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How To Sew on a Button | Simple Hand Sewing Method

Everyone needs to learn how to sew on a button.

Most likely, sometime in your lifetime, you will have a button pop off a shirt or some clothing, and sewing it back on is super easy.

In this post, which includes a VIDEO, TUTORIAL, I will show you how easy it is to use a hand sewing method.

Items & Materials Needed

Sewing needle
Thread
Scissors
Toothpick
Button

In this post, which includes a VIDEO, TUTORIAL, I will show you how easy it is to use a hand sewing method.

DID YOU KNOW?

Most button-up shirts include a spare button. (Yep, kinda like a spare tire).

Look on the side seam of the shirt and there may be a single button sewn to the tag of the shirt.

Pretty cool because it can be a little challenging to find a button that looks exactly like the ones on your shirt, even if you do have a big jar of buttons as I do.

All you have to do is clip off the button and sew it on where the other one came off.

Let me show you how easy it is to do.

In case the shirt you need to replace a button does NOT have an extra button and you don’t have a jar of buttons, here is a link where you can get standard shirt buttons with the basic colors.

How to Sew On A Button

Double thread the needle and knot the end. (The video tutorial will show a slick tip on how to easily knot the end of the thread).
Locate the spot where the button needs to be applied.

TWO HOLE BUTTON

Insert the needle from the back of the fabric up into one of the holes in the button.
Stick the needle back into the other hole and pull it out on the underside. DON’T PULL IT ALL THE WAY YET. Take the TOOTHPICK and place it between the two holes, with the thread over the toothpick. Continue to pull the thread tight over the toothpick.
Reinsert the needle back up into the first hole and repeat the process THREE TIMES.
Insert the needle back up into the fabric, BUT NOT THROUGH THE BUTTON this time. The needle should be between the fabric and the button.
Wrap the thread around the strands of thread 3 times to create a shank. Take a small stitch at the base of the shank and knot. Insert the needle back into the fabric close to the stitches and out the back. Knot the thread one more time and clip the thread.
That’s it! Pretty quick and simple, right?

FOUR HOLE BUTTON

You can stitch a four-hole button a few ways. You can make a crisscross or sew two parallel stitches.

Using the crisscross method, instead of sewing into the hole next to the one you just came up from, apply the needle to the hole at a diagonal.

Insert the toothpick in the same manner and make 3 passes on each diagonal.

Create the thread shank just like you do on the two-hole method, and knot in the same manner.

SHANK BUTTON

Double-thread a needle and know the end.

Locate the place where the button will be applied and insert the needle into the back of the fabric just underneath where the button will go.

Thread the needle through the button shank and back down into the fabric close to the shank.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

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Sewing Corners and Curves | Serger Tips and Tricks

Serging around corners and curves can be a little tricky, but when you know these handy tips and tricks, it’s no problem at all.

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to easily sew around square outer and inner corners and how to sew curves without any puckering.

For those of you who are visual learners, you can watch the video tutorial at the end of the post. I give several other serger tips that you won’t want to miss!

Typical Corners and Curves Sewing Projects

Curved neckband facings
Square neck facings
Finishing napkin or placemats
Burp cloths
Eye pillows
Round pillow

Of course, sewing around corners and curves is not a big issue with a regular sewing machine, but when you are using a serger (3 or 4 thread) it is different. For one thing, the serger leaves a chain of stitching that can get quite messy and add bulk to your project if you leave them too long when turning. No more of that!

Before I learned these tips and tricks, I had stitching tails all over the place, which doesn’t look really clean and finished.

Before trying any of these tips, I recommend getting some scrap pieces of fabric and just practice. It takes a little practice and every fabric is different.

Tips for Sewing OUTER CURVES

Start with lining up the fabric edge you are sewing with the side of your serger plate (the side with the blade). This is where you want to keep your focus point. As you slowly sew, you’ll be gently rotating the fabric to the right, keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with the edge of the cutting plate.

Be careful not to twist too much or you’ll get puckers. Just let the machine feed the fabric and you turn the fabric. You’ll get the hang of it real fast.

Tips for sewing INNER CURVES

The same thing as with outer curves, except instead of rotating fabric to the right, you’ll rotate to the left. Inner curves are a tad trickier because it is a smaller radius. Just go slow. Any slight puckering that occurs can be pressed out.

Most likely, you’ll be sewing a lot more outer corners than inner corners, but knowing how to sew an inner corner using this method is a GAME CHANGER!

Outer Corners

To sew an outer corner, sew up to the edge of fabric and then take two more stitches by TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOU.

Lift up the presser foot, gently pull the fabric back a bit to disengage the threads from the looper hooks. This will enable you to PIVET THE FABRIC around. Align the fabric edge with the knife plate edge and the top of the fabric in align so that when the needles come down it will be at just inside the edge of the fabric.

Continue to sew. It’s pretty simple. Do some practicing on scrap fabric. It’s actually quite fun, and notice what clean corners you have all finished nicely!

Inner Corners

Begin sewing and when you get close to the corner, flip the bottom of the fabric edge to line up with the knife edge of your serger. THIS WILL MAKE A NATURAL PLEAT! Flatten the pleat (it will look like a little ice cream cone).

Continue to sew straight, keeping the fabric along the edge until you have completed the corner.

Open up the fabric and BAM, there you have it!

If there is just slight puckering, this can be pressed out.

NOTE: if the fabric is thicker, you may need to clip the corner just slightly 1/16 of an inch before sewing. You shouldn’t have a problem with lighter weight fabrics.

Once again, practice and test out the fabric you’re using on your project to see whether you need to clip the corner or not.

I hope that was helpful. Please leave a comment if you have any questions.

Here are a few other blog posts you may be interested in:

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Jan Howell

My intention for this website is to share tips and tutorials that I have found on my journey of life that has brought me joy, improved health, and peace, in hopes that it will do the same for you. I hope you'll join me on this journey!

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

4 Basic Sewing Machine Seams and Seam Allowance Tips

In this tutorial I am going to go over the basic sewing machine seams and give you some seam allowance tips.

What are seams?

Seams are the building blocks of a clothing item and are the points of connection between fabric pieces. As a beginner seamstress, the first thing you will learn how to do is sew a basic seam. (Sew two pieces of fabric together).

There are several different types of sewing stitches that you can use to make up seams. Be sure to check out my SEW SIMPLE SERIES, A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SEWING, where I show you all the basic stitches, seams and guide you through several easy sewing projects. (PATTERNS INCLUDED).

What is a seam allowance?

Whenever you sew seams, you’ll have some kind of seam allowance. This is the distance from the seamline to the raw edge of the fabric, which allows the fabric pieces to be durably connected without fraying or coming unsewn.

Here are some basic seam allowance “facts” and “rules”

The width of the seam allowance depends on the type of fabric and the seam finishing technique used. A thicker, bulkier fabric requires a larger seam allowance while thinner, lightweight fabrics work well with a narrower seam allowance.
The most commonly used seam allowance measures 3/8” to ½”.
Some seam allowances are finished to ensure seam durability and prevent the raw fabric edges from fraying. Fabrics like knit or polyester do not need to be finished. Here are some simple techniques to finish seams (NO SERGER NEEDED).
After the seam is stitched, the seam allowance should always be ironed down in a specified direction in order for the seam to lay flat (you’ll see a demonstration of this in the sewing tutorial video below).
All conventional sewing machines have a seam allowance guide to the right of the sewing machine needle. In order to sew each seam at the proper seam allowance, the raw edge of the fabric is aligned with the appropriate seam allowance guideline according to the required seam allowance length. In my tutorials, I usually give some great tips on things you can do and use to make following these guides easier.
Most patterns will give you the SEAM ALLOWANCE requirements and measurement for that specific project. If it doesn’t, use the standard 3/8 inch seam allowance. (This by the way is just the edge of your normal presser foot).

BASIC 3/8 INCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

Place the two pieces of fabric you are working with together, matching edges and pin in place. Use the 3/8 inch guide on the top plate of your machine to line up the edges of the fabric, or if your presser foot edge is at that measurement, you can just use the edge of the presser foot as your guide.
Sew the seam. Open up the seam allowance and press flat using an iron.

FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

A flat felled seam is basically an overlapping seam that’s sewn flat. When the seam is complete, there are no raw edges showing. It’s used frequently in menswear because it’s extremely durable and sturdy and provides a neat finish. If you’re wearing jeans, take a look at the seams. They are almost certainly flat-felled. Use a flat felled seam on shirts or trousers, which see a lot of stress, and you’ll get a durable finish.

Here’s how to go about sewing a flat felled seam.

Pin fabric with right sides together. You will be using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. I like to place a piece of masking or painter’s tape onto the sewing plate at the 5/8 inch mark. This will help you see more clearly and help you guide the fabric along as you sew.
Instead of pressing the seam open, you’re going to fold the seam allowance to one side and press.
Flip the fabric over to the right side. Now sew a straight line on the side that the seam allowance is pressed to.
Sew 1/8 inch from the seam line fold. TIP: Most presser feet will have little notches indicating 1/8 inch marks. This is nice to use this feature when sewing this seam. Simple line the fabric up with that right 1/8 inch guide and sew away.

FINISHED FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

Sew the seam with a ½ seam allowance. Before pressing the seam, take your scissors and trim away ¼ inch from the right seam allowance.
Fold the uncut seam allowance over the cut seam allowance and press in place.
Now fold the top seam allowance under ¼ inch encasing the cut allowance. Press in place.
Backside
Front side
Topstitch in place along the folded edge to secure in place.

FRENCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

French seams are perfect to use on lightweight, sheer fabrics, or lace. I like using this seam when I make pillowcases. The seam encasing all of the fraying fabric edges inside a tiny seam allowance of 1/4″ (5mm). French seams can be great to use if you haven’t got an overlocker (serger) and want to create a perfect finish to your project.

When sewing a French seam, you start by placing WRONG SIDES OF THE FABRIC TOGETHER, instead of right sides together.
Sew the first seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then, fold the fabric along the seam line, so the right sides of the fabric are together and the stitching is at the edge of the fold. Press well, so you are working with a sharp crease at the fold on the seam. You may want to pin the fabric edge, especially if you are using a slippery fabric.
Now sew another seam using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
right side of fabric
Press the finished seam to one side or the other.

There you have it, 4 basic seams for you to use.

HINT: my SEW SIMPLE COURSE COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS AND MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL SIZES OF PILLOWCASES.

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Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Items & Materials Needed

DID YOU KNOW?

How to Sew On A Button

TWO HOLE BUTTON

FOUR HOLE BUTTON

SHANK BUTTON

OTHER POSTS YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN:

Jan Howell

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Jan Howell

Related Posts

Typical Corners and Curves Sewing Projects

Tips for Sewing OUTER CURVES

Tips for sewing INNER CURVES

Outer Corners

Inner Corners

Here are a few other blog posts you may be interested in:

Jan Howell

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Related Posts

What are seams?

What is a seam allowance?

Here are some basic seam allowance “facts” and “rules”

BASIC 3/8 INCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

FINISHED FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

FRENCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

OTHER BLOG POSTS YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN:

Jan Howell

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