How To Sew a Pillowcase Using French Seams or a Serger / Easy Sewing Project

diy PILLOWCASE
pillowcase

If you’re new to sewing, making a pillowcase is one of the best beginner projects you can start with. It’s simple, practical, and gives you the chance to practice straight seams, pressing, and finishing techniques.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you two easy methods for sewing a basic pillowcase:

A French seam method (great if you don’t have a serger)
A Serger method (fast and professional)
Both techniques create a clean, durable finish that holds up beautifully in the wash — no fraying edges here!

Supplies You’ll Need

  • 1 yard fabric (standard-size pillowcase)
  • Straight pins
  • Seam gauge
  • Scissors
  • Rotary cutter, mat, and ruler (optional but helpful)
  • Iron
  • Sewing machine
  • Safety pin (optional tip)
  • Serger (for the serger method)
  • Fabric suggestions:
  • Quilting cotton (most common)
  • Flannel
  • Fleece
  • Silky fabrics

fabric boltMost woven fabrics come 43–44 inches wide, which works perfectly for this project.

Pillowcase Measurements

Standard Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 36 x 44 inches

Queen Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 39 x 44 inches

King Pillowcase:

Cut fabric to 42 x 44 inches

Click on the link below to get the free pillowcase cutting guide.

Preparing Your Fabric

If using flannel or cotton, prewash first to prevent shrinkage.

1- Fold fabric in half (salvage edges together).

2- Trim off salvage edges (about ½”).
3- Square up the cut edges using your mat grid to a length of 36 inches.

You should now have a rectangle measuring:

36 x 43-44 inches

Helpful Tip:
Attach a safety pin to the salvage edge so you can easily remember which side is the pillowcase edge.

Pre-Fold the Cuff

Before sewing seams, prep the pillowcase opening:

  1. Fold the wide edge down ½ inch — press.

  2. Fold another 4 inches — press well.

french seam pillowcase

Method 1: French Seam Pillowcase

French seams enclose all raw edges inside the seam — perfect if you don’t own a serger.

Step 1 – Sew First Seam

  1. Place the fabric wrong sides together.

  2. Keep the 2.1-inch folded down.

  3. Pin along the side and the bottom.

  4. (Optional) Insert a fabric tag into the side seam. (see video for more details).

Sew down the side and bottom, using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. 

Step 2 – Turn & Press

  1. Turn the pillowcase wrong side out.

  2. Push out corners with a turning tool.

  3. Roll seams flat with fingers.

  4. Press well.

Step 3 – Sew Second Seam

Sew again along side and bottom using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

This encloses all raw edges inside the seam.

Turn the right side out and press.

You’ll now see a beautifully finished interior — no fraying!

Step 4 – Finish the Cuff

  1. Refold the pressed cuff.

  2. Pin in place.

  3. Topstitch along the folded edge.

Using an edge-stitch foot or a blind hem foot. This helps keep your seam perfectly straight.

Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Optional: Add trim, such as lace or rickrack, to the seam for decoration.

sewing tips serger

Method 2: Serger Pillowcase

This method is faster and great for batch sewing.

If using flannel or cotton, prewash first to prevent shrinkage.

Cut fabric to:

43” x 40” (Queen-size example)

Step 1 – Pre-Fold Cuff

Same as before:

  • Fold ½ inch — press

  • Fold 4 inches — press

  • Open the folds, leaving the ½ inch press

Step 2 – Sew Side Seam

Serger Corner Tip

Before serging the corner:  Pre-cut the seam allowance just on the bottom corner, about ½ inches.

This allows you to pivot cleanly without bunching.

  1. Place the fabric right sides together.

  2. Align edges carefully — avoid twisting.

  3. Pin in place.

Serge the side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Step 3 – Enclose the Cuff Seam

Turn the pillowcase right-side facing out.

Refold the cuff along pressed lines so the serged seam is enclosed inside the fold — just like store-bought pillowcases.

Pin and press if needed.


Step 4 – Topstitch

Topstitch along the cuff edge using an edge foot or blind hem foot, for guidance.

(Optional: Add a fabric tag in the seam as shown in Method 1.)

Finished Pillowcase

You now have a beautifully finished pillowcase with:

  • Enclosed seams

  • Professional cuff

  • Optional decorative trim

Make a second one for a matching set — they sew up quickly!


Beginner Sewing Tips

  • Always square your fabric before cutting.

  • Press every step — it makes a huge difference.

  • Use French seams if you don’t own a serger.

  • Flannel makes especially cozy pillowcases.

  • Add tags or trims for a custom touch.


Learn how to make your own custom tags/labels – HERE


 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Make a Fabric Bag // Beginner Sewing Tutorial

fabric bag material items

Oh boy do I have a fun beginner sewing project for you. I’m going to show you how to make a fabric bag. They are so fun and quick to sew and you can use them for so many things.

If you’re new to sewing, this is a great beginner sewing project.

These fabric bags can be made in any size. They make adorable gift bags, or you can use them to store almost anything.

I’m going to make up a bunch of medium-sized bags out of muslin to store my onions and garlic and put them in my pantry.

One year I made up a bunch of bags and filled them with navel oranges. 

The little bags work well for candy treats or items you want to keep together.

Materials & Items Needed

  • sewing machine
  • some fabrics (quilters cotton, flannel, canvas, muslin, and even sheer and knit fabrics can be used)
  • scissors/rotary cutter mat (optional)
  • pins/wonder clips (optional)
  • measuring tape/Hot hemmer/seam gauge
  • iron
  • pencil or disappearing ink pen
  • turning stick, or the eraser end of a pencil
  • seam ripper
  • drawstring (upcycled t-shirt yarn, ribbon, bakers twine, jute, seam tape, recycled drawstrings from upcycled clothing)
  • optional embellishments (applique, whatever else you want to put on the bag)
  • optional tag/label
  • Wonder Under (optional)

 

Fabric Bag Instructions

Cutting Out

You can make these any size but some recommended basic sizes are:

Finished Size:

  • 4.5 x 5.25” / 11.5 x 13 cm
  • 8 x 9” / 21 x 23 cm
  • 13 x 12 25 inches (33 x 31cm) finished
sewing tips rotary cutters

I like cutting my fabric, especially squares and straight cuts with a rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, but you can always use regular scissors if you want to.

1- Decide how big you want the bag to be.

Seam allowance is ¼ – 3/8 inch and you’ll be folding the top of the bag down 1 ¼ inch to make a casing. You can make this casing larger or smaller if you wish.

For a medium-sized bag with a finished size of 8 x 9 inches (23 x 28 cm), you’ll cut a piece of fabric 9 x 11 inches (23 x 28cm).

Small bag: cut fabric 5.5 x 7.25 inches.

Large bag: cut fabric 14 x 14.25 inches.

2- Pre-pressing

Taking the time to pre-press your casing will save time and frustration. I LOVE using this Hot Hemmer. It makes hemming and pressing so much easier. I would definitely recommend investing in this little gadget and adding it to your sewing tool collection.

 

Fold the top edge under a ¼ inch and press all the way across. Do that on both pieces. Then fold over again 1 inch and press.

fabric bag seam

Unfold the hem you just pressed and place the right sides lining up the edges and the creases you just made.

Sew along the side, across the bottom, and back up the other side using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, or just the edge of your presser foot to make it easy. Backstitch at the beginning and the end of your stitching.

3- Fabric Bag Drawstring Casing

Measure down 2.5 inches from the top edge and mark that point on both sides.

4- Finishing the seam allowance.

You are going to want to finish the seams so the fabric does not fray. There are several methods you can use or you can cut the fabric with pinking shears. However, a simple zigzag stitch works great.

Zigzag stitch settings: Width 4 / Length 2

Start at that 2 ½ inch point you just marked and start sewing all the way around, with the right edge of the zigzag close to the fabric edge.

Open up the bag so that you can finger-press the seam allowance open where you didn’t finish the seam. You can use an iron if you want but I find a good finger press is sufficient. Press down firmly and slide your finger down and that will press it open.

fabric bag seam allowance
fabric bag

To reinforce the drawstring opening, sew around the unfinished seam making a little box area. Sew about 1/8 inch from the center seam.

fabric bag folded casing

Now, this is where that pre-pressing comes in handy! Fold the top of the fabric bag down where you pressed, ¼ inch and then 1 inch. Pin it in place.

Topstitch all the way around about 1/8 inch from the edge of that fold. If you have a sewing machine where you can remove the arm piece so you can slide your bag around the arm of the sewing machine.

However, if you don’t have that option, turn the fabric bag RIGHT SIDE FACING OUT and sew inside the tube. (I hope that makes sense).

Janni Tip: Here is a great tip so that you don’t get those little bunched-up threads on the underside of your fabric where you start sewing:  When you start sewing, grab the needle and bobbin threads and hold them for the first couple of stitches then let go. There isn’t anything functionally wrong with the bunched-up threads, it’s just not very attractive.

Flip it right side facing out and take your turning stick and poke out the corners. 

To reinforce the top of the drawstring holes, take a few stitches about 1/8 inch from the top and only about an inch long.

This is where you’ll need the seam ripper. Pull the seam apart where you reinforced the hole so that you can see the stitches and just grab one of the stitches and cut it. Make sure you’re not cutting the fabric.

Start pulling the threads and cut as needed with the seam ripper to open that section up. Don’t worry, the seam will not come undone further than that because you have reinforced the seam.

5 – Drawstring Application

Measure out your drawstring material: take the width of the bag and double that, then add 4 inches. For this 9 x 11 inch bag, I’m going to cut two strips 25 inches.

Attach the safety pin to the end of the twine. If the twine or string you are using has ends that will fray, make a knot on the end before attaching the safety pin.

fabric bag cinched

That’s it! Pull the drawstrings and see how nicely it cinches together. Yay!

Fabric Bag Embellishments

You can embellish the bag with a tag, or an applique.

I have added a cute star and some flowers using “Wonder Under” fabric adhesive. This is great stuff. Stay tuned for a tutorial on how to use it.

Fabric Gift Bag Idea

I made some PJ pants and bought a t-shirt to match, then added a cute flower applique that I made from the fabric I used for the pants. Put them in a bag with matching applique and there you have an adorable, homemade gift bag. So cute.

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Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

DIY Bow Tie | Streamlined Sewing Method

Would you like to make a unique, classy bow tie for your man, or yourself? I have a DIY streamlined sewing method that you’re going to love. It’s a very simple sewing project that even a beginner seamstress can handle.

Why would you want to wear a bow tie?

It used to be that wearing a bow tie was a thing for the science guys and nerds, but not anymore! These days, wearing a bow tie represents pure creativity and a confident willingness to be different. I love that!! To me, it shows someone with a little spunk, style, and a bit of a playful side.

 

When my boys were in their teens, (now 25 and 30 years old), they started wearing bow ties to church. They were the only boys wearing them, and I loved it. My youngest son actually designed this particular bow tie.

This hand-sketched pattern has been stuck to the bulletin board in my sewing room for about 10 years. I thought it was time to share it and make it accessible for others to use. There are several types of bow ties: pre-tied, clip, and freestyle tie. This particular pattern is for a FREESTYLE tie. Don’t worry, I will include some instructions below.

It really is a simple fun project to make. I am going to show you a non-traditional method of sewing it together that really does make it so much easier.

Here is what you’ll need

INSTRUCTIONS

The pattern will need to be downloaded, printed, cut out, and pieced together.

If using the method I will be showing you, cut the dark inner lines on the pattern. (You will be tracing around the edges of the pattern, so get a clean, smooth cut)

Neck Size

Your neck size is the most essential factor when selecting a bow tie.

To measure your neck size, use a measuring tape around the base of your neck, where your collar would naturally sit.

Add half an inch to the measurement for comfort. 

This bow tie fits someone with a dress shirt size 16.5. If you want to make the tie larger or smaller, you can make that adjustment on the joining line of the pattern. 

CUTTING OUT

Cut strips of interfacing 2 ½ wide, the length of the fabric, usually 45 inches. (If you don’t have interfacing that long, cut several strips.

CUTTING OUT

Cut strips of interfacing 2 ½ wide, the length of the fabric, usually 45 inches. (If you don’t have interfacing that long, cut several strips.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and with right sides together.

Place the interfacing, bumpy side down onto the fabric. Center the strip down the whole width of the fabric.

Set the iron settings for STEAM, and for whatever type of fabric you are using.

Press the interfacing onto the fabric. Flip over and press again.

 

Now you are ready to trace the pattern onto the interfacing side of the fabric.

There are several different things you can use to trace.

I like using a chalk pencil because it doesn’t show through on the other side of the fabric.

You can also use a water-soluble ink pen that is specific for sewing and fabric use.

The purple ink (which I like to use) will disappear after a short time. The blue ink needs water to disappear. It’s not my favorite.

Leave a little bit of room on the end of the pattern for the seam allowance.

Trace one side of the tie, flip the pattern, line up the center ends, and trace the other side.

THIS WILL BE YOUR STITCHING LINE. You will NOT be leaving a seam allowance. You will cut that after you sew!

Mark the NO SEW ZONE.

Pin the two fabric layers together.

SEWING BOW TIE

Set sewing machine settings to regular straight stitch, about 2 ½ length. Thread machine with corresponding color of thread.

You will be sewing right on the stitching line you just traced.

Starting at the edge of the NO SEW ZONE, backstitch and then sew all the way around.

Take your time sewing around the corners. SEW SLOWLY!

Stop at the other end of NO SEW ZONE and backstitch.

Using the fabric scissors, cut out the tie leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Clip notches on the corners and curve indents, making sure not to cut into the seam! (This will help with bulk and allow the tie to lie nice and flat when pressing).

Using the turning stick, turn the tie inside out. (Watch the video for tip).

Push the corners out and press. (Watch the video for pressing tips).

To close opening you left, simply fold the seam allowance (1/4 inch) under and press.

Take it to the sewing machine and topstitch closed. If you want a more finished look, you can close the opening using a slip stitch.

Tadah!

 

Now the trick is knowing how to tie the bow tie.

If you are clueless, like I was, here is a great diagram showing the steps. There are also a ton of videos showing you how to do it.

Now you have a one-of-a-kind, authentic bow tie. These make great FATHER’S DAY GIFTS!

Have fun sewing, my friends. Be sure and reach out if you have any questions.

By Chris 73 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=19682

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