make sure it is a nice soft piece and not too thick.

CUTTING OUT

When cutting out pattern pieces with felted wool sweaters, you want to maximize the fabric. (It’s crafting gold) Place the pattern as close to the edge as possible. Arrange the pattern to use up the best space possible.

Felted sweaters will not fray. So don’t worry about that.

If the sweater has a print, stripe, or design, you must consider that when placing the pattern piece.

Since you are making a pair of slippers, and there is a LEFT and RIGHT side, after cutting out one piece, you will need to flip the pattern over and then place it back on the fabric. (Very Important)

Another tip I give in the pattern tutorial is to USE SAFETY PINS to help mark the RIGHT SIDES of the fabric.

Applying a safety pin to each pattern piece will help keep things straight when putting everything together!

Don’t forget to SAVE YOUR SCRAPS! There are so many fun things to make with all your scraps.
Sweater balls, hearts, dryer balls, etc. can all be made with small pieces of sweater fabric.

BINDING

I came up with this technique that saves time and is much easier when sewing binding on something.

However, this technique can only be used if you are using fleece or a stretchy piece of felted wool.

The reason is, that fleece and felted sweaters DO NOT FRAY! I Love applying fleece binding.

You can also access my FREE online binding course HERE.

HIDDEN SEAM LINING

This is a cool way to apply the lining to a pair of sweater slippers without all the bulk and a seam showing.

Using this technique can be a bit difficult to understand, so I thought I would clarify the process and show you a little clip from my online class on how to do it.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

sewing tips Sewing tutorial skillshare classes slipper lining upcycled clothing upcycled sweater projects upcycled sweater slippers

DIY: Carabiner Keychain Tutorial

Have you lost your keys/keyfob AGAIN? If you can not keep track of your keys, this DIY tutorial is for you!

I am going to show you how easy it is to make a carabiner keychain. It really is a snap!

Seriously, why is it so hard to find your dang keys? You know the drill. You get to the car, and the fumbling begins.

You reach your hand into the endless pit of STUFF in your purse, but no keys can be found. You try one pocket, then another, not there. Oh the FRUSTRATION!. Now you are all worked up and stressed. Well, it doesn’t have to be that way!

I have found something that works! My husband has been using a carabiner keychain for a long time, and he always knows where his keys are, so I decided to make my own. I know it’s not the most feminine thing, but the purses I enjoy are a little playful and whimsy anyway, so it works for me. In fact, it has been working quite well. I LOVE IT!

Right when I get out of the car, I simply clip my keys to the side loop of my purse and let the keys fall inside. When I am ready to get in the car, I EASILY unclip the carabiner, and viola, keys in hand I am ready to roll. Works like a charm.

Are you ready to simplify your life a little? I am telling you, this is a game-changer.

To make your carabiner keychain, you will need

1″- 1 1/4 ” Split Key Ring

I like to buy a variety of sizes like those in this set. They do come in handy for other things.

You can find them at most stores, often at the checkout aisle.

2 1/2 – 3 ” Carabiner

You can get these at Home Depot, Amazon, or other hardware stores. This one from Amazon comes with the split keyring.

6 1/2 inches of 3/4 ” webbing

I am a recycler! This is my box of random webbing pieces that I have salvaged from things that I no longer want or use (bags, backpacks, coats, etc.).

I also saved the hardware. They really do come in handy for a lot of things. So, if you don’t have a stash yet of random webbing, something you may want to consider is keeping it to a minimum. (Keep it to a minimum, remember.) I don’t want to promote a hoarding scenario here.

Sewing Machine

Scissors

1- Cut 6 1/2 inches of webbing

2- Thread the webbing into the ring

Fold the top piece up 2 “

3- Sew the top webbing to the bottom 1/2 ” from the fold

You can use a zigzag stitch or two straight stitches.

4- Fold the bottom webbing piece under 1/2″

5- Fold the top piece so it overlaps the bottom piece

It should measure 2 1/2 “.

6- Topstitch the upper loop

Using a zigzag or straight stitch, to secure the top folded webbing in place.

7- Slip the carabiner onto the top loop

Add your keys and you are ready to ROLL!

This is how my husband hooks his keys to his backpack. They can also be attached to a belt buckle.

If you have any questions while sewing these up, shoot me a note.

Get ready for hassle-free key accessibility!

YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN MY TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE AN EARPHONE CORD HOLDER.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

How To Make Adorable DIY Shoelaces With Fabric and Recycled T-Shirts

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getting organized Sewing Sewing tutorial upcycling

Upcycled Sweater Hearts – Free Pattern Tutorials

Oh, the things you can do with a brightly colored felted wool sweater heart. I have written several posts over the years about making upcycled sweater hearts. I wanted to update a few things and perhaps bring them all together for you.

Felted wool sweater fabric is like crafting gold, especially for making Valentine’s. Hopefully, you save your scraps when you are making things out of sweaters. Here are a few ideas.

Patchwork sweater hearts

Put several different colors of sweaters together in one heart, using this patchwork heart pattern. Here in this post, you can get the download and instructions. Wrap one of these cute hearts up in a cellophane bag and give it to a friend or loved one any time of the year.

Sweater Heart Handwarmers

Make a cozy set of hand warmers from upcycled sweaters. Get the free pattern and post HERE.

Sweater Mittens – Easy Sewing Project for Your Favorite Valentine!

Make a cozy pair of upcycled sweater mittens.

How to easily cut out hearts with felted wool sweaters

Even the smallest pieces can be used to cut out a heart for a card like shown in this video tutorial.

There you have it. A few fun things to make out of felted wool sweaters.

Happy Valentine’s Day My Friends!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Connect:

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Heart Lollipops: Made with Upcycled Sweaters & Felt

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Sewing tutorial sweater hearts upcycled sweater projects valentine garland Valentine Ideas Valentine's day

DIY: Hemming Pants And Shorts That Are Too Long

Here where I live, we are in the thick of the summer, and it is WARM. I decided I could use another pair of shorts.

So instead of going out and buying a new pair, I took a pair of capris that I don’t wear much and cut them off.

Hemming pants or shorts is really an easy sewing project. If you know how to sew a straight stitch, you’ve got this!

While I was doing this, I thought I would bring you along for the ride. So here is a quick video tutorial.

1- You Will Need

If you have a pair of shorts that you like the length of, use them as a length guide.
Pair of scissors
Pins
Chalk pencil, pen, or regular pencil
Ruler or straight edge
Seam gauge or measuring tape
Sewing machine (Can be sewn by hand if you are familiar with the hem stitch)

2- Determine How Long You Want Your Shorts or Pants

Add 3/4 inch to the finished edge and mark with a pencil.

3- Using the pencil and ruler, mark the cutting line.

4- Cut along line

5- Fold cut pant leg over the top of the uncut leg.

Line up the waistline, crotch seams and inseams.
Using the already cut leg as a pattern, cut the other pant leg.

6- Folding, pressing and pinning

7- Sewing

Using a straight stitch on the sewing machine, sew along the top edge (about 1/4 inches from the bottom edge)

8- Back stitch

9- Clip threads

Ta dah!

Save some money and see if you have any pants that you can transform into some COOL, perfect-length shorts.

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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DIY Foot Warmer Tutorial

Take the chill out of your bed and warm your feet with these easy-to-make therapy bags.

This DIY foot warmer tutorial will guide you through an easy, peasy winter sewing project.

My husband and I have been using these for years. I guess we have become wimps in our old age because now we can’t go to bed without a heated corn bag.

We will heat one or two up and throw them under the covers a few minutes before we go to bed, and then when we jump in, oh, nice and toasty. If you have cold feet, these are the bomb!

Wrap your feet around one, and you are good to go.

These little bags are great for placing anywhere on your body that needs soothing. You can also freeze the bags to use as a cold pack.

Foot Warmer Materials & Items Needed

21 1/2 inches x 11 inches fabric (I prefer flannel, but any woven cotton or knit piece will work)
feed corn (don’t use popcorn), rice, buckwheat, or flax seeds

You can fill your bags with feed corn, rice, buckwheat, wheat, or flaxseed.

I have tried all of them and feed corn seems to hold the heat the longest.

Be prepared for whatever you used to smell when it’s heated- feed corn like popcorn, rice-like cooked wheat, rice, and buckwheat… smells a little grainy.

The flax has the least amount of smell but doesn’t stay heated nearly as long.

I usually make a liner and a slipcover for my other therapy bags, but I don’t for the footbags because it is just too bulky.

1. Cut out a strip of fabric 22 inches x 11 inches.

If you are using 45-inch wide fabric, you can get two bags out of an 11-inch strip of fabric. You might as well make two while you are sewing.

2. Fold in half with Right Sides Together (RST). Sew down the sides, leaving the top edge open.

3. Turn inside out and fold the top edge down 1/2 inch. Press.

4. Fill the bag with 5 – 6 cups feed corn, or other filler of choice.

5. Line up the top edges, and pin in place.

6. Sew along the top edge using a straight or zigzag stitch.

To heat the foot warmer: microwave for 2 minutes and flip over and heat for another 2 minutes. *note that all microwaves heat differently. ‘

To be on the safe side, perhaps you could start with 90 seconds on each side. If it isn’t hot enough, heat a little longer.

This foot warmer makes a really nice gift. You can download the tags here.

Make a matching eye pillow for a nice therapy bag gift set.

You can get the other pattern to make the other bags here.

Eye pillows, hand warmers, neck bags, and a big soothing sack all work well both hot or cold.

Give your tootsies some warm loven.

Hand warmer tutorial here.

Keep cozy warm and have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

DIY Lavender EYE PILLOW | Easy Sewing Tutorial

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Slip Stitch Tutorial

Here is a little video tutorial showing how to do the slip stitch.

A lot of my patterns and projects include this stitch so I thought I would do a little demo for you to view. This stitch is also called the blind stitch and very similar to the blind hem. I use this stitch to close the opening of pillows , my sweater balls, stuffed animals and binding.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Have fun sewing!

Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

Share:

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

What Makes This Zipper Pouch Different?

Supplies You’ll Need

Fabric and Materials

Sewing Tools

What Type of Fabric Works Best?

Watch the Step-by-Step Video Tutorial

Get the Printable Zipper Pouch Pattern

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Related Posts

Watch the Video Tutorial

Supplies Needed

How to Make a Finger Pincushion

Step 1: Cut Out the Fabric

Step 2: Prepare the Lid and Finger Ring

Step 3: Sew the Pincushion

Step 4: Sew on the Button

That’s It!

Finger Pincushion vs. Wrist Pincushion

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of fabric works best?

Can I use something besides a plastic lid?

Can beginners make this project?

Does the elastic adjust?

Get the Printable Pattern

OTHER POSTS YOU MAY FIND HELPFUL

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How to Adjust the Brim Width

To Make the Brim Wider

To Make the Brim Narrower

A Note About Interfacing

How to Adjust the Crown Height

To Increase Crown Height

To Decrease Crown Height

Finding Your Perfect Fit

GET THE BUCKET HAT PATTERNS HERE:

Bucket Hat

OTHER TUTORIALS YOU MAY FIND HELPFUL:

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Why You’ll Love This Towel Scarf

Supplies You’ll Need

A Note About Towel Size

Step 1: Cut and Prep the Towel

Step 2: Create the Towel Pleats

Step 3: Measure and Cut the Neck Piece

Width

Length:

Step 4: Sew the Neck Band Tube

Step 5: Insert the Towel (Magic Step ✨)

Step 6: Stitch the Ends

Step 7: Close the Opening + Shape the Neck

Step 8: Topstitch

Step 9: Add a Label (Optional)

Final Thoughts

Great Gift Idea 🎁

OTHER POSTS YOU MAY FIND HELPFUL

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Materials You’ll Need

Cutting Out Mini Zipper Pouch

Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric

Apply Interfacing:

Vinyl Version:

Step 2: D-Ring Application (optional)

Step 3: Zipper Application

Glue Basting the Zipper:

Sew the Zipper:

CUTTING OUT
Cut a strip of knit fabric (6-8 inches/15.5 cm x HEAD MEASUREMENT)