How to Easily Choose the Right Interfacing for Any Sewing Project
Understanding interfacing can completely change the way your sewing projects look and feel. The good news is, it really doesn’t have to be complicated.
Have you ever finished a sewing project and thought…why:
- does this bag feel floppy?
- is this collar wrinkled?
- does this zipper area stretch out?
- does this project just look a little… homemade?
Chances are, the problem may not be your sewing skills at all. It could simply be the type of interfacing or stabilizer you used.
In this beginner-friendly guide, I’m going to:
- simplify the different types of interfacing and fabric stabilizers
- explain what they’re used for, and help you decide which one works best for your sewing projects.
What Is Interfacing?
Interfacing is a material that is added to fabric to give it more:
structure
stability
support
durability
shape
It is commonly used in:
collars
cuffs
waistbands
bags and pouches
button plackets
zipper areas
quilted projects
home decor items
Without a stabilizer, many sewing projects can feel limp, stretchy, or unstable.
The Most Important Rule About Interfacing
Match the weight of the stabilizer to the weight of the fabric.
Examples:
Lightweight cotton fabric → lightweight interfacing
Medium-weight fabric → medium-weight interfacing
Knit fabric → knit interfacing
Structured bags → heavier stabilizer or foam
Using a stabilizer that is too heavy can make the fabric stiff and unnatural.
If you use an interfacing that is too light, it may not provide enough support.
Types of Interfacing and Stabilizers – Woven
There are many different brands and products available, but most stabilizers fall into a few basic categories.
You can purchase them in fabric stores or online. They can be bought on the bolt, by the yard, or packaged.
1. Woven Fusible Interfacing
Woven interfacing behaves much like fabric because it actually has a grainline.
It adds support while still allowing fabric to drape naturally.
Best Uses:
shirt collars
cuffs
button plackets
garment sewing
lightweight cotton projects
Why Sewists Love It
Woven interfacing gives projects a more professional finish without making them overly stiff.
One of the most popular types is:
Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex
This is a favorite for many garment and bag sewists because it adds soft structure while keeping the fabric flexible.
2. Non-Woven Fusible Interfacing
Non-woven interfacing has more of a paper-like texture and does not have a grainline.
It is one of the most common types of interfacing for beginners.
Best Uses:
zipper pouches
craft projects
simple bags
quilting cotton projects
Things to Know
Non-woven interfacing is inexpensive and easy to use, but heavier versions can sometimes feel stiff.
This is a great everyday interfacing for many sewing projects.
3. Knit Interfacing (Tricot Interfacing)
Knit interfacing is designed specifically for stretchy fabrics.
Unlike regular interfacing, it stretches with the fabric rather than fighting it.
Best Uses:
t-shirts
knit necklines
stretchy hems
zipper areas on knit fabric
Why It Matters
Using regular interfacing on knit fabric can make the fabric stiff and distorted.
Knit interfacing helps stabilize the fabric while still maintaining stretch and comfort.
4. Fusible Fleece
Fusible fleece adds softness, padding, and body rather than stiffness.
It creates a soft, structured look that works beautifully for many sewing projects.
Best Uses:
tote bags
zipper pouches
placemats
table runners
cosmetic bags
What It Does Best
Fusible fleece helps projects feel soft and padded while still holding their shape.
If you want a project to feel cushioned instead of stiff, fusible fleece is a great option.
5. Foam Stabilizer
Foam stabilizer is thicker and more structured than fleece.
It creates dimension and helps projects stand upright.
Best Uses:
structured bags
- eyeglass cases
laptop bags
standing baskets
travel bags
Why It’s Popular
Foam stabilizer gives sewing projects that professional store-bought appearance, many sewists are
Fusible vs. Sew-In Interfacing
Interfacing generally comes in two forms:
Fusible Interfacing
This type has adhesive on one side that bonds to fabric with heat from an iron.
Pros:
easy to apply
keeps layers together
beginner friendly
Cons:
can bubble if applied incorrectly
Sew-In Interfacing
This type is sewn into the project instead of fused with heat.
Pros:
great for delicate fabrics
no risk of bubbling
softer drape
Cons:
requires more sewing steps
Most beginners prefer fusible interfacing because it is faster and easier to use.
How to Apply Fusible Interfacing Correctly
***BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE INTERFACING/STABILIZER. (Some can be different).
One of the biggest frustrations with interfacing is bubbling or wrinkling after fusing.
1. Identify the Glue Side
The rough or bumpy side is usually the adhesive side.
Place the glue side against the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Press — Don’t Iron
Instead of sliding the iron back and forth:
press down firmly
hold for 10–15 seconds
lift and move to the next section
Sliding the iron can stretch and distort the fabric.
3. Use a Pressing Cloth
A pressing cloth helps protect fabric and prevents adhesive from transferring to the iron.
4. Let It Cool Completely
After fusing, allow the fabric to cool flat before moving it.
This helps the adhesive bond properly.
Tip for applying fusible interfacing to pattern pieces. (bucket hats, bag, and pouch panels, etc.)
Here is a great tip that really makes a huge difference when applying fusible interfacing.
Cut a piece of interfacing into a rectangle slightly larger than the pattern piece.
Now, cut a piece of fabric the same size.
Cut out the paper pattern piece.
Place the interfacing with the bumpy side FACING DOWN.
Trace around the pattern piece.
Turn the interfacing so the bumpy side is FACING UP.
Place the fabric onto the interfacing with the RIGHT SIDE FACING UP.
Start pressing, not ironing, from the center out. Making sure to cover the whole area.
Test to see if it has completely adhered, and let it cool.
Now cut out the pattern pieces, and you’ll have a nice crisp edge and all layers lined up. Yay!
Common Interfacing Mistakes
Using Interfacing That Is Too Heavy
This can make projects stiff, bulky, or difficult to sew.
Using Lightweight Interfacing on Heavy Fabric
Heavy fabrics may still feel floppy if the stabilizer is too light.
Stretching Fabric While Fusing
This can distort the shape of the project.
Skipping Test Swatches
Always test interfacing on a scrap piece of fabric first.
This helps you check:
stiffness
drape
shrinkage
adhesion
My Favorite Everyday Stabilizers
These are a few stabilizers I personally reach for over and over:
For Garments
Woven fusible interfacing
For Bags and Pouches
For Knit Fabrics
For Structured Bags
Final Thoughts
Interfacing may seem confusing at first, but once you understand a few basic categories, choosing the right stabilizer becomes much easier.
The right choice can instantly make your sewing projects:
look more professional
hold their shape better
last longer
feel more polished
And honestly, it can save a lot of frustration along the way.
Once you start experimenting with different stabilizers, you’ll quickly discover which ones work best for the types of projects you love to sew most.
Happy sewing!
Other Blog Posts You May Be Interested In
How to Make Zipper Tabs the Easy Way | Simple Tips and Tricks
How To Make the Cutest Scrappy Fabric for Unique Sewing Projects
A Beginners Guide to Rotary Cutting / Helpful Tips and Tricks
Have fun sewing!
Press the seam open.
Then turn everything right side out by pulling the towel through the opening you left unsewn.
It’s a small detail—but it makes a big difference.
Repeat this process until all five outer pentagons are attached around the center.
You won’t match point to point.
Match the point of one pentagon to the valley seam of the other half.
If there are rivets in the jeans, try cutting just below them and through the belt loop.
Remove the remaining belt loops by using a seam ripper.
Clip or pin the pocket fabric and jean fly down in place.
Mark with a pin. (I find that measuring about 4 ½ to 5 inches is about average.
(A serger works great, but if you don’t have one, just sew a wide zigzag stitch along the edge). 
Pin the stretchy waistband to the jeans, lining up center points.
If you’re good to go, then use a zigzag stitch (5 width, 3-4 in length) all the way around.
To finish off the cut zipper, so the zipper pull doesn’t fall off or gape open, you can whip-stitch the top of the zipper together using a double-threaded needle.
This project is also a great way to repurpose:
Most woven fabrics come 43–44 inches wide, which works perfectly for this project.
Sew down the side and bottom, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. 
Step 4 – Topstitch
Lightly singe zipper ends with a lighter to stop fraying.
To apply the zipper pull, use a zipper jig or guide it on by hand. Make sure the fabric edges are lined up.
TIP: If your machine doesn’t include a second spool pin, you can stack a wound bobbin on top of your main thread spool and secure it with a thread cap.
Make sure your stitch is set to straight stitch and center needle position.
To Make A Gridded Texture
Decorative Stitches
❌ Avoid straight stitches when sewing on any stretchy fabrics — they’ll pop when the fabric stretches!
Important: After sewing, wash your project before wearing or using, to dissolve the tape before stretching the fabric — otherwise, your stitches may pop.
Tip: Use an existing pouch or gather the items you plan to store in the bag.
You’ll cut:
Box Cut = 1/2 of the desired finished height minus 3/4 inch seam allowance. 
Tip: Always account for the seam allowance when marking your box corners!
This is an excellent tip: when you’re making that box corner, 
Step 5: Topstitch Around the Zipper Box
When we placed the quilt on the frame earlier, we made the backing fabric slightly larger than the top. So now we need to trim off that excess.
I like using a simple 5 lb hand weight placed on the ruler. This adds stability, especially when using the longer ruler.
Making a quilt is a rewarding experience. There’s just something special about piecing colorful fabrics together, tying or quilting them, and connecting with others.
If you missed 
I chose a striped cotton fabric for the top and a neutral-colored flannel for the backing.
For the batting, I’m using pre-cut cotton batting that comes in a 45” x 60” package, which works well for crib-sized quilts, however, I’m going to cut it down for this small quilt.
Mark the halfway points on your quilt top and backing fabric by folding each side in half and mark the center point using a pin or erasable fabric marker. 
This will help align everything evenly during setup.
Now, you can start to move the stands and boards further apart.
6- Secure the frame with C-clamps. Adjust the crossing points of the boards so the fabric lays even and is squared, then tighten the C-clamps at each corner. (You should not see any pulling or stretching of the fabric).
9- Adjust C Clamps. At this stage, go around to all the C clamps and loosen and tighten them to adjust the fabric so it is squared up and the quilt top is smooth but NOT PULLED TIGHT!
Hand quilting was a tradition that brought people together, sharing stories, laughter, and creativity while making something beautiful and practical.
Wire Threaders:
Hook Needle Threaders:
They are available for 
A thread-pushing gadget I tried once broke on its second use and was more frustrating than helpful.
If you want to add a tag to the fabric blocks, this is a great time to do so. Baste the tag in place before sewing one of the side seams. 
Stuff the block with fiberfill, adding a jingle bell if you like. Continue stuffing until the block is firm but still soft and squishy.
This keeps the presser foot level and allows the feed dogs to move the fabric through without getting it sucked down into the machine. (I’m sure you’ve experienced it). It is so frustrating.
***I keep many scrap pieces close to my machine in a little pouch on my sewing supply holder.
To avoid this, adjust your stitch length from 2.5 to 3 and gently pull back the threads from the needle and bobbin when you begin stitching. Take a few stitches and let them go.
At the end of a seam, sew to the end of the fabric, maybe one stitch off the fabric, then lift the presser foot, pull the fabric back slightly, flip it over, and align the edge with the needle before continuing to sew. Sew a few inches, then veer quickly off.
It’s the perfect size that you can fold up and throw in your diaper bag. 
1- Fusible Fleece Application
The cut edge of the tag will be along the raw edge of the fabric.
The seam allowance is 3/8 inches, so take note of that when placing the tag in place.
Make up a few and add some burp cloths and you have the perfect baby gift!
Flip the right side facing up. Bring the ends towards the center. (You think you would just line up the lines straight across, right? But you don’t.
Find the point on the left piece of fabric. That point needs to extend past the line underneath by ¼ inch.
Press the seam open.
Poke out the points and smooth the curves. (I like pressing the ¼-inch seam allowance so it’s easier to sew the heart closed).
Attach it to a gift bag
Hang on a bulletin board
Displayed in a bowl or a basket
Sew a 
Add a fleece neck warmer and you have a great Christmas gift.
DON’T THROW AWAY THE JEAN LEGS! Please put them in a tote with all your other jeans scraps for OTHER FUN PROJECTS.
Take your time around the corners, and then when you get to the other side, top stitch over that folded edge.
Secure it in place and sew along the edges of the elastic using a big zigzag stitch. I like to go back and forth a few times to ensure it is secure.
I do have a tutorial that shows how to use certain presser feet and basic stitches to create an 
Needle threader (even a basic mechanical machine will have a little lever that you can push down, or there are fancy ones on some computerized machines that you push a button and it automatically threads the needle on its own).
Needle position lever (Moving the needle to the left or right will come in handy when you want to sew closer or further away without having to adjust the seam allowance and for zipper application).
You can sew on different fabrics and test different stitches.
When you buy a new machine at a dealership, they will most likely offer free classes to help you get acquainted with it.
Now, let’s talk a little about sergers. Sergers don’t last as long as sewing machines, so if you are considering buying a used serger, ask if they’ve used it a lot. If it’s ancient, this can be a little risky.
I went into the shop that has been servicing my machine for many years and had a chat with Dave at Sewing Machine Exchange.
DO NOT USE 3 IN 1 OIL! Make sure you are using the correct type of oil for your machine. It will most likely come with a little vial of oil. 
The place that you’ll want to oil the machine is just in your bobbin case, whether it’s a top loading or a front loading right on the hook.
The manual for one of my machines states NOT to oil the machine.
Get out the little duster that comes with your machine, or you can use a little paintbrush.
I love to sew.
Grab a bunch of sewing clips or pins and start in one of the corners of the quilt. Fold the cut edge of the binding to the edge of the top piece and then fold it again. Clip in place.
Now fold the binding just like you did, and it will make a mitered corner. You’ll come back a little later to hand-sew those corners in place. Clip in place.
If I’m making a quilt as a gift, I always put a little heart or something on the backside.
This is a tag that I made and printed onto this ribbon. 
Another great option, and something I do all the time, is to use upcycled cuffs from other items of clothing. Whenever I have a piece of clothing I no longer want, I check it for good buttons, zipper pulls, AND fabric (cuffs).
2- Place the CUFF PIECE right side facing up.
7- Fold the other edge of the cuff over the jellyroll and line up that edge with the others.
2- THIS IS WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS! Grab a piece of the jellyroll from one of the ends and start pulling it out and continue until all the innards are pulled out.
Make sure the cuff edges and trim are lined up.
4- Turn the pillowcase RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and give it a final pressing.
If you take the non-selvage, the stretchy edge, and pull it, it will curl to the WRONG SIDE.
Have you ever seen this little Gadget? Most likely it came with your sewing machine. I have to be honest, it wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I even knew what this was strange item was.
If you don’t have one in your sewing kit, no worries. You can make one by folding a cereal box 3-4 times to make a rectangle as shown in the photo.
Slide it under the back of the presser foot just like you would the hump jumper. (Watch video tutorial for a demonstration).
This binding is so cozy, it stretches really nice, and it has a clean finished look. 
Get in your sewing room, get out your fleece and make something fun.
Oh, the fun things you can make with an upcycle T-Shirt. Check out some of the ideas here.
Thread the needle through the button shank and back down into the fabric close to the shank.
Upcycled t-shirts work really well
NOTE: if the fabric is thicker, you may need to clip the corner just slightly 1/16 of an inch before sewing. You shouldn’t have a problem with lighter-weight fabrics.
The bead to water ratio is 1 teaspoon/3 cups water. Get a big bowl or tub to put them in. It may take a few hours for them to hydrate completely. I like to soak my beads the night before I plan on sewing.
7 -Clip corners.
11 -Sew vertical seams
I like to place a piece of masking or painter’s tape onto the sewing plate at the 5/8 inch mark. This will help you see more clearly and help you guide the fabric along as you sew.
Cut out 2 bibs on the fold. You can double fold and cut all 4 pieces at once if you are using the same fabric for the front and back.
Place the folded pocket on top of one of the bib pieces right side facing up. Align the edges and clip in place.
Using a turning stick, poke out the curves and edges.
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4- COUNT OUT SQUARES BY TENS and place a scrap piece of paper with the number of squares up to that point written on it, between the layers.
Double/queen-size quilt: 132 squares. Make rows of 11 squares x 12 rows.
Lay out the squares in rows on the floor so you can get a visual of what it will look like. Adjust as you want.
