How To Sew a Zipper Pouch With Contrasting Zipper Trim / Easy Sewing Tutorial

How to sew zipper trim to zipper pouches

If you love making zipper pouches, here’s a simple way to take them up a notch by adding some contrasting fabric zipper trim.

It’s such a small detail, but look at the difference it makes!

Adding a strip of coordinating or contrasting fabric next to the zipper gives an ordinary zipper pouch a little extra character and a more finished, custom look. It’s also a great way to use some of those smaller fabric scraps you’ve been saving.

The best part? It’s really quite easy to do.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to add fabric zipper trim to a box zipper pouch without zipper tabs, as well as a zipper pouch that uses zipper tabs.

Once you understand the basic technique, you can use it on all kinds of zipper pouch patterns.

STRIPED ZIPPER TRIM ZIPPER POUCH

The best part? It’s really quite easy to do.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to add fabric zipper trim to a box zipper pouch without zipper tabs, as well as a zipper pouch that uses zipper tabs.

Once you understand the basic technique, you can use it on all kinds of zipper pouch patterns.

What Is Fabric Zipper Trim?

Fabric zipper trim is simply a narrow strip of fabric sewn between the zipper and the main zipper panel.

Instead of having the zipper sewn directly next to your main fabric, you get a little pop of contrasting fabric running alongside it.

You can make the trim subtle by using coordinating fabrics, or make it stand out with stripes, bright colors, or fun prints.

This is one of those little sewing details that can make a simple handmade bag look extra special.

Materials and Supplies

You’ll need:

zipper trim pouch panels

For each zipper panel, cut:

Fabric trim: 2 inches wide × the length of your outer zipper panel

Medium-weight fusible interfacing: 1½ inches wide × the length of the fabric trim

You’ll need one fabric trim piece for each side of the zipper.

zipper trim

Step 1: Apply the Interfacing

Place the fabric strip with the wrong side facing up.

Position the fusible interfacing on the back of the fabric with the adhesive/bumpy side facing down.

Center the interfacing on the fabric strip and fuse it in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The interfacing gives the trim a little extra stability and helps it keep a nice crisp shape.

zipper trim

Step 2: Press the Fabric Trim

Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise and press it well.

You’ll now have a folded strip about 1 inch wide.

Step 3: Sew the Trim to the Zipper Panel

Locate the top edge of your outer zipper panel.

Place the raw edges of the folded trim along the panel’s top raw edge.

If you’re using directional fabric, pay attention to which direction your fabric needs to face once the zipper is installed.

Pin or clip the layers in place.

Set your sewing machine to a regular straight stitch with a stitch length of approximately 2.5.

Sew the trim to the panel using a ¼-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and end.

zipper trim pressing

Step 4: Topstitch the Trim

Fold the trim away from the main fabric and press it flat.

zipper trimTopstitch approximately ⅛ inch from the seam.

I like to increase my stitch length to about 3.0 for topstitching. The slightly longer stitch gives the topstitching a nice finished look.

Repeat these steps for the other zipper panel.

trimming zipper panel zipper trim

Step 5: Trim the Zipper Panels Back to Size

This step is important!

Adding the fabric trim increases the overall size of your zipper panels.

After you’ve sewn and topstitched the trim, place your outer zipper panel next to its corresponding lining piece.

Trim the outer panel so that it is exactly the same size as the lining piece.

Don’t worry if your finished trim width varies slightly. What’s important is that your outer and lining pieces are the same size before you continue assembling the pouch.

boxed zipper pouch with zipper trim

Adding Fabric Trim to a Box Zipper Pouch

If you’re making a box zipper pouch that doesn’t use zipper tabs, add the contrasting trim to your zipper panels using the steps above.

Once the trim is attached and the panels have been trimmed back to the correct size, continue sewing the pouch according to the regular pattern instructions.

The trim simply becomes part of your outer zipper panel.

LEARN HOW TO MAKE A BOXED ZIPPER POUCH HERE

zipper pouch with tabs and zipper trim

Adding Fabric Trim to a Zipper Pouch With Zipper Tabs

You can use the same technique on zipper pouches that have fabric zipper tabs at the ends of the zipper.

First, add and topstitch the contrasting trim to your zipper panels.

zipper trim panelTrim the panels back to the correct size.

zipper pouch tabs with zipper trim Next, prepare your zipper and add the zipper tabs as you normally would.

diy ZIPPER TABSLEARN HOW TO MAKE A ZIPPER POUCH WITH ZIPPER TABS

When you’re ready to install the zipper, simply treat the zipper trim as if it’s part of your main fabric.

ZIPPER TRIM Mark your zipper placement points and sew the zipper into the pouch according to your pattern instructions.

zipper trim pinning tip

An Important Tip for Matching the Trim

Here’s one little detail that makes a BIG difference in how your finished pouch looks.

When you pin the pouch pieces together, make sure the edges of the contrasting zipper trim line up perfectly on both sides of the zipper.

I prefer using pins in this area instead of sewing clips because clips can sometimes allow the fabric layers to shift.

Take an extra minute to match those seams before sewing.

It’s worth it!

zipper pouch zipper trim

Try Different Fabric Combinations

This is where you can have some fun.

Try combining:

  • Stripes with florals

  • Solids with busy prints

  • Small scraps from another part of the bag

  • Bright colors with neutral fabrics

  • Contrasting zipper tabs and zipper trim

  • Coordinating fabrics from the same collection

CROCHET ZIPPER POUCH

You can even use this technique when adding a zipper to a crochet bag. The little strip of fabric creates a nice transition between the crochet texture and the zipper.

LEARN HOW TO ADD A ZIPPER TO A CROCHET ZIPPER POUCH

A Simple Detail That Makes a Big Difference

I love sewing techniques like this because they don’t add a lot of extra work, but they can completely change the look of a project.

Once you know how to add contrasting fabric zipper trim, you can use the technique on all kinds of zipper pouches and bags.

And since the strips are small, it’s another great way to put those leftover fabric scraps to good use.

Have fun experimenting with different fabrics and color combinations. You may find yourself wanting to add zipper trim to every pouch you make!

Happy sewing!

 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Alter a Bucket Hat Sewing Pattern To Get a Perfect Fit

bucket hat alterations
bucket hat alterations

One of the best things about sewing your own bucket hat is that you can customize it to fit your personal style and head shape.

Before making adjustments, I always recommend sewing your first hat exactly as written in the pattern instructions.

Once you’ve tried it on, you can decide whether you’d like a wider brim, a narrower brim, or a taller or shorter crown.

These simple alterations will help you create a bucket hat that fits and looks exactly the way you want.

bucket hat alterations

How to Adjust the Brim Width

The easiest bucket hat alteration is changing the brim width.

To Make the Brim Wider

Trace around the outside edge of the brim pattern piece, extending it by the desired amount.

You can add:

  1. ¼ inch for a subtle change

  2. ½ inch for additional sun protection

  3. 1 inch or more for a dramatic sun hat look

NEVER MESS WITH THE INNER EDGE!

To Make the Brim Narrower

Simply trim away the desired amount from the outer edge of the brim pattern.

Important: Do not alter the inner edge of the brim. The inner edge must remain the same so it continues to fit the crown properly.

A Note About Interfacing

Keep in mind that wider brims tend to become floppier. You may want to use a heavier interfacing or add an extra layer of stabilizer to help the brim hold its shape.

How to Adjust the Crown Height

Head shapes vary considerably. Some people prefer a deeper hat that sits lower, while others like a shorter crown that sits higher on the head.

A simple slash-and-spread method makes it easy to adjust crown height.

BUCKET HAT ALTERATIONS
bucket hat alterations
bucket hat

To Increase Crown Height

  1. Draw a line across the center of the side crown piece.

  2. Cut along this line.

  3. Spread the pattern pieces apart by the desired amount.

  4. Tape the cut pieces to a new piece of paper.
  5. Keep the grainline straight.

  6. Blend the side edges smoothly.

To Decrease Crown Height

  1. Draw a line across the center of the side crown piece.

  2. Cut along the line.

  3. Overlap the pieces by the desired amount.

  4. Keep the grainline straight.

  5. Tape pieces together.
  6. Blend the side edges smoothly.

Even a ½-inch adjustment can noticeably change how the hat fits and feels.

Finding Your Perfect Fit

Everyone’s head shape is unique, which is why pattern adjustments are so valuable. Don’t be afraid to experiment with small changes until you find the fit you love.

Once you’ve made your custom adjustments, write them directly on your pattern pieces so you can recreate that perfect fit every time you sew a new bucket hat.

GET THE BUCKET HAT PATTERNS HERE:

bucket hat alterations

Bucket Hat

This also comes in a Bucket Hat Bundle, including baby and child sizes

 

DIY Visor Bucket Hat

VISOR BUCKET HAT

 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How to Easily Choose the Right Interfacing for Any Sewing Project

choosing the right interfacing

Understanding interfacing can completely change the way your sewing projects look and feel. The good news is, it really doesn’t have to be complicated.

Have you ever finished a sewing project and thought…why:

  • does this bag feel floppy?
  • is this collar wrinkled?
  • does this zipper area stretch out?
  • does this project just look a little… homemade?

Chances are, the problem may not be your sewing skills at all. It could simply be the type of interfacing or stabilizer you used.


In this beginner-friendly guide, I’m going to:

  • simplify the different types of interfacing and fabric stabilizers
  • explain what they’re used for, and help you decide which one works best for your sewing projects.
interfacing bag

What Is Interfacing?

Interfacing is a material that is added to fabric to give it more:

  • structure

  • stability

  • support

  • durability

  • shape

It is commonly used in:

  • collars

  • cuffs

  • waistbands

  • bags and pouches

  • button plackets

  • zipper areas

  • quilted projects

  • home decor items

Without a stabilizer, many sewing projects can feel limp, stretchy, or unstable.

interfacing

The Most Important Rule About Interfacing

 

Match the weight of the stabilizer to the weight of the fabric.

Examples:

  • Lightweight cotton fabric → lightweight interfacing

  • Medium-weight fabric → medium-weight interfacing

  • Knit fabric → knit interfacing

  • Structured bags → heavier stabilizer or foam

Using a stabilizer that is too heavy can make the fabric stiff and unnatural.

If you use an interfacing that is too light, it may not provide enough support.

interfacing store
knit interfacing

Types of Interfacing and Stabilizers – Woven 

There are many different brands and products available, but most stabilizers fall into a few basic categories.

You can purchase them in fabric stores or online. They can be bought on the bolt, by the yard, or packaged.

1. Woven Fusible Interfacing

Woven interfacing behaves much like fabric because it actually has a grainline.

It adds support while still allowing fabric to drape naturally.

Best Uses:

  • shirt collars

  • cuffs

  • button plackets

  • garment sewing

  • lightweight cotton projects

Why Sewists Love It

Woven interfacing gives projects a more professional finish without making them overly stiff.

One of the most popular types is:

  • Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex

This is a favorite for many garment and bag sewists because it adds soft structure while keeping the fabric flexible.

non-woven interfacing

2. Non-Woven Fusible Interfacing

Non-woven interfacing has more of a paper-like texture and does not have a grainline.

It is one of the most common types of interfacing for beginners.

Best Uses:

  • zipper pouches

  • craft projects

  • simple bags

  • quilting cotton projects

Things to Know

Non-woven interfacing is inexpensive and easy to use, but heavier versions can sometimes feel stiff.

This is a great everyday interfacing for many sewing projects.

knit interfacing

3. Knit Interfacing (Tricot Interfacing)

Knit interfacing is designed specifically for stretchy fabrics.

Unlike regular interfacing, it stretches with the fabric rather than fighting it.KNIT INTERFACING

Best Uses:

  • t-shirts

  • knit necklines

  • stretchy hems

  • zipper areas on knit fabric

Why It Matters

Using regular interfacing on knit fabric can make the fabric stiff and distorted.

Knit interfacing helps stabilize the fabric while still maintaining stretch and comfort.

4. Fusible Fleece

Fusible fleece adds softness, padding, and body rather than stiffness.

It creates a soft, structured look that works beautifully for many sewing projects.

Best Uses:

  • tote bags

  • zipper pouches

  • placemats

  • table runners

  • cosmetic bags

What It Does Best

Fusible fleece helps projects feel soft and padded while still holding their shape.

If you want a project to feel cushioned instead of stiff, fusible fleece is a great option.

foam stabilizer

5. Foam Stabilizer

Foam stabilizer is thicker and more structured than fleece.

It creates dimension and helps projects stand upright.

Best Uses:

  • structured bags

  • eyeglass cases
  • laptop bags

  • standing baskets

  • travel bags

Why It’s Popular

Foam stabilizer gives sewing projects that professional store-bought appearance, many sewists are

Fusible vs. Sew-In Interfacing

Interfacing generally comes in two forms:

Fusible Interfacing

This type has adhesive on one side that bonds to fabric with heat from an iron.

Pros:

  • easy to apply

  • keeps layers together

  • beginner friendly

Cons:

  • can bubble if applied incorrectly

Sew-In Interfacing

This type is sewn into the project instead of fused with heat.

Pros:

  • great for delicate fabrics

  • no risk of bubbling

  • softer drape

Cons:

  • requires more sewing steps

Most beginners prefer fusible interfacing because it is faster and easier to use.

interfacing comparrison

How to Apply Fusible Interfacing Correctly

***BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE INTERFACING/STABILIZER. (Some can be different).

One of the biggest frustrations with interfacing is bubbling or wrinkling after fusing.

1. Identify the Glue Side

The rough or bumpy side is usually the adhesive side.

Place the glue side against the wrong side of the fabric.

2. Press — Don’t Iron

Instead of sliding the iron back and forth:

  • press down firmly

  • hold for 10–15 seconds

  • lift and move to the next section

Sliding the iron can stretch and distort the fabric.

3. Use a Pressing Cloth

A pressing cloth helps protect fabric and prevents adhesive from transferring to the iron.

4. Let It Cool Completely

After fusing, allow the fabric to cool flat before moving it.

This helps the adhesive bond properly.

Tip for applying fusible interfacing to pattern pieces. (bucket hats, bag, and pouch panels, etc.)

tip

Here is a great tip that really makes a huge difference when applying fusible interfacing.

  1. Cut a piece of interfacing into a rectangle slightly larger than the pattern piece.

  2. Now, cut a piece of fabric the same size.

  3. Cut out the paper pattern piece.

  4. Place the interfacing with the bumpy side FACING DOWN.

  5. Trace around the pattern piece.

  6. Turn the interfacing so the bumpy side is FACING UP.

  7. Place the fabric onto the interfacing with the RIGHT SIDE FACING UP.

  8. Start pressing, not ironing, from the center out. Making sure to cover the whole area.

  9. Test to see if it has completely adhered, and let it cool.

  10. Now cut out the pattern pieces, and you’ll have a nice crisp edge and all layers lined up. Yay!

Common Interfacing Mistakes

  • Using Interfacing That Is Too Heavy

This can make projects stiff, bulky, or difficult to sew.

  • Using Lightweight Interfacing on Heavy Fabric

Heavy fabrics may still feel floppy if the stabilizer is too light.

  • Stretching Fabric While Fusing

    This can distort the shape of the project.

  • Skipping Test Swatches

    Always test interfacing on a scrap piece of fabric first.

    This helps you check:

    • stiffness

    • drape

    • shrinkage

    • adhesion

My Favorite Everyday Stabilizers

These are a few stabilizers I personally reach for over and over:

For Garments

For Bags and Pouches

For Knit Fabrics

For Structured Bags

Final Thoughts

Interfacing may seem confusing at first, but once you understand a few basic categories, choosing the right stabilizer becomes much easier.

The right choice can instantly make your sewing projects:

  • look more professional

  • hold their shape better

  • last longer

  • feel more polished

And honestly, it can save a lot of frustration along the way.

Once you start experimenting with different stabilizers, you’ll quickly discover which ones work best for the types of projects you love to sew most.

Happy sewing!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How to Make Zipper Tabs the Easy Way | Simple Tips and Tricks

diy ZIPPER TABS
zipper tabs DIY

If your zipper tabs always come out bulky, awkward, or just plain messy, you are not alone. Zipper tabs can make a zipper pouch look polished and professional—but they can also be one of the most frustrating parts of the whole project.

Corners get bulky, tabs get twisted, seams end up too thick, and suddenly your “cute little zipper pouch” is fighting back. The good news? There’s a much easier way.

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you my favorite method for making clean, flat zipper tabs that look neat and professional without adding extra bulk. I’ll also share several time-saving sewing tips that make the zipper pouch process easier and less stressful.

If you love making zipper pouches, bags, or small sewing projects, this is one technique worth keeping in your back pocket.

ZIPPER TABS

Why Use Zipper Tabs?

Zipper tabs may seem like a small detail, but they make a big difference in how your pouch turns out.

Benefits of zipper tabs:

  • Give your zipper pouch a clean, finished look
  • Help reduce zipper bulk at the ends
  • Make it easier to sew the zipper into the pouch
  • Prevent awkward gaps at the zipper ends
  • Add a more professional-looking finish
  • And when done the right way, they really don’t take much extra time.

What You’ll Need

Here are the basic supplies I used for this zipper tab tutorial:

Materials:

  • 2 outer zipper pouch panels
  • 2 lining panels
  • 1 zipper
  • Interfacing (optional, but recommended for outer fabric)
  • Zipper tab fabric piece (Cut 2 inches x 5 inches)
zipper tabs cutting out

Tools:

For this sample pouch, the fabric panels were cut 9 inches x 7 inches, and the zipper was trimmed to 8 inches.

ziperr tab zipper

Best Zipper Length for Zipper Pouches

A good general rule is:

Cut your zipper 1 inch shorter than the width of your pouch panel.

So if your pouch panel is 9 inches wide, cut your zipper to 8 inches.

My favorite tip:

I actually like to cut the zipper just a tiny bit shorter than that measurement.
That tiny adjustment gives your zipper tabs a little more room and helps them fit more neatly without crowding the side seams.

It’s one of those little sewing tricks that makes a big difference.

How to Prep the Pouch Panels

Before attaching your zipper tabs, take a minute to prep your zipper properly.

Step 1: Mark your pouch panels

Measure and mark ½ inch in from each side edge on:

  • your outer fabric panels
  • your lining panels

These marks help you line up the zipper correctly later.

zipper tabs cutting out

How to Make Zipper Tabs the Easy Way

This is the method that gives a really clean finish without extra fuss.zipper tabs sewing

Step 1: Position the zipper on the tab fabric

Take your 2″ x 5″ zipper tab fabric piece and place it:
• Right side facing up
• Lay the zipper right side facing down
• Fold the other end of the zipper around to create a loop
• Line up both zipper ends with the edges of the fabric
Clip in place.zipper tabs sewing

Step 2: Sew across the zipper tab

Sew across the fabric using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Helpful tip:

If it’s hard to see your seam allowance line, place a piece of painter’s tape on your sewing machine bed to mark your guide.

That little trick makes sewing straighter so much easier.

Step 3: Cut the tab in half

Once sewn, cut the tab piece in half, leaving one tab on each end of the zipper.

Step 4: Fold and press the tabs
Now:

• Fold the tab fabric back
• Press well
• Fold the raw edge inward toward the zipper
• Fold again over the zipper edge

The goal is for the folded edge to sit just shy of the stitching line—not past it.

That helps keep things flatter and neater.

zipper tabs glue

Step 5: Use glue instead of extra stitching

Rather than sewing across the tabs again and adding more bulk, add a few small dabs of:
• glue-basting pen
• or a regular glue stick
Then press with an iron to hold everything in place.

This is one of my favorite shortcuts because it keeps the tabs secure without adding unnecessary thickness.

How to Sew the Zipper Into the Pouch

Once your tabs are attached, it’s time to sandwich the zipper between your outer and lining pieces.

Layer order:

1. Outer fabric – right side up
2. Zipper – right side down
3. Lining – right side down
Line up the zipper with your ½-inch side marks and clip or pin it in place.zipper tabs pouch

Sew with a ¼ inch seam allowance

Take it to the sewing machine and sew along the zipper edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Do You Need a Zipper Foot?
Short answer?

Nope. Not necessarily.
You can use a zipper foot, but I actually find that using a regular presser foot with the needle moved to the left is often easier and more stable.

Why this works well:

• Better fabric support
• Easier to guide straight
• Less shifting around zipper teeth
• No constant swapping of presser feetzipper tabs needle position

To do this:

• Move your needle position to the left
• Lower your presser foot, so the edge of the foot runs along the zipper teeth
• Test a few stitches by hand-turning the wheel first to check placement

This is one of those “why did nobody tell me this sooner?” sewing tricks.

tip

Tip for sewing past the zipper pull:

When you get to the zipper pull:
• Stop with your needle down
• Lift the presser foot
• Move the zipper pull out of the way
• Lower the foot and keep sewing
Simple, but very important if you want clean stitching.

Topstitching Tip for a Professional Finish

After sewing the zipper in on both sides, press the fabric away from the zipper and topstitch around it.

For neater topstitching:

• Increase stitch length to 3.0
• Hold your top thread when starting
• Use the edge of your presser foot as a visual guide
• Skip stitching across the folded zipper tab area

That topstitching really helps the zipper lay flat and gives the pouch a more finished, polished look.

The Most Important Tip for Flat, Non-Bulky Zipper Tabs

Okay—this is the big one.
If your zipper tabs always end up bulky or bunched up, this is probably why:

Don’t sew the pouch together with a ½ inch seam allowance.

A lot of pouch tutorials and patterns use a ½ inch seam allowance, but when you do that, you often end up sewing into the zipper tab itself.
That creates:
• extra bulk
• bunching
• weird corners
• thick seams that don’t turn nicely

Instead, use a ⅜ inch seam allowance

That gives you enough room so your side seams don’t hit the folded zipper tabs—and your pouch will still look great and function perfectly.

Honestly, this one adjustment alone can completely change how your zipper pouches turn out.

Extra Tip: Glue the Seam Allowance Down

Before sewing your pouch together, fold the zipper seam allowance toward the outer fabric and lightly glue it down.

This keeps everything flat and prevents those seam allowances from shifting and causing problems while you sew.

It’s a small step, but it makes sewing around the zipper area much easier.

Assemble the Pouch

Now bring your pouch together:

Step 1:

Place:
• outer fabrics right sides together
• lining fabrics right sides together

zipper tabs Step 2:

At the zipper tab area:
• push the zipper tab, bend toward the lining
• pinch and line everything up carefully
• pin well

This part needs to be lined up precisely, so I definitely recommend pins over clips here. Clips are great… until they betray you. 😏

trimming seams zipper tabs

Step 3:

Sew around the pouch using your ⅜ inch seam allowance, leaving an opening in the lining for turning.
If your pouch has:
• box corners
• a flat bottom
• another base style
You can sew that using your preferred method.

Sewing Over Bulky Zipper Areas

When sewing over the zipper tab area, your presser foot may tilt upward because of the thickness.

Easy fix:

Use a hump jumper (or a folded scrap of fabric) behind the presser foot to level it out.

That helps the presser foot and feed dogs move evenly across the bulky area without skipping or getting stuck.

trimming seams zipper tabs

Finish the Pouch

Once the pouch is sewn:

Step 1:

Trim the seam allowance down to about ¼ inch, especially around the zipper area.zipper tabs

Step 2:

Turn the pouch right side out through the lining opening.

Use a turning stick to poke out the tabs and corners of the zipper pouch.

Step 3:

Close the lining opening by:
• machine stitching
• or hand stitching for a cleaner finish

And that’s it—you should now have flat, neat, professional-looking zipper tabs without the bulky mess.

zipper tabs label

Add a cute label or tag to your pouch.

You can create and customize your own labels. LEARN HOW HERE.

Final Thoughts

If zipper tabs have been driving you a little bonkers, hopefully, this method helps simplify the process.
The biggest takeaways are:

Quick zipper tab success tips:

• Cut your zipper just a tiny bit shorter than usual
• Use glue instead of extra stitching when possible
• Try using your regular presser foot with the needle shifted left
• Topstitch for a flatter finish
• Use a ⅜ inch seam allowance when sewing the pouch together

That last tip, especially, can make a huge difference in how clean your pouch looks.
Once you try this method a couple of times, zipper tabs become a lot less intimidating—and a lot more satisfying.

Watch the Video Tutorial

If you’d like to see this process step by step, be sure to watch the full video tutorial on YouTube.

zipper tabs label
tip

 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Sew With a Twin Needle / Setup, Tips & Creative Uses

twin needle
TWIN NEEDLE

If you’ve ever struggled to get professional-looking hems on knit fabrics, or wondered what in the world a twin needle is actually for… you’re in the right place.

In a previous tutorial, I showed you how to hem knit fabrics using a twin needle, but in this post, we’re taking a deeper dive. 

sewing with a twin needle

A twin needle isn’t just for hems. This little gadget can add texture, stability, decorative stitching, and some seriously fun details to your sewing projects — whether you’re working with knits or wovens.

twin needle

What Is a Twin Needle?

A twin needle is exactly what it sounds like — two needles attached to one shaft that fits right into a standard home sewing machine. It creates:

  • Two parallel stitches on top
  • A zigzag stitch on the underside

This is what gives twin-needle hems that stretchy, ready-to-wear look.

twin needle

Needle Packaging Numbers Explained

If needle packaging has always confused you, you’re not alone.

First number = distance between the needles (ex: 4.0mm)

Second number = needle size (ex: 75, 100)

The type = stretch, universal, denim, etc.
Examples:

  • 4.0 / 75 Stretch → perfect for knit fabrics
  • 1.0 / 70 Universal → very narrow, great for lightweight fabrics
  • 4.0 / 100 Denim → strong enough for thick seams and topstitching
twin needl supplies

What You’ll Need

  • Your sewing machine
  • Twin needle appropriate for your project (This set comes with a variety)
  • Two spools of thread (or one spool + a matching bobbin)
  • A bobbin filled with the same color threadpressor foot twin needle
  • Presser foot with a wide opening (zigzag or pintuck foot)
  • Scrap fabric for testing tensiontwin needle thread
  • A place to hold the second spool — your machine may have a hidden spot for this, and come with another bit of spindle attachment. If not, you can order one here. 

twin needle threadTIP: If your machine doesn’t include a second spool pin, you can stack a wound bobbin on top of your main thread spool and secure it with a thread cap.

How to Set Up and Thread a Twin Needle

  1. Insert the twin needle with the flat side facing back.
  2. Place your two threads on the machine.threading twin needle
  3. If your machine has two tension channels, separate them. If not, thread both together through the same path.
  4. Separate the threads before the final needle guide.twin needle
  5. Only thread the left thread through the needle guide.
  6. Thread each needle individually.

twin needle positionMake sure your stitch is set to straight stitch and center needle position.breaking a twin needle
***VERY IMPORTANT:
Do NOT choose a zigzag stitch. Do NOT move your needle position left or right. That’s the fast track to snapping needles — ask me how I know.

 

Twin Needle Stitch Settings

Length:

Lightweight wovens → 2.0–3.0
Medium fabrics → 2.5–3.0
Denim → 3.5–4.0

Tension:

Start at four and only adjust if needed.
Avoid significant tension changes — too much fiddling can throw off your machine’s internal calibration.

Pintucks, Grids & Decorative Stitching

This is where it gets fun.

  • Using a pintuck foot, you can create tiny raised ridges that add beautiful texture to blouses, bags, quilt panels, and more.
  • Stitching on lightweight fabrics creates a lovely “tunneling” effect.

twin needle gridTo Make A Gridded Texture

Draw a one-inch grid with a heat-erase marker and sew all vertical lines, then horizontal lines.

The result is a raised quilted texture that looks fantastic on:

  • Zipper pouches
  • Bag panels
  • Decorative pillows

twin needle decorative stitchesDecorative Stitches

If your machine allows it, you can use a twin needle with decorative stitches—or even two different thread colors!

twin needle decoratative stitches

Using a Twin Needle on Clothing

Twin needles shine on knit garments:

  • Hemming t-shirts and leggings
  • Stitching bindings
  • Flattening seam
  • allowances
  • Adding decorative contrast lines

That parallel topstitch gives your project that clean, store-bought finish.

Twin NeedleTroubleshooting Common Problems

❌ Skipped Stitches

  • Wrong needle type
  • Incorrect threading
  • Tension disks not engaged

 

❌ Broken Needle

  • Using zigzag stitch
  • Needle in left/right position
  • Presser foot opening too narrow

❌ Tunneling

  • Reduce tension slightly
  • Use a stabilizer or wash-away tape
  • Shorten stitch length
  • Use a pintuck foot (on purpose!)

❌ Uneven Stitches

  • Sew more steadily
  • Use a walking foot
  • Avoid frequent stopping/starting

Once you get the hang of it, the twin needle becomes one of those “why didn’t I use this sooner?” tools.

It creates beautiful hems, adds texture, and opens up tons of creative possibilities for bag-making, garment sewing, quilting, and upcycling.

I hope this tutorial gives you the confidence to pull out that twin needle you bought years ago and finally put it to work!

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Hem Knit Fabrics / 4 easy Ways to Get a Professional Finish

hemming knit fabric
hemming knit fabric

Have you ever tried to hem a t-shirt, leggings, or another stretchy item only to end up with a wavy, stretched-out mess? 😬 It can be so frustrating — but it doesn’t have to be!

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you four simple ways to hem knit fabric so your projects look clean, professional, and wave-free.

These methods are easy to do, and once you try them, you’ll never dread hemming stretch fabric again.

Use the Right Needle

Before anything else, make sure you’re using the correct needle for knit fabrics.

A ballpoint needle of some kind, a stretch needle, jersey or microtex needle gently separates the fabric fibers instead of piercing them, preventing those annoying little holes along your stitches.

tip

Keep your needles organized!

I like to store my “in-use” needle in a labeled pin cushion so I always know what’s in my machine.

needle pin cushion

LEARN HOW TO MAKE A SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PINCUSHION HERE: 

1. Stabilize with Stitch Witchery Fusible Web

If your fabric edges love to curl, fusible bonding web will be your best friend.hemming knit fabric stitch witchery

  • Stitch Witchery comes in two different widths (¼” or ⅝” wide), place it along the hem edge, fold the fabric over, and press with your iron. This gives your hem stability and keeps it flat while you sew.
  • Then, use a zigzag stitch or lightning bolt stitch so your seam can stretch with the fabric.

hem knit fabrics❌ Avoid straight stitches when sewing on any stretchy fabrics — they’ll pop when the fabric stretches!

2. Wash-Away Wonder Tape

This is one of my go-to hemming hacks!

Wash-Away Wonder Tape is a double-sided adhesive tape that holds your hem in place perfectly without pins.

  • Apply it to the wrong side of your fabric, peel off the paper backing, fold the hem, and sew.

The best part? It won’t gum up your sewing machine needle.

💧 Important: After sewing, wash your project before wearing or using, to dissolve the tape before stretching the fabric — otherwise, your stitches may pop.

spry starch hemming knit fabrics

3. Spray Starch for Extra Control

Sometimes all you need is a little extra control!

A light mist of spray starch makes your knit fabric more stable and easier to fold.

  • Lay down some paper to protect your ironing surface, spray your hem area well, and press it in place.

This will not hold it in place or make it stiff forever, but it will give you just enough structure to get a clean, even fold before sewing.

hemming knit fabrics top stitching twin needle

4. Get a Professional Look with a Twin Needle

hemming knit fabrics top stitching twin needle

If you want that store-bought finish on your t-shirts and leggings, a twin needle is the secret weapon.

It creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side and a zigzag on the back, allowing for stretch while looking polished.

Threading two needles on a regular sewing machine is easier than it looks. 

  1. Insert the twin needle into your machine.
  2. Set the machine to a normal STRAIGHT STITCH (2.5)
  3. Thread your machine just like you always do.
  4. Add another spool of thread using the extra spindle tha most sewing machines will have. You can use another spool or thread or a bobbin.threading a twin neeedle
  5. Thread it through the machine the same way. EXCEPT, DO NOT THREAD IT THROUGHT THE THREAD GUIDE as shown in the picture above.
  6. Thread both needles and you are ready to roll.
    *** Make sure you are using a presser foot that allows the zig zag stitch.
hemming knit fabrics twin needle

Sew on the right side of the fabric, and hold your threads for a few stitches to avoid thread nests.

And there you have it — four easy, reliable ways to hem stretchy knit fabric like a pro.

Whether you use

these methods will give you smooth, flat hems every time.

Which technique do you like best?

Let me know in the comments below!

Stay tuned — I’ve got more knit fabric projects and patterns coming up that will show you just how fun and easy sewing with knits can be.

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How to Adjust the Size of a Boxed Zipper Pouch / Super Easy Formula

boxed zipper pouch measurement formula

Zipper pouches are one of those projects you can never have too many of—practical, cute, and surprisingly simple to sew.

But what if the pattern you’re using isn’t the size you want? Do you cross your fingers and hope for the best?

Nope—there’s an easy formula you can use to make your pouch exactly the size you need.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the simple math behind resizing a boxed zipper pouch.

Once you understand this, you can create pouches in any dimension—perfect for makeup bags, snack bags, or even overnight totes.

Why Adjust the Size of a Zipper Pouch?

  • Maybe you saw a pouch at the store and wished it were just a bit taller.
  • Or perhaps you need something smaller to fit earbuds, lip balm, or a little collection of sewing notions.

Instead of hunting down the “perfect” pattern, you can adjust what you already have.

By using this formula, you’ll be able to:

  • Scale a zipper pouch up or down.
  • Customize the depth and width for your needs.
  • Always know how big to cut your panels and the dimensions of your box corners.

Step 1: Decide on Your Finished Size

The first step is determining how large you want your bag to be.

zipper pouch Tip: Use an existing pouch or gather the items you plan to store in the bag.

Set them side by side to get a sense of the dimensions you’ll need.

For example, I wanted a little overnight pouch to hold facial products. After measuring, I decided:

Length:: 5 ½ inches
Height: 5 inches
Width: 2 inches

CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW TO GET THE FREE PDF.

Step 2: Use the Formula

I recommend downloading and printing this form so you can have it in front of you for visual reference.

Otherwise, I find it’s too easy to forget or get the measurements all mixed up, which can result in the wrong size panel being cut out. (Believe me, I have done it more than once!)

Every pouch starts as a flat rectangle of fabric.

To figure out the size of that rectangle (the panel), use this formula:

Horizontal Cut = Desired Length + Desired HEIGHT+ Seam Allowances x 2 (X 4 IF USING FRENCH SEAMS)
Vertical Cut = Desired WIDTH + Desired HEIGHT+ Seam Allowance x 2

For my example:

HORIZONTAL CUT = DESIRED LENGTH 8″ + DESIRED HEIGHT 8″ + 1 1/4″ (for French seam allowance) = 9 1/4 inches

VERTICAL CUT = DESIRED WIDTH 4″ + DESIRED HEIGHT 8″ = 12″ + (seam allowance) 3/4 inces = 12 3/4″
So, each panel would be 12 3/4 9 1/4  X 13.

boxed cornerYou’ll cut:

2 panels of outer fabric
2 panels of lining
Stabilizer (optional, same size as panels)

zipper length

Step 3: Figure Out the Zipper Length

Your zipper length = DESIRED WIDTH plus 1.  I like to cut it at least 1/2 inch longer, just to be safe. 

If you’re using zipper by the yard (which I love). Cut it to the desired length.
If you’re using a store-bought zipper, choose the closest size and trim if needed.

boxed zipper pouch

Step 4: The Secret to Box Corners

BOX CUTBox Cut = 1/2 of the desired finished height minus 3/4 inch seam allowance. 

boxed corner zipper pouch cutting marks📌 Tip: Always account for the seam allowance when marking your box corners!

Measure from the seam and the fold, NOT THE FABRIC EDGE. 

Step 5: Mark and Cut Correctly

There are two primary methods for marking box corners:

  1. Before sewing the side seams, lay your panel flat and cut the square directly from the corners, ensuring you add the seam allowance.
  2. After sewing the side seams, mark the box cut and then cut. (Measure from the seam).

Either way works—it just depends on your pattern and personal preference.

tip

square ruler painters tapeThis is an excellent tip: when you’re making that box corner, this little square ruler comes in real handy.

You can use a regular ruler, your own, or another type of template that you prefer.

By placing a piece of painter’s tape on the measurement of the cut, it will make it much easier on the eyes, and it will save you time from fidgeting around to find the lines again.  

Step 6: Keep Notes

I highly recommend jotting down your measurements on a printable chart (I created one for you—download it free below!).

This way, you won’t forget your panel and zipper dimensions the next time you want to make the same size pouch.

Write down:

  • Finished bag size
  • Panel dimensions
  • Number of pieces to cut (outer, lining, stabilizer)
  • Zipper length

Final Thoughts

That’s it! With just a little math, you can make zipper pouches in any size you want.

Whether you prefer a tiny pouch for earbuds or a roomy overnight bag, this formula will take the guesswork out of resizing.

✨ Try making a few different sizes—you’ll be surprised how versatile these pouches can be.

My snack bags, for example, use a larger box corner so they stand upright, while some of my cosmetic bags use a much smaller corner for a sleeker look.

Happy sewing—and have fun making your perfect pouch!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Step 3: Figure Out the Zipper Length

Your zipper length = DESIRED  WIDTH  5 1/2 + DESIRED HEIGHT 5 + 2 INCHES. I like to cut it at least 1/2 inch longer, just to be safe. 

For this example:
5 ½” (width) + 5″ (height) + 2″ = 12 ½ to 13 inches.

If you’re using zipper by the yard (which I love). Cut it to the desired length.
If you’re using a store-bought zipper, choose the closest size and trim if needed.

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Related Posts

How to Sew a Zipper Pocket the Easy Way

zipper pocket the easy way

Have you ever looked at a bag pattern and thought, “A zipper pocket? That looks way too complicated!”

I used to think the same thing.
But trust me—it’s much easier than it looks.

Once you try it, you’ll love adding zipper pockets to your handmade bags and clothing.

In this step-by-step tutorial, I’ll show you how to sew a zipper pocket using a cross-body bag lining.

Add this pocket to the inside or outside of a bag—or even a jacket or skirt!

zipper pocket items

Materials You’ll Need

  • Pocket fabric with fusible fleece applied
  • Bag lining piece with fusible fleece
  • Zipper (cut to 8” from zipper-by-the-yard or use a pre-packaged 7” zipper)
  • Zipper pull (if using zipper by the yard)
  • Fabric glue (or glue stick)
  • Basic sewing tools (scissors, pins, sewing machine, ruler)
  • Rotary Cutter/Mat/Ruler (optional)
  • Optional: Zipper template for marking
  • Iron and pressing surface

Step 1: Mark the Zipper Boxzipper pocket center point

  1. Fold your pocket piece and lining piece in half to find the center.
  2. Mark the center fold with a fabric pen or pencil.zipper pocket box markings
  3. Measure down 1½” from the top edge of your pocket fabric and draw a horizontal line.
  4. Then, measure down another ½” and draw a second line.
  5. Draw a 7″ rectangle between the lines, centering it horizontally (3½” from the center mark on each side).
  6. Measure down 1/4 inch from the top of the rectangle and draw another horizontal line.
  7. Mark triangle marks at the ends for clipping.
    Tip: You can use a zipper pocket template if you have one, or make your own.

I’ll show you how to do that in an upcoming tutorial!

Step 2: Sew the Zipper Pocket Box

  1. Place the pocket piece right sides together with the lining piece, aligning the center marks.
  2. Measure 2″ down from the top of the lining and pin the pocket in place.sewing zipper pocket box
  3. Sew around the rectangle, pivoting at each corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end of stitching.

Step 3: Cut the Zipper Opening

  1. Fold the pocket in half vertically along the center slit line and make a small clip with scissors to start the cut.
  2. Cut along the center line and out toward the triangle corners without cutting the stitching.
  3. Flip the pocket fabric through the opening to the back side and press it flat.

Step 4: Insert the Zipper

  1. If you’re using zipper-by-the-yard, attach the zipper pull now. (For a more detailed demo, check my other tutorials.)zipper pocket glue
  2. Apply a thin bead of fabric glue or use a glue stick around the inside edge of the box.zipper pocket zipper application
  3. Place the zipper on the right side up, centered on the opening.zipper pocket pressing
  4. Flip the fabric over, adjust the zipper from the back, and press with an iron to secure.

zipper pocket topstitchingStep 5: Topstitch Around the Zipper Box

  1. Switch to a zipper foot and adjust your needle to the left or right if needed.  You want to sew about 1/8 inch from the fabric edge of the box.
  2. Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0mm) and topstitch around the zipper.tip
  3. Hold the thread tails for the first few stitches to prevent bunching.
    Move the zipper pull out of the way as you sew.

Step 6: Finishing the Zipper Pocketzipper pocket seams

  1. Fold the bottom of the pocket piece in half, right sides together, lining up the top edge.
  2. Clip or pin the sides and top edge.
  3. Sew around the three edges with a ⅜” seam allowance using your regular presser foot and a 2.5mm stitch length. Do not sew the bottom fold.

That’s It!

You’ve just added a zipper pocket to your project—wasn’t that easier than you thought?

It’s neat, functional, and professional-looking.

This pocket is now ready to be inserted into my crossbody bag project.

Be sure to check out the crossbody bag tutorial and pattern!

Want to Learn More?

Be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don’t miss future tutorials.
Visit youmakeitsimple.com store for patterns and printables.

crossbody bag tutorial
Happy sewing!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Related Posts

How To Organize and Manage Your Fabric Stash // Sewing Tips and Hacks

For those who sew—or are just beginning—you’ll quickly accumulate a fabric stash.

Before long, your collection may grow to the point where it feels overwhelming.

But how do you know if you have too much fabric?

In this post, I’ll share practical tips for decluttering, organizing, and keeping your fabric stash in check.

love fabric stash

The Love of Fabric

My love for fabric is something I inherited from my grandmothers, both talented seamstresses.

fabric storeAs a child, I’d watch them sew quilts, clothing, and home décor, and I loved joining them on trips to the fabric store.

Having a fabric stash is useful—you can whip up a curtain, a baby gift, or mend clothing on short notice. But over time, it’s easy to accumulate unused fabric, taking up valuable space.

Signs You Have Too Much Fabric

Just like our bodies show symptoms when something’s off, there are red flags that signal your fabric stash may be out of control:

  • Overwhelmed when choosing a fabric: Searching for the perfect piece leaves you stressed or anxious.
  • Forgotten fabrics: You discover pieces you didn’t even realize you had.
  • Limited space: Your fabric stash spreads into other closets, bins, or rooms.

If you’re experiencing any of these symptoms, it’s time to declutter and reorganize.

fabric

How Does Your Fabric Stash Get Out of Hand?

We’ve all been there. You walk into a fabric store intending to buy one item but leave with more than you planned—especially if there’s a sale!

Or maybe you buy extra yardage just in case, and before you know it, you’ve accumulated more fabric than you’ll ever use.

Let me share with you a scenario of flannel that I just experienced.

We have a new grandchild in our world and I have been waiting for the day I can make things for this baby.

I was thrilled to finally be able to make some flannel blankets, some receiving blankets, and bibs.

fabric bright colorsI have been saving bright-colored fabrics, bright flannels, and, you know, things that I like.

But the trend now is more neutral colors, and I wanted to make a blanket for her in the colors she liked: neutral, soft colors.

I didn’t have any fabric in those colors. So, of course, saving all that flannel wasn’t helpful in this situation.

So, I bought more fabric and had fun making some things with soft, neutral colors. 

Maybe it’s time to use some of that flannel, make some blankets, and donate them to the hospital or shelters to use the fabric.

It shows that things change and trends change, so you don’t want to be too excessive.

fabric stash bins

Steps to Declutter and Organize Your Fabric

1- Take Inventory
Begin by assessing what you have. No need to count every yard—just ask yourself:

  • Do I love this fabric?
  • Will I realistically use it?

2- Declutter in Small Increments

Don’t try to tackle your entire stash in one day. Start small—one bin, one shelf, or one drawer at a time.

Stop before you get overwhelmed.

fabric bins 23- Organize by Category

Group your fabric by type, color, or project size. Use bins, drawers, or shelves to store them.

For smaller scraps, consider a jar or container to keep them tidy.

fabric scrap jarI love my repurposed glass cookie jar. It is “eye candy” and allows me to see what I have available.

I use these small pieces for my scrappy fabric projects.

Practical Tips for Managing Your Stash

  • One In, One Out: Donate or use one piece from your stash for every new fabric you buy.
  • Set Limits: Decide how much storage space you’ll dedicate to fabric, and stick to it.

For example, limit yourself to one bin per type of fabric (e.g., fleece, flannel).

  • Embrace the Mindset of Abundance: Let go of the “what if I need this someday?” mentality.

Trust that if you genuinely need a specific fabric in the future, you’ll be able to find it.

  • Don’t Get Overwhelmed When Decluttering: Don’t overwhelm yourself by digging into the whole project in one day.
overwhelmed fabric

Take a small amount of time each day, week, or month, and when you’ve hit your limit, STOP!

If you don’t, you may end up with a big mess and not want to get back at it.

  • Don’t Limit Yourself Too Much: I’ve told my followers several times that if you see a fabric or a piece of upcycled clothing that is in good shape and something you love, I’ve suggested that you get it.

You don’t have to buy the whole bolt, but get a little of it because you know what? You may not ever see it again, and you may regret it. (It’s called balance).

donate

What to Do With Unused Fabric

If you’re holding onto fabric you no longer need, consider:

  • Donating: Many organizations, shelters, and hospitals welcome fabric donations for community projects.
  • Creating for Charity: Use extra fabric to make mittens, hats, blankets, or scarves to donate.
    (I have several patterns to make mittens, hats, blankets, and many baby items). You can find them in my pattern shop.
fabric stash bins

Storage Solutions for Fabric

Your storage system will depend on your space and needs. Here are a few ideas:

  • Mini Bolts: Use these comic boards to make little mini bolts for about 1/2- 1 yard of fabric. (I show how to do it here).
  • Bins or Drawers: Clear bins or labeled drawers help you see what you have at a glance.fabric tubs
  • Large Tubs or Bins: Store more considerable yardage or specialty fabrics like upholstery in larger bins.fabric scraps
  • Scrap Containers: Limit yourself to one jar or box for small scraps to prevent clutter. I use zip bags to store larger pieces of scraps.
    GET MY FABRIC STORAGE TIPS HERE.

Organizing your fabric stash doesn’t just free up space—it frees your mind.

With a tidy stash, sewing becomes more enjoyable and less stressful.

So, take it one step at a time. Evaluate what you have, let go of what you don’t need, and create an organized system that works for you.

If you have questions or tips of your own, share them in the comments below. I’d love to hear from you!

Happy sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

The Best Way To Thread Sewing Needles | 7 Simple Tips

thread sewing needles

Threading sewing needles—whether for hand sewing or a machine—can be frustrating, but it doesn’t have to be!


You’re not alone if you’ve ever struggled to pass the thread through that tiny hole.

In this post I share seven practical tips that will help you thread sewing needles with ease, saving you time and making your projects more enjoyable.

threading sewing needles

1. Start with a Fresh Cut

One of the easiest ways to make threading a needle easier is to start with a clean cut on your thread.

Over time, thread tends to fray and become fuzzy at the ends, making it more difficult to pass through the needle’s eye.

Simply snip the end of the thread before threading, and it will go through the needle much more easily.

threading sewing needles

2. Needle Threaders

Needle threaders are a classic tool, and they make threading much easier. You’ve probably seen these little gadgets with a thin wire loop.

threading sewing needlesWire Threaders: Simply pass the wire through the eye of the needle, thread your thread through the wire loop, and pull it back through the needle.

threading sewing needlesHook Needle Threaders: You can also find hook-style threaders, which work similarly but have a little hook that grabs the thread and pulls it through.

threading sewing needles

3. Fold the Thread Over the Needle

Another simple trick for hand-sewing is to fold the thread over the needle, creating a loop.

Hold the folded thread tightly and guide the tight loop through the eye of the needle.

This method helps keep the thread together, making it easier to thread the needle in one go.

4. Use a Drop of Water

This tip might sound strange, but it works!

Instead of licking the thread (as many of us are used to doing), try dipping the eye of the needle into a drop of water.

The water helps draw the thread into the needle, making it easier to pass through the eye.

5. Quick-Threading Needles

For both hand and machine sewing, quick-threading needles can be a game-changer.

These needles have a small notch that allows you to slide the thread in without needing to pass it directly through the eye.

theading sewing needlesThey are available for hand sewing and your sewing machine.

7. Sewing Machine Automatic Threaders

Most sewing machines nowadays come with either a manual or automatic threader.

A tip for having these threaders work properly is to make sure your needle is in the most upright position before starting.

This will allow the threader to work properly.

You can adjust the needle’s position by turning the hand wheel on your sewing machine towards you until the needle reaches the highest point.

If your needle isn’t fully in the upright position, the threader hook will not be able to go through the needle hole properly.

I love my sewing machine’s automatic threaders.

Bonus Tips For Threading Sewing Needles

Beware of Gadget Failures:

Not all gadgets deliver as promised.

threading sewing needlesA thread-pushing gadget I tried once broke on its second use and was more frustrating than helpful.

If you’ve had success with similar tools, share your tips in the comments!

Lighting is Key:

One thing I didn’t mention earlier but is very important is to make sure you have good lighting while you’re sewing.

Good lighting is key when you are threading sewing needles.

Use a task lamp, natural light, or any bright light source to illuminate your workspace.

Proper lighting helps you see the needle and thread clearly, making the process easier.

threading sewing needles

Sewing Machine Needle Insertion Tool:

Have you ever noticed a little tool that came with your machine that looks like this, and wondered what on earth it was for?

Sometimes it’s attached to a little brush or is just a standalone device with a small hole at one end.

If you don’t have one or can’t find yours, you can get one here.

threading sewing needles

Here’s how to use it: find the back of your needle (it is the side that is flat) then insert the needle so the flat side is facing to the back into the hole of the tool until it’s snug.

This gadget makes it much easier to place your needle in your machine and ensures it’s properly aligned.

Stick the needle up until it stops, tighten your needle bolt, and pull the tool away—your needle should be perfectly in place!

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Sewing Challenges Faced by Seniors / 10 Simple and Practical Solutions

sewing challenges

Certain physical and cognitive changes may make some of our beloved hobbies a bit more difficult as we age.

However, just because sewing might present new difficulties doesn’t mean it’s time to set aside those needles and threads!

Here’s a look at some of the most common sewing challenges older adults face, and some tips on overcoming them.

With the right tools, techniques, and adjustments, older adults can continue to enjoy the satisfaction of crafting beautiful handmade items.

In this post, I share with you my top ten sewing tips.

sewing challenges squinting

1. Vision Difficulties

One of the most common issues older adults face is diminished eyesight, making threading needles or reading small print on patterns tricky.

I hate to admit it, but I fit in this category and these tips have been quite helpful.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Use magnifying glasses or LARGE EYE NEEDLES for easier threading.I like these simple plastic NEEDLE THREADERS.
  • You can get QUICK THREADING NEEDLES for your sewing machine and self-threading needles for hand-sewing.
  • Invest in a sewing machine with automatic needle threading. (Most sewing machines nowadays, even the most basic machines will have some kind of needle threader).
  • Opt for large print patterns or patterns with clear visual instructions.

Check out this detailed video tutorial where I go over several ideas and tips for THE BEST WAYS TO THREAD SEWING NEEDLES.

sewing challenges arthritis

2. Hand Dexterity Issues

Conditions like arthritis can make it difficult to grip tools, handle fabrics, or operate a sewing machine.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Use ergonomic tools, such as scissors with larger handlessewing challenges seam ripper
  • EASY GRIP SEAM RIPPERS
  • Opt for lightweight fabrics to reduce strain on your hands.
  • Consider using a sewing machine with large buttons.
  • and foot pedal controls to reduce hand fatigue.

3. Fatigue and Muscle Weakness

Extended sewing sessions can become tiring, especially when working with heavier fabrics or large projects.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Take frequent breaks to rest your hands, eyes, and body.
  • Work in shorter sessions and on smaller projects if needed.
  • Use lightweight fabrics like cotton, which are easier to handle and manipulate.
sewing challenges cutting

4. Trouble Cutting Fabric

Cutting fabric precisely can be difficult for those with weak hands or arthritis.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

sewing challenges cutting

  • Use electric scissors or rotary cutters with ergonomic handles to make cutting easier and more accurate.
  • Try working on smaller projects like “quilt as you go” to avoid having to manage a large quilt.
  • Consider sending your quilts to a long-arm quilting service for finishing.

5. Difficulty with Fine Motor Skills

Older adults may struggle with fine motor tasks, such as pinning fabric or sewing small buttons.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Use fabric clips instead of pins to hold the fabric together.

I’ve been using these fabric clips for years and love how they work.

  • Replace small buttons with larger buttons or consider using Velcro closures for ease of fastening.
sewing challenges neck pain

6. Back and Neck Pain

Sitting for long periods can result in discomfort, particularly in the back and neck.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Ensure your chair and table are at the right height for good posture.
  • Consider using a chair with lumbar support and taking stretch breaks regularly.
  • You can also set up a standing sewing station if you find sitting uncomfortable for extended periods.
    Take more frequent standing brakes. (every 15 minutes). I like to set a time so I don’t forger.

7. Coordination Problems with Foot Pedals

Operating foot pedals can be tricky for those with leg weakness or reduced coordination.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Use a sewing machine with push-button controls instead of relying on a foot pedal.sewing challenges machine
  • Consider a machine with adjustable speed settings for more control.sewing challenges foot pedal
  • Place your foot pedal on a piece of rubber shelf liner to help keep it from sliding on hard floors.
    Glue a piece of the pokey side of velcro to your foot pedal to keep it from sliding away on carpeted surfaces.
sewing challenges light

8. Lighting Issues

Dim or poor lighting can increase eye strain and make it harder to see fine details while sewing.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Use bright task lighting directly over your sewing area.
  • Consider an LED lamp with a built-in magnifier for projects that require extra precision.
  • Use a sewing light strip that you adhere to your machine.

.

9. Fabric Handling

With reduced hand strength, managing fabric tension and handling tricky materials like silk or chiffon can be more challenging.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Work with stable, easy-to-sew fabrics such as cotton or linen.
  • Use fabric stabilizers for slippery fabrics to help maintain control.
  • Use quilting gloves while sewing quilts by hand or by machine.

10. Frustration with Modern Technology

Newer sewing machines often come with digital interfaces, which can feel overwhelming for those used to mechanical machines.

Sewing Challenges Solutions:

  • Stick to simple machines with fewer digital features, or ones that offer easy-to-understand controls. I am drawn to and enjoy sewing on my simple mechanical machines over the fancy electronic ones.
  • Take a class or watch tutorials to become more comfortable with modern sewing technology.

For more details and tips on buying a sewing machine, check out this post.

Sewing remains a wonderful, fulfilling activity at any age, and it’s entirely possible to keep stitching as you grow older with just a few adjustments.


By using ergonomic tools, choosing the right fabrics, and relying on technology that fits your needs, sewing can continue to bring joy, creativity, and satisfaction for years to come.


Do you or someone you know face any of these sewing dilemmas?
Do you have any tips that you’ve found to be helpful?
Please share your thoughts and tips in the comments below!

 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

8 Sewing Tips and Hacks for Beginners / My Best Top 8

8 best sewing tips

If you are new to sewing or have been sewing for a long time, there are always some new sewing tips and hacks that could make your sewing experience easier and more enjoyable.


In this post, I share with you my top eight sewing tips.

8 best sewing tips hand weight

1. Preventing Ruler Slippage

This tip is a game-changer if you use a rotary cutter, mat, and ruler. When making long cuts, your ruler may slide, even if you press down firmly.

The solution? A simple five-pound hand weight. That’s it.

What do you do with it? Place the weight on the end of the ruler to keep it in place. This prevents any slipping or sliding and ensures straight cuts every time.

I keep my weight on my sewing table whenever I’m getting ready to cut.

sewing tips

2. Starting and Ending Seams on Knit and Lightweight Fabrics

Starting a seam on knit or lightweight fabrics without the fabric getting sucked into the machine can be challenging. 

You get bunched up fabric, and sometimes it will even make a hole in your fabric. OUCH!

I have the perfect little gadget that will cost you nothing and save you so much grief.

It’s just a piece of scrap fabric about 2 x 2 inches. When you start a seam, sew onto the scrap first and then put the end of the fabric against it.

sewing tipsThis keeps the presser foot level and allows the feed dogs to move the fabric through without getting it sucked down into the machine. (I’m sure you’ve experienced it). It is so frustrating.

It will also ensure a smooth start and finish to your seams.

sewing  tips scraps ***I keep many scrap pieces close to my machine in a little pouch on my sewing supply holder.

You can use the same scrap piece over and over again.

sewing tips bulky seams

3. Sewing Over Bulky Seams


When sewing over bulky seams, such as denim or fleece, skipped stitches and uneven stitches can be a problem.

To prevent this, all you need to do is keep the presser foot level by placing something under the back of the foot.

You can use a “hump jumper,” a folded piece of cereal box, or even an emery board.

Alternatively, some machines have a leveling button on the presser foot to help maintain an even stitch.

When you come to the bulky seam, slide the device under the back of the presser foot and start sewing. This will allow the feed dogs to pull the fabric evenly without skipping stitches.

Then, when you continue to sew and go off the bulky seam, the device will simply fall away or the button will pop back out, disengaging it.

4. Using Painter’s Tape or Masking Tape

I know this may seem like a strange thing to have in your sewing kit, but painter’s tape or masking tape can be incredibly useful in sewing projects. It’s one of my favorite sewing tips!

To mark the seam allowance on your sewing machin

  • As a guide to sew straight lines instead of using chalks or pens.
  • Seam Allowances and Straight Lines
  • Use it to mark your seam allowances on your sewing machine
  • As a temporary hold for fabric pieces 
sewing tips topstitching

5. Top Stitching without Thread Bunching

Top stitching adds a professional touch to your projects, but threads can bunch up and knot at the start and look really messy.

sewing tips starting seamTo avoid this, adjust your stitch length from 2.5 to 3 and gently pull back the threads from the needle and bobbin when you begin stitching. Take a few stitches and let them go.

This prevents bunching and ensures a clean finish start.

sewing tips sewing foot pedal

6. Keeping Your Sewing Pedal in Place

If your sewing pedal keeps sliding away while you work, place a piece of rubbery shelf liner under it.

sewing tips shelf linerThis will keep the pedal in place and prevent it from moving around.

Here’s a sewing tip for those of you with a carpet surface: You can apply a few pieces of sticky back Velcro to the pedal (the prickly hook piece) to keep it from slipping around.

sewing tips threading machine

7. Troubleshooting Funky Stitches


If your machine starts acting up and the stitches start looking a little wonky, the simplest solution is often to re-thread your sewing machine. It’s as simple as that.

Ensure you’re threading the machine correctly according to the instructions in your sewing machine manual, and check your bobbin.

This quick fix can solve many common stitching problems.

***If you still are having issues, check out my tutorial on

Troubleshooting 3 Common Sewing Machine Problems | Sew Simple Series Lesson #7

 

 

sewing tips serger thread

8. Managing Serger Tails

For those of you who use a serger, here is a tip to avoid leaving those obnoxious tails when starting or ending a seam with a serger.

Start sewing about half an inch. Stop and lift the presser foot. Pull the tail to the front and under the presser foot so that when you continue to sew, the tail will be reinforced by sewing over it and then cut off.

sewing tips sergerAt the end of a seam, sew to the end of the fabric, maybe one stitch off the fabric, then lift the presser foot, pull the fabric back slightly, flip it over, and align the edge with the needle before continuing to sew. Sew a few inches, then veer quickly off.

Cut your threads. This technique results in a neat finish without loose tails.

Feel free to share your experiences, ask questions, or comment below.

I would love to hear some of your sewing tips.

 

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Sew Over Bulky Seams the Easy Way / Best Sewing Tips

sewing over bulky seams

Do you find it challenging to sew over bulky seams?  Your machine’s struggling, you’re getting skipped  stitches and it is just downright frustrating. Well, not anymore.

In this blog post, I’m going to show you some great tips where you can  sew over a bulky seams and still get a beautiful, professional-looking stitch.

bu;ly seams

 Whenever you are sewing with denim, canvas, fleece, or sewing with a bunch of layers, going over the bulky seams can be a little tricky. There are some things you can do and use to make this a lot easier.

bulky seams and skipped stitches

What causes you to have skipped stitches?

Let’s go over what causes you to get skipped stitches.

The presser foot on your machine is meant to pivot up and down.

When the presser foot goes over the bulky seams,  the front of the pressure foot will angle up, and then the feed dogs aren’t able to push the fabric through.

sewing over bulky seams

The results, long skipped stitches, which not only look bad, but the seam will not be secure in that area.

If you make the presser foot level somehow, then it will feed the fabric through and you’re good to go.

All that you need to do is get that presser foot level by putting something underneath the back of the presser foot while you’re sewing.

There are several little gadgets that you can use to make the presser foot level and make sewing over bulky seams a snap.

Bulky Seams Gadget #1 Hump Jumper

When you buy a sewing machine, most likely it will come with this little device called a “hump jumper”.

If you don’t have one, you can easily buy one here, or make your own.

SEWING OVER BULKY SEAMS hump jumper

How to use a hump jumper on bulky seams

Let me explain how to use it. Sew up to the seam and when the presser foot starts to tilt up, stop sewing, leave the needle in the down position, lift up the presser foot and slide the hump jumper under the foot as shown above.

Then continue to sew over the bulky seams and the hump jumper will just fall off.

hump jumper bulky seams
tip

The little hole on the hump jumper is used to help steady the needle when you are putting a new needle in the machine.

Just place the needle in the hole (make sure it is facing the correct way) and shove the top of the needle in place.

In the video tutorial, I demonstrate all of these methods, so be sure to watch it at the end of the post.

LEVELING BUTTON BULKY SEAMS

Bulky Seams Gadget #2 Leveling Foot

Some machines come with a presser foot that has a little black button on the side.

My machine has one and it is a Babylock Verve. (J foot)

BULKY SEAMS LEVELING BUTTON

How to use a LEVELING FOOT

Here is how to use that foot. Sew up to the seam and when the presser foot starts to tilt up, stop sewing, leave the needle in the down position, lift up the presser foot and push the little black button on the side of the foot.

When you bring the foot down, it will lock in place.

 


Continue to sew and when you go off the bulky seam, the button will pop back out. That’s it.

diy hump jumper bulky seams

Bulky Seams Gadget #3 DIY Hump Jumper

If you don’t have either of these items, you can simply make your own.

All you need is a cracker or cereal box (As some of you know, I love to recycle.

  • Cut a piece of the box about 6 x 3 inches.
  • Fold the long part over about 2 inches and repeat folding until you have a folded bundle.
  • Unfold it to the height of your fabric and simply slide it under the back of the presser foot against the edge of the bulky seam.

 

paper hump jumper bulky seams

This will lift and level the presser foot so you can continue to sew. Once over the seam it will just fall out.

Bulky Seam Gadget #4 Emery Board

You can get creative here and use a lot of items to prop up that presser foot.

One thing I found that works well and doesn’t cost you anything, if you have one on hand, is a simple EMERY BOARD.

Who would have thought?

I love using these little gadgets when I’m hemming a pair of jeans.

There you have it. I hope you find these tips helpful and that you’ll get out your sewing machines and make something fun!

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Apply Wonder Under // Clear and Simple Tips & Tricks

wonder under

Wonder Under is a great little product that comes in handy for many sewing and crafting projects.

In this post, I’m going to show you some simple tips & tricks on how to use this fusible webbing that you might find helpful. I’ll show you the basic application, which is super easy.

wonder under fusible paper

What is Wonder Under?

You may not have even heard about Wonder under or fusible webbing. It’s basically a thin webbed piece of glue that has a paper backing. It’s used to adhere one piece of material, like fabric, to another material.

You can wash whatever you put it on and it will stay on there. There are a couple of different brands and types of fusible webbing. I really like this Pellon brand. It also comes in a brand called Heat n Bond that works well too.

You can get it in a lightweight and ultra hold that works for something that you’re maybe going to be washing all the time. It comes in the store by the yard or in packages, and can also be found online.

Projects To Use Wonder Under ON

You can even use this Wonder Under on wood and paper.

Wonder Under Application Materials & Items Needed

How To Apply Wonder Under

Decide what shape, fabric design, or letter you want to use as a cutout iron-on.

****NOTE: Whatever you are cutting out will be “MIRROR IMAGED” when ironing it on. For example, the letter “J” needs to be cut out backward, whereas a symmetrical shape like a heart would not.

1- Cut out a piece of fabric a little bigger than the shape you will be cutting out.

Place the fabric RIGHT SIDE FACING DOWN. Then cut out a piece of Wonder Under the same size. 

Set the fusible sheet aside for now.

2 – Tracing the design

Trace the design onto a regular sheet of paper. If you have a lightbox use that. However, if you don’t, no worries, just go to a window and tape the paper to the window and place the Wonder Under paper over the top and trace away.

Once you have your letter traced, put the Wonder Under paper over the reversed letter and trace it.

3 – Wonder Under application

wonder under ironSet your iron on the high setting and make sure the steam is off. You’ll use a dry iron.

DIY Ironing Board CoverI love using this table ironing board for small projects like this.

Take the webbing sheet and place it down on top of the fabric. Then place the backward “J” paper on top of the webbing. The traced paper needs to be bigger than the webbing!

If the webbing is sticking out at all, and you press it, you’ll have a BIG MESS on your iron and you don’t want that. Then the next thing you press will have goobers on it. (See my hack for getting that muck off your iron).

wonder under cutting outWhen all the layers are in place, simply press it for about 10 to 15 seconds you don’t want to overdo it because you’ll burn the glue. Let it cool and then cut around your shape.

4 – Peel off the paper backing

The next thing you’re going to do is peel off the paper backing.

wonder under janni tip

This can be a REAL CHALLENGE sometimes because it’s hard to separate the paper from the fabric. BUT NO WORRIES. I have a simple hack that is a LIFE SAVE! (For those of you who have struggled with this, you’re going to love this)!

Take a simple pin and make a little X in the middle of your shape somewhere. Score the paper and the paper will pop out a bit and it will give you something to grab and pull, which is a heck of a lot easier.

The back side of the fabric will have a little rubbery plastic texture now.

If the webbing is sticking out at all, and you press it, you’ll have a BIG MESS on your iron and you don’t want that. Then the next thing you press will have goobers on it. (See my hack for getting that muck off your iron).

wonder under letter j

5 – Applying the shape

Take your letter or shape and place it right side facing up and press in place.

wonder under applique

Applique Stitching

If you have an item that is going to be washed a lot, you may want to do some satin stitching (applique) which is basically a very short-length zigzag stitch around that item. This will help it so it doesn’t come off.

wonder under sewing applique

Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch, the width at 4 and the length at 0.5 to 0.7.

I recommend testing the stitch on a scrap piece so you can see if you like the stitch. You want to have the outside of the zigzag stitch be right on the outer edge of the applique.

Take the hand wheel of your sewing machine and turn it towards you to bring the needle down so you can see where the stitching is going to be.

Sew around the shape, taking your time around corners and curves. You may need to stop and lift up the presser foot to adjust around corners.

That’s it. Now you have an applique that is secure and won’t fall off after washing.

I hope you found this helpful.

Here are a few projects I’ve used Wonder Under.

PJ PANTS VIDEO TUTORIAL & PDF PATTERN

DIY GIFT BAGS

Have fun crafting with WONDER UNDER!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Apply and Use Kam Snaps the Easy Way

kam snaps

When you have a sewing or craft project that requires a snap, these Kam snaps are the best! They are durable, easy to apply and come in so many fun colors. In this tutorial, I show you how easy they are to apply and some ways that you can use them.

kam snaps kit

Snap application can be a little intimidating for some, but there really is nothing to it, especially when you use this Kam snaps kit. Over the years I’ve used different snaps and different application methods, and this is by far my favorite so far.

You do need the little pliers, but the kit is very reasonably priced and the kit I recommend comes with some snaps as well.

How to Use Kam Snaps

Here are a few ideas and ways to use these snaps.

  • Baby bibs
  • Hats
  • Homemade cloth diapers
  • Shirts
  • Homemade wallets
  • Jackets
  • Baby pajamas
  • and really anywhere else where you need two pieces of fabric to connect

I find the Kam snap application is a lot easier than sewing around Velcro. I will admit, however, there are times when Velcro is more appropriate for certain applications.

Kam Snap Parts & Tools Needed

Kam snaps come with three different pieces: a thumbtack-looking piece, and a male & female piece.

For each snap you’ll need:

  • 2 cap pieces
  • 1 male piece
  • 1 female
  • Kam snap pliers & awl

How to Apply Kam Snaps

1- Locate the spot where you need to apply a snap.

Take the sharp awl that the kit comes with and poke it through both layers of fabric. Wiggle the awl around a bit to make the hole more distinct.

2- Take one of the THUMBTACK pieces and poke it through the fabric from the RIGHT SIDE to the WRONG SIDE.

3- Place MALE PIECE on top of the thumbtack with the HAT-LOOKING side facing away from the fabric.

4- Hold these items together and place them inside the pliers with the back of the THUMBTACK piece set into the little black holder on the pliers.

Make sure it is in place before squeezing the pliers. (If you listen, most times you can hear a little click when the tack is in place).

5- To apply the other snap, take a THUMBTACK piece and insert it into the other hole from the BACKSIDE of the fabric to the front.

6- Take the FEMALE PIECE and place it on top of the fabric and proceed as you did before using the pliers.

That’s it. So simple and so quick.

kam snaps

I hope this was helpful and that you’ll feel comfortable and inspired to give snaps a whirl in some of your next projects.

CHECK OUT MY SEWING PATTERNS HERE

Have fun creating!

Here are some project tutorials you may be interested in:

DIY Baby Bib Tutorial | Reversible

DIY Fleece Earflap Hat | Simple Sewing Tutorial

 

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Sewing With Fleece the Easy Way | My Top 10 Tips

sewing with fleece

Sewing with fleece can be a lot of fun and there are so many things you can make with it, however, there are a few things that you might want to know that will make your sewing experience with fleece a little easier.

In this blog post, I’m going to go over my top 10 tips for sewing and working with this stretchy, and cozy fabric.

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #1- How to tell the right side of the fabric

The first tip that we’re going to go over is how to tell the difference between the right and the wrong side of the fabric. Sometimes this is pretty obvious. For example, when you look at printed fleece, the underside may be less vibrant but still can be kind of hard to tell.

With solid-color fleece pieces, it can be really tricky. When you’re sewing up a project and trying to put the right sides together, you’ll want to know which is the “right” side.

sewing with fleece selvage edge

Let me show you a SIMPLE HACK. Find the SELVAGE EDGE OF THE FABRIC. This is the edge of the fabric that has the manufactured finished edge. It looks like the photo above.

sewing with fleece stretchIf you take the non-selvage, the stretchy edge, and pull it, it will curl to the WRONG SIDE.

sewing with fleece non fray

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #2- Fleece fabric does not fray

The second tip and what I love about sewing with fleece is that the fabric does not fray. That means that you don’t have to finish the seam edges on your projects and it’s quite nice.

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #3- Use the correct needle and thread

When you sew on fleece fabric, you want to make sure that you’re using the correct needle and the correct size. You can get away with using a universal needle and honestly that’s what I use most, but you can also use a jersey needle or other ballpoint-type needles. This will keep the needle from putting holes in your fabric.

If you want more tips on needle sizes and needle types, you can download my FREE PRINTABLE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE GUIDE, which shows you all the needle characteristics and how to use them.

Get the printable here.

I do recommend using a POLYESTER THREAD.

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #4- Nap

Fleece fabric does have a nap to it. The nap means the direction that the fluff or fibers of the fabric all go the same way. Corduroy fabric is a good example and is a little more obvious, but fleece also has this.

If I were to cut out a bunch of pieces and not worry about the nap, and they were going in different directions, your finished project is going to look funky and weird and it might even look like it’s a different color.

I’m going to show you on this piece of fleece and these pieces for a slipper pattern. Notice how the front of the sole piece and the front of the top slipper piece are facing the same direction on the fabric. You don’t want to flip the pattern so that the top goes in the opposite direction.

You may be tempted to save fabric, especially on pieces like this, to flip that pattern over and have it face a different direction, to save fabric. DON’T DO IT! If I have to cut out multiples of the same piece, you can flip horizontally, but not vertically. (I hope that makes sense).

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #5- Sewing machine settings

Stitch Settings: Using the correct sewing machine settings and stitching settings when you’re sewing with fleece fabric will make a big difference.

If you’re sewing an item that’s not going to get stretched, you can get away with using just a regular straight stitch, but you’ll want to adjust the stitch to be a little longer, say 3.5 to 4.

However, if you’re sewing a project that will be stretched at all, you will want to sew using a LIGHTNING BOLT STITCH or if your machine doesn’t have that lightning bolt stitch, just use a REGULAR ZIGZAG STITCH. Adjust the width to 1.5 so it’s a very narrow zigzag stitch. Set the length to be 1.5 or even shorter.

I do recommend testing out your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before you start sewing your projects. Make sure that you’re using that zigzag or lightning bolt stitch on anything that’s going to stretch on your project because if you don’t when it is stretched the seam will pop and break, and you don’t want a hole in your seam.

sewing tips serger

If you have a serger, by all means, use it on your fleece projects. It makes the job so much faster and gives you some stretch to your seams and gives you a nice finished edge.

Another thing that you can do and I do recommend, is lowering the presser foot tension if your machine has that adjustment option.

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #6- Use long pins

Use long pins and use lots of them, especially when you’re sewing around curves or over lots of layers of fabric. If you use little short pins they sometimes can get lost in the fluff of the fleece fabric.

For blankets or items made for children, you don’t want those little pins to get hidden in the fluff.

I really like these long flower pins.

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #7- Sewing over bulky seams

When you’re working with fleece and several layers of fabric, it can get kind of bulky and things are going to shift. Here are a few tips for making this a little easier. (Watch the video for examples).

sewing with fleece hump jumperHave you ever seen this little Gadget? Most likely it came with your sewing machine. I have to be honest, it wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I even knew what this was strange item was.

It really is the coolest little device and it’s called a HUMP JUMPER. It levels off the presser foot when you sew over thick seams. It makes it so you don’t get those skipped stitches, and allows your sewing machine to ease over those bulky seams. They work really well when hemming jeans!

sewing with fleece diy hump jumperIf you don’t have one in your sewing kit, no worries. You can make one by folding a cereal box 3-4 times to make a rectangle as shown in the photo.

sewing with fleece bulky seamSlide it under the back of the presser foot just like you would the hump jumper. (Watch video tutorial for a demonstration).

sewing with fleece finger press

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #8- No pressing

Fleece does not need to be pressed. If you need to open up a seam or something, just finger press it.

sewing with fleece cleaning

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #9- Clean your machine

When you sew with fleece, you are going to have a lot of lint. Even when you’re cutting things out and especially inside your machines.

It’s important that you keep your machines clean. Take the brush that comes with your sewing supplies (or you can use a small paint brush) and brush out around the serger blade, the bobbin case and anywhere else you see lint.

Sewing machine repairman don’t advise blowing it with canned air or air compressors, which can lodge the lint even deeper into your machine.

It is a good idea to have your machine serviced and cleaned once in a while because lint does build up especially using fleece and upcycled sweaters.

sewing with fleece binding

SEWING WITH FLEECE: Tip #10- Use fleece for binding

I wanted to show you some ideas and tips on how to use fleece strips as binding. This binding can be used on so many projects.

Some examples are shown in the photo above with the BOWLING SLIPPERS, and PILOT & PIXIE CAPS.

sewing with fleece fleece bindingThis binding is so cozy, it stretches really nice, and it has a clean finished look. I SHOW THE TECHNIQUE IN THIS TUTORIAL.

Here are some fun projects you can make with fleece. 

Pixie & Pilot Caps

PIXY AND PILOT CAP

diy fleece neck warmer

Headband/Neck Warmer/Fingerless Mittens

Fleece Animal Beanies

 

I hope this information was helpful and makes your sewing with fleece a little easier.

I do have a new fleece pattern coming out soon, so make sure you are subscribed to my newsletter, so that you can be notified when new goodies and information are come out.

sewing with fleeceGet in your sewing room, get out your fleece and make something fun.

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

My Top 10 Sewing Tips for Beginners | Know Before You Sew

sewing tips

If you’re new to sewing or if you want to learn some awesome sewing tips, you’re in the right place. In this post, I’m going to share with you my top 10 sewing tips. Even if you don’t plan on being a professional seamstress, knowing how to sew is a GOOD THING!

These tips are not listed in any order of importance, so make sure you check out the whole thing! You can also watch the video tutorial at the end of the post.

I’ve been sewing for a long time (since junior high school) and have used these sewing skills a ton throughout my life. Not only did these sewing skills come in handy to help put me through college working in sewing factories, but I was also able to make a little money while working from home when my kiddos were little.

I used to sew dance and drill team uniforms while they were at school, and now I am able to share my passions teaching others to sew.

top 10 sewing tips

Over the years I’ve learned a few things and am excited to share with you my top 10 sewing tips. Of course, I have several other tips, (and I hope you’ve been able to catch them in my video tutorials and blog posts over time).

For this particular post, I’m going to focus on the ones I find most important. So without any further ado, let’s get into those sewing tips.

sewing tips machine

Sewing Tips #1 – You Don’t Need A Fancy Sewing Machine

You don’t need to buy a fancy and expensive sewing machine, especially if you are new to sewing. I went a LONG time without needing a sewing machine that had all the bells and whistles.

Let me tell you, there are some expensive sewing machines out there and all you need is a good solid machine with the basic stitches. I recommend looking into buying a USED MACHINE.

Check your local online local classified ads and the Facebook marketplace. Sewing machine repair shops will often have used machines that have been refurbished for sale.

sewing tips sergerAs you continue to sew, you can always upgrade to a different machine and even buy an overlock/serger machine, (which I do recommend you get if you can).

I’ve had many many different types and brands of machines over the years, and I have my favorites. I’ll go over some sewing tips in the near future on how to pick out the right machine for your specific needs.

Sewing TipS #2 – Become Familiar with Your Machine

Your sewing machine will come with a manual, READ IT! If you buy a used machine and it didn’t come with a manual, you can get online and find a copy of the model and make of your machine. You can also get on YouTube and find some great tutorials showing you specific things regarding your machine.

The owner’s manuals will show the parts, how to care for and how to use all the functions of the machine. It’s amazing the things I have learned when I have taken the time to actually read through this information.

I know, that when you get a machine, you are eager just to dive in and start sewing. Take the time to become familiar with it and you’ll save time in the long run.

presser feet youmakeitsimple.com

Another sewing tip I want to mention about your machine is that it will come with several different presser feet. I encourage you to get familiar with them and learn how to use them. 

I have a post and video tutorial showing you what the basic feet are and how to use them. 

Sewing Tips #3 – Get the Basic Sewing Supplies

When starting to sew, it’s nice to have all the BASIC sewing supplies. This isn’t going to cost you a lot of money and it will save you from being caught off-guard without an item that would really make the task a lot easier.

I have a video tutorial where I share with you a buyer’s guide and my loved recommendations.

YOU CAN WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Here are some of those items I go over.

Sewing Tips #4 – Learn To Use A Rotary Cutter & Mat

Of course, this is optional, but I find this little tool saves a lot of time AND gives you really good results, especially when cutting straight lines. A rotary cutter doesn’t cost a lot of money and there are so many options out there.

I have a blog post and video tutorial giving you all the details on how to use them, what kind of mats and cutters are best, how to care for them, and some valuable safety tips. You can read the post and watch the video tutorial HERE.

Sewing Tips #5 – Take Care of Your Sewing Machine

Your sewing machine needs to be taken care of just like any other machine. It needs to be cleaned, covered, and occasionally tuned up. Even the best-made sewing machines will need to have a good service once in a while.

I recommend taking your machine into a sewing machine repair shop occasionally to have it serviced, especially if you’re having issues with your stitch! I do have a tutorial showing Common Sewing Machine Problems and how to troubleshoot the issue.

sewing tips threading

Most of the time, you can fix the issue with some of these simple things (Like re-threading your machine).

The sewing machine mechanic can give it a good cleaning. (You’d be amazed at how much lint and gunk can get into crevices that you can’t get to). It’s worth the money and will keep your machine running smoothly and make it last longer!

Your handbook will give instructions on how to maintain and clean your machine. With newer machines, they usually don’t recommend oiling anymore. Just check your manual.

sewing tips SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Sewing Tips #6 – Use The Correct Type of Needle

Most of the time you can get away with using a universal sewing machine needle if you’re sewing on cotton, cotton blends, or some kinds of synthetic fabric. Using the wrong type of needle can put holes in your material and give you a poor stitch.

For example: if you use a regular needle on a KNIT FABRIC, you will put holes in the fabric. If you use a thin needle on denim, you’ll most likely break the needle.

sewing with fleece needle guide

I have a blog post giving all these details AND I offer a free printable PDF that you can download that has a chart showing needle types, size, and what to use them on. YOU CAN GET IT HERE.

Another sewing machine needle tip I have is to use a needle sorter. If you’re like me, I put a needle in my machine and then I FORGET what type and size needle is in there.

There’s no way my eyes can read that tiny print on the needle telling what size it is. That is where this nifty little PIN CUSHION comes in handy. You can learn more about it here, and get the PDF iron-on printable to make your own.

Sewing Tips #7 – Keep Fabric Scraps Handy For Testing

I like to keep small scraps of fabric handy by my sewing machine for testing out new stitches and colors of thread. This allows me to test out the stitch length, width, and color of the thread.

You can also test buttonholes, and decorative stitches before sewing on your final project. It’s much better to make mistakes on a scrap of fabric than on valuable fabric that you’ve cut out and prepared for your project.

Sewing Tips #8 – Use Upcycled/Recycled Clothing As Fabric

If you’ve been following me, most likely you know that I LOVE upcycling. Re-purposing an item of clothing to make something else brings me so much joy, and I like the idea of recycling.

Not only do you save money, but you can also create some really cute, unique, and fun items that you don’t see everywhere. Most of my patterns and tutorials have options to use upcycled clothing.

Here is a post and video tutorial where I give several tips and ideas for thrifting and upcycling.

sewing tips upcycling t shirtsOh, the fun things you can make with an upcycle T-Shirt. Check out some of the ideas here.

Sewing Tips #9 – Be O.K. With Making Mistakes

Even the best seamstress will make mistakes. No matter how long you’ve been sewing, you’re going to make mistakes and have to unpick, and that’s o.k!

Once you understand and accept this, it won’t be quite as frustrating when you have to take out a few stitches or even start over again.

Sewing Tips #10 – Take Your Time & Have Fun!

When you are working on a project, I recommend setting up your sewing station, even if that is your kitchen table, and don’t rush.

I went many, many years without a sewing/craft room and I created a lot of items right there on my dining room table. You are going to make a mess, that’s what creative people do, and you can clean everything up when you’re finished.

If you sew in a rushed state, most likely you’re going to be stressed and more prone to making mistakes. Set some YOU TIME aside, and slow down and enjoy the process!

Check out my SEWING ROOM MAKEOVER HERE.

SEWING TIPS JAN

I hope you found these tips helpful! Please reach out if you ever have any concerns or questions and I will try to help out.

You can find my video tutorial on my YouTube channel.

My PDF sewing patterns can be found here on my site.

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Sew on a Button | Simple Hand Sewing Method

button

Everyone needs to learn how to sew on a button.

Most likely, sometime in your lifetime, you will have a button pop off a shirt or some clothing, and sewing it back on is super easy.

In this post, which includes a VIDEO, TUTORIAL, I will show you how easy it is to use a hand sewing method.

Items & Materials Needed

  • Sewing needle
  • Thread
  • Scissors
  • Toothpick
  • Button

In this post, which includes a VIDEO, TUTORIAL, I will show you how easy it is to use a hand sewing method.

button

DID YOU KNOW?

Most button-up shirts include a spare button. (Yep, kinda like a spare tire).

Look on the side seam of the shirt and there may be a single button sewn to the tag of the shirt.

Pretty cool because it can be a little challenging to find a button that looks exactly like the ones on your shirt, even if you do have a big jar of buttons as I do.

All you have to do is clip off the button and sew it on where the other one came off.

Let me show you how easy it is to do.

In case the shirt you need to replace a button does NOT have an extra button and you don’t have a jar of buttons, here is a link where you can get standard shirt buttons with the basic colors. 

button knotting thread

How to Sew On A Button

  1. Double thread the needle and knot the end. (The video tutorial will show a slick tip on how to easily knot the end of the thread).
  2. Locate the spot where the button needs to be applied.

 

button 3 methods

TWO HOLE BUTTON

  1. Insert the needle from the back of the fabric up into one of the holes in the button.
  2. Stick the needle back into the other hole and pull it out on the underside. DON’T PULL IT ALL THE WAY YET. Take the TOOTHPICK and place it between the two holes, with the thread over the toothpick. Continue to pull the thread tight over the toothpick.
  3. Reinsert the needle back up into the first hole and repeat the process THREE TIMES.
  4. Insert the needle back up into the fabric, BUT NOT THROUGH THE BUTTON this time. The needle should be between the fabric and the button.
  5. Wrap the thread around the strands of thread 3 times to create a shank. Take a small stitch at the base of the shank and knot. Insert the needle back into the fabric close to the stitches and out the back. Knot the thread one more time and clip the thread.
  6. That’s it! Pretty quick and simple, right?

FOUR HOLE BUTTON

You can stitch a four-hole button a few ways. You can make a crisscross or sew two parallel stitches.

Using the crisscross method, instead of sewing into the hole next to the one you just came up from, apply the needle to the hole at a diagonal.

Insert the toothpick in the same manner and make 3 passes on each diagonal. 

Create the thread shank just like you do on the two-hole method, and knot in the same manner.

SHANK BUTTON

Double-thread a needle and know the end.

Locate the place where the button will be applied and insert the needle into the back of the fabric just underneath where the button will go.

shank buttonThread the needle through the button shank and back down into the fabric close to the shank.

 

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Gathering Fabric With a Serger/Overlock Machine the Easy Way

gathering fabric serger

When it comes to gathering fabric, if you have a serger or overlock machine, you’re in luck because I’m going to show you how to do it the EASY WAY. All you really need to do is adjust a few settings and you’re good to go.

There are a few ways to create gathers or ruffles with your serger/overlock machine. I’m going to show you two ways and give you some tips to make the process real simple.

Gathering Fabric Method #1

The first thing you’ll need to do is adjust a few of the settings on your machine. Note: you can use either 3 or 4 threads

DIFFERENTIAL FEED: 2

STITCH WIDTH: 5.5

STITCH LENGTH: 4

I recommend cutting some strips of scrap fabric to practice sewing on. Different weights and textures of fabric will gather a little differently.

gathering fabric reg foot

This first method does not require a special presser foot. Just leave your regular presser foot on.

  1. Place the fabric under the presser foot with the fabric edge along the edge of your presser foot. You’ll be cutting off just a little bit of the fabric as you sew.
  2. Start sewing. Hold the fabric loosely and allow it to slide under the presser freely. Guide the edge of the fabric along the edge to keep it aligned and straight.

With the machine at these settings, the fabric will generally gather up to ½ the length that you started with. If you want the gathering to be tighter, simply find the needle thread (which is the thread between the looper threads), and using a seam ripper, gently pull on it to gather more.

What I love about using a serger for gathering fabric is that it not only gathers the fabric, but it finishes the edge so it won’t fray.

gathering fabric foot

Gathering Fabric Method #2

This method requires a GATHERING FOOT. Some machines will come with this foot, and other models don’t. You can purchase one separately. If you do have to purchase one, it is well worth the money.

This is what the gathering foot looks like. Depending on the model of your serger, they may look a little different, but most of them will have this little spring plate on the bottom. Remove the basic presser foot and apply the gathering foot.

gathering fabricYou can create gathers by simply running a strip of fabric under the presser foot as you did with the other foot.

The cool thing about this gathering foot is that you can gather AND attach the gather to a non-gathered piece of fabric. For example: if you want to add a ruffle to a pillowcase, skirt waistband, apron, etc., it makes this task a SNAP!

Gathering Fabric and Attaching

To practice, cut a strip of fabric say 20 inches in length. Cut another piece of fabric 10 inches.gathering fabric

  1. Place the long strip (ruffle fabric) under the presser foot and take 1-2 stitches only. Grab your short strip and slide it into that little slot on the presser foot until the edge is lined up with the ruffle strip.gathering fabric hand position
  2. Take a few stitches only so the needles grab both pieces of fabric. Adjust your hands so the left hand is holding the top piece of fabric and the right hand is holding the ruffle fabric.
  3. Continue to sew letting the fabric slide easily and feed into the foot freely. While you sew, keep the two edges of the fabric lined up with each other and in alignment with the edge of the presser foot. (It takes a little practice, but you’ll get the feel for it quickly).
gathering fabric and attaching

Tadah! Open up the two pieces of fabric and look how cool that is! Such a faster and more efficient way to go about gathering fabric.

So, if you have a serger/overlock machine, adjust a few settings and have fun making ruffles!

What if you don’t have a serger?

No worries. Stay tuned because I will be showing you how to easily create ruffles and gathers on a regular sewing machine.

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Pick the Best Elastic for Your Sewing Projects

ELASTIC VARIETY

There are a lot of types of sewing elastic out there and knowing how to pick the best elastic for your sewing projects will affect the quality and final results of whatever you are making.

In this post I’m going to go over:

  • different types
  • what each one looks like
  • how to use each one

There are three basic types:

Here are four specialty elastics

All are used in different applications and serve a specific purpose.

They come in all kinds of widths, from 1/4 inch to 3 inches and up. Your pattern will typically specify which width to use, but in general, thinner ones are used for things like swimwear and necklines, while wider ones are used for waistbands for skirts and pants.

TYPES OF ELASTIC GUIDE

Here is a table showing the different types  and when you can use them.

Print this out and display it in your sewing room for a quick reference. 

DOWNLOAD AND PRINT THE PDF

chart
BRAIDED ELASTIC

BRAIDED 

Elastic Description

  • Parallel ribs
  • Narrows when stretched
  • Looses stretch if sewn into
  • Rolls more easily

Uses

Sleeve and Neckline Casings

 

KNIT

Description

  • Cross woven
  • Soft to the touch
  • Does not narrow when stretched

Uses

Waistbands (pajama bottoms, men’s briefs, skirts)

Lightweight-medium fabrics

WOVEN ELASTIC

WOVEN (Non-Roll)

Description

  • Horizontal & vertical ribs
  • Firm
  • Does not narrow when stretched
  • More durable

***Tip: use a stronger needle when sewing into it

Uses

Waistbands of pants and skirts with heavy fabrics, houseware items, outerwear

LINGERIE

Description

  • Decorate loops on the side
  • Soft to the touch

Uses

Underwear, bras

SWIM 

Description

  • Does not rot or perish
  • Heat resistant
  • Chlorine resistant

Uses

Swimwear, leotards

FOLD OVER 

Description

  • folds in half
  • soft against the skin

Uses

Leotard, underwear, headbands, hair ties, DIY watch bands

CLEAR

Description

  • Thin and clear

Uses

Gathering knit fabric, shoulder seam stabilizer

Extra Tips 

 

Picking the Right Type

  • First, consider if you will be sewing through the elastic or placing it in a casing. Remember, the braided and woven elastic doesn’t do as well being sewn through.
  • Knit or braided types are better for lighter fabrics, while woven is better for heavyweight fabrics.
  • Use specialty elastics like lingerie, fold-over elastic, and clear elastic for your projects that have special requirements.

Picking the Best Size Elastic

  • Pick the size based on the size of the casing or insertion area and the location on the garment the elastic will be.
  • Neckline elastic needs to be much thinner than waistband elastic, for instance! Your pattern will most likely recommend the width needed.
  • Don’t cut it lengthwise. You’re much better off just getting one that is the right width.

Cutting the Length

  • Test stretch your elastic to check how much it stretches and if it recovers well.
  • You may need a shorter length of braided elastic to accomplish the same stretch as a knitted elastic.
  • Thinner elastics stretch more than wider ones, so take this into account when cutting your length.
  • Use a safety pin to join elastic and test before cutting.

I hope you foun this helpful.

Please send me a note if you have any questions while choosing the elastic for your projects.

Have fun sewing!

jan3

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

A Beginners Guide to Rotary Cutting / Helpful Tips and Tricks

rotary cutting

When it comes to sewing and crafting, rotary cutting makes the task on hand so much easier and quicker. Here are some helpful tips and tricks you might want to know.

In this post I am going to go over:

  • Different types and sizes of rotary blades
  • Rotary blades
  • Changing the blade
  • Cutting mats
  • Rulers
  • Cutting curves
  • Cutting on knit fabrics
  • How to square off fabric pieces with the ruler and rotary cutter
  • Safety tips and useful accessories

Benefits of Using a Rotary Cutting Device

  • Get a clean straight cut
  • Quick cutting
  • Easily cuts multiple layers of fabric
  • Makes cutting shear and delicate fabric much easier
  • Cuts precise fabric for quilting cuts
rotary cutting cutters

Rotary Cutters

There are many different types and brands of rotary cutters out there. I’ve acquired and tried several different types of cutters over the years. Some have been great and some, not so much. Alternative cutting edges include blades for pinking or scalloping, which are interchangeable and less expensive than buying a special pair of shears.

Rotary cutters come in several different sizes. The most common sizes are 28mm, 45mm, and 60mm.

  • 28mm: cutting strips, squaring fabric, cutting curves and intricate pieces
  • 45mm: straight cutting, strip cutting, squaring blocks, can cut through multiple layers at once(up to 8 layers at once), cuts a variety of fabric types including thicker/heavyweight fabrics
  • 60mm: straight cutting, strip cutting, can cut through multiple layers at once(up to 12 layers at once), cuts thicker/heavyweight fabrics with ease

The 45mm cutter is the one I use most frequently and would recommend for your first rotary cutter.

Rotary Cutting Safety

Before I go any further, I want to emphasize how important it is to be cautious when using a rotary cutter. These blades are VERY, VERY SHARP!

You’ll want to make sure your fingers are out of the way of the blade.

Always cut away from your body. You may be tempted, when in a hurry to cut toward you, instead of flipping the fabric, but DON’T DO IT!

Apply the blade cover when not using the cutter. (I will admit, and my viewers catch it), that I don’t always follow this rule. It has come back to bite/cut me, a few times.

I really, really like this rotary cutter because it has an automatic retractable blade. When you cut, you’ll squeeze the handle and when you’re finished cutting and release it, the blade retracts. Its ergonomic handle is very comfortable to use and is one of my favorites!

 

How Do You Know When to Change the Blade?

Rotary cutting blades need to be changed occasionally. It just depends on how much you use it. You can tell if after cutting it leaves uncut sections or just doesn’t cut well. Don’t hesitate in changing it for a new one, because a new blade will make your cutting experience so much better, and safer.

How to Change the Rotary Cutting Blade

Each rotary cutting device will be a little different, but they’re all pretty similar. If you have an Olfa cutter, you can go on their website and find the different types of cutters and see how to change the blade. BE VERY CAUTIOUS when handling the blade.rotary cutting changing blade order

  1. Disassemble the cutter by first unscrewing the nut. ****Very important! As you remove each component, set them down in the order you remove them.
  2. Remove the metal washer and the plastic washer next.
  3. Pull the handle off the stem that holds the blade and set it aside. (I will go over what to do with the old blade in a bit).
  4. Carefully remove the old blade from the stem and replace it with a new blade.rotary cutting blade change
  5. Place the handle back onto the stem followed by the metal washer with the curve FACING UP like a cup.
  6. Next, place the nut back onto the stem and tighten until the front disk begins to spin. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
rotary cutting used blades

What to Do With the Used Rotary Cutting Blades?

As I have mentioned a few times, these blades are super sharp and you don’t want to just throw these babies in the trash. I recommend writing on the blade with a sharpie pen “USED” and placing it back into the case it came in. This way when you fill the case with used blades, you can just throw the case away.

The used blades come in handy when you want to make cuts on paper, cardboard, or other material that you wouldn’t want to use a nice new blade on.

Another tip: Write the date on the new blade, so you can have a reference for how long the blade has been on there.

Rotary Cutting Mats

Let’s go over the mats now. Using a rotary cutter requires a special mat underneath the fabric to protect your table and a special blade. (Don’t try using a rotary cutter without a cutting mat)!

Just like the cutters and rulers, there are A LOT of different kinds, brands and colors of mats out there. There are plastic mats, self-healing mats, and PVC mats. The most popular and known mats are the self-healing mats.

What is a Self-Healing Mat?

Self-healing cutting mats work by ‘absorbing’ the cut from a blade. The mat is made from many tiny particles that are pressed to create a solid surface: one that is not rigid like glass or hard plastic so that the ‘cut’ of the blade can be absorbed amongst those particles.

When you run a blade over and over in the same place on a self-healing mat, you’ll see that the damage becomes more pronounced as the cut makes more of an impact each time. Little fibers get stuck down in the cuts and eventually, you’ll have to replace the mat.

I have found a new kind of mat that I love! It’s called the BIG ROTARY CUTTING MAT. It’s made of PVC and is NOT self-healing.

rotary cutting mats

What is the Advantage of a PVC Mat?

  • Although it isn’t self-healing, it is quite durable and comes in all kinds of sizes up to 40” x 72”.
  • This mat is not supposed to warp and comes with a 5-year guarantee.
  • The company is a family business and is based in the USA. I like supporting local businesses.
  • Your rotary cutting blades will stay sharp longer.
  • You don’t have to put as much pressure on the blade.
  • It’s reversible and can be flipped to an all-white mat.

I have several sizes of these mats, but I LOVE my 36” x 60” mat. It fits really nicely on my sewing table where I sit my sewing machines.  When you cut on this mat, it will make little raised surfaces, but no worries. They send a little plastic scraper that you simply scrape over the surface to smooth it out, good as new.

Rotary Cutting Rulers

If you want to make straight cuts, which I’m sure you’ll want to do, you’ll need a ruler. This ruler needs to be made of durable plastic and there are a lot of different styles, widths, and colors out there.

They range in different widths and lengths. I would recommend getting a basic size to start with. I like this one. It’s 6.5 inches x 24 inches. 

rotary cutting ruler

Rotary Cutting Tips

Rotary cutters are great to square off a piece of fabric if you’re making a quilt or something that needs a square edge. (Watch the video tutorial where I demo exactly how to do this).

There is nothing more frustrating than to make a straight cut and have the ends not cut through all the way. TO AVOID THIS ISSUE, start cutting before the edge of the fabric and cut a few inches off the end of the fabric.

You can buy little accessories that make cutting a little easier. This BIG Mat Company has several different items.

I really like the ruler stabilizer. It is a little plastic rectangle that you can apply to the end of your ruler to act like a T-square or you can apply it anywhere on the mat as a straight edge. It’s really quite helpful.

***When cutting a straight strip, press firmly on the ruler and KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE WAY!

I hope this was helpful and that you have fun cutting and creating.

Let me know in the comments below if you have any great rotary cutting tips to share with us.

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

4 Basic Sewing Machine Seams and Seam Allowance Tips

seams and seam allowances

In this tutorial I am going to go over the basic sewing machine seams and give you some seam allowance tips.

What are seams?

Seams are the building blocks of a clothing item and are the points of connection between fabric pieces. As a beginner seamstress, the first thing you will learn how to do is sew a basic seam. (Sew two pieces of fabric together).

There are several different types of sewing stitches that you can use to make up seams. Be sure to check out my SEW SIMPLE SERIES, A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SEWING, where I show you all the basic stitches, seams and guide you through several easy sewing projects. (PATTERNS INCLUDED).

seam allowance

What is a seam allowance?

Whenever you sew seams, you’ll have some kind of seam allowance. This is the distance from the seamline to the raw edge of the fabric, which allows the fabric pieces to be durably connected without fraying or coming unsewn.

 

Here are some basic seam allowance “facts” and “rules”

  • The width of the seam allowance depends on the type of fabric and the seam finishing technique used. A thicker, bulkier fabric requires a larger seam allowance while thinner, lightweight fabrics work well with a narrower seam allowance.
  • The most commonly used seam allowance measures 3/8” to ½”.
  • Some seam allowances are finished to ensure seam durability and prevent the raw fabric edges from fraying. Fabrics like knit or polyester do not need to be finished. Here are some simple techniques to finish seams (NO SERGER NEEDED).
  • After the seam is stitched, the seam allowance should always be ironed down in a specified direction in order for the seam to lay flat (you’ll see a demonstration of this in the sewing tutorial video below).
    All conventional sewing machines have a seam allowance guide to the right of the sewing machine needle. In order to sew each seam at the proper seam allowance, the raw edge of the fabric is aligned with the appropriate seam allowance guideline according to the required seam allowance length. In my tutorials, I usually give some great tips on things you can do and use to make following these guides easier.
  • Most patterns will give you the SEAM ALLOWANCE requirements and measurement for that specific project. If it doesn’t, use the standard 3/8 inch seam allowance. (This by the way is just the edge of your normal presser foot).

BASIC 3/8 INCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Place the two pieces of fabric you are working with together, matching edges and pin in place. Use the 3/8 inch guide on the top plate of your machine to line up the edges of the fabric, or if your presser foot edge is at that measurement, you can just use the edge of the presser foot as your guide.pressing seams
  2. Sew the seam. Open up the seam allowance and press flat using an iron.

FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

A flat felled seam is basically an overlapping seam that’s sewn flat. When the seam is complete, there are no raw edges showing. It’s used frequently in menswear because it’s extremely durable and sturdy and provides a neat finish. If you’re wearing jeans, take a look at the seams. They are almost certainly flat-felled. Use a flat felled seam on shirts or trousers, which see a lot of stress, and you’ll get a durable finish.

Here’s how to go about sewing a flat felled seam.

  1. Pin fabric with right sides together. You will be using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. tape seam allowance guideI like to place a piece of masking or painter’s tape onto the sewing plate at the 5/8 inch mark. This will help you see more clearly and help you guide the fabric along as you sew.pressing seam allowance
  2. Instead of pressing the seam open, you’re going to fold the seam allowance to one side and press.flat felled seam stitching
  3. Flip the fabric over to the right side. Now sew a straight line on the side that the seam allowance is pressed to.1/8 inch seam allowance
  4. Sew 1/8 inch from the seam line fold. TIP: Most presser feet will have little notches indicating 1/8 inch marks. This is nice to use this feature when sewing this seam. Simple line the fabric up with that right 1/8 inch guide and sew away.

FINISHED FLAT FELLED SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

trimming seam allowance

  1. Sew the seam with a ½ seam allowance. Before pressing the seam, take your scissors and trim away ¼ inch from the right seam allowance.pressing seam allowance
  2. Fold the uncut seam allowance over the cut seam allowance and press in place.
  3. Now fold the top seam allowance under ¼ inch encasing the cut allowance. Press in place.
  4. Topstitch in place along the folded edge to secure in place.

FRENCH SEAMS INSTRUCTIONS

French seams are perfect to use on lightweight, sheer fabrics, or lace. I like using this seam when I make pillowcases. The seam encasing all of the fraying fabric edges inside a tiny seam allowance of 1/4″ (5mm). French seams can be great to use if you haven’t got an overlocker (serger) and want to create a perfect finish to your project.

  1. When sewing a French seam, you start by placing WRONG SIDES OF THE FABRIC TOGETHER, instead of right sides together.French seam 1/4 inch seam
  2. Sew the first seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Then, fold the fabric along the seam line, so the right sides of the fabric are together and the stitching is at the edge of the fold. Press well, so you are working with a sharp crease at the fold on the seam. You may want to pin the fabric edge, especially if you are using a slippery fabric.3/8 inch seam allowance
  3. Now sew another seam using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

     

  4. Press the finished seam to one side or the other.

Play Video

There you have it, 4 basic seams for you to use.

HINT: my SEW SIMPLE COURSE COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS AND MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL SIZES OF PILLOWCASES.

OTHER BLOG POSTS YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN:

7 Sewing Machine Presser Feet and How To Use Them

Unpicking Serger Stitches the EASY WAY

SEWING BY HAND | Most Important Stitches to Know

Have fun sewing my friends!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Sewing With Plush Fabric | Tips & Tricks

Sewing With Plush Fabric

Items made with plush fabric are the coziest things ever; however, sewing with plush fabric can be a little tricky. In this post I am going to give you some great tips & tricks that will make the sewing process a lot easier and save you a lot of grief!

What Is Plush Fabric?

The fabrics that are considered “plush” are:

  • Faux Fur                 
  • Fleece
  • Minky (also known as “Cuddle” fabric
  • Velvet
  • Chenille
  • Velveteen

These fabrics usually have a “nap” to them. If you run your hand up and down the fabric, they’ll be smoother in one direction and may even look a shade different in color.

plush fabric blanket

What do you do with plush fabric?

These cozy fabrics make really nice toys, blankets, pillows and jackets. It’s not just for babies! We, adults, deserve to have something COZY! 

The fabric is available in solids, prints, embossed and double-sided. Embossed Cuddle is a favorite. You get softness plus a subtle design that pops up from the nap, such as the classic dimple as well as hearts, stars, paisley, and more. Next time you’re at the fabric store, check and see what they have available.

You can buy the fabric by the yard, or you can upcycle a throw blanket or item of clothing (like I like to do). The bunny in the photo below was made from an upcycled fleece jacket.

PLUSCH FABRIC BUNNY

Sewing With Plush Fabric Tips & Tricks

  • Things are going to get messy! Plush fabric sheds when cut; use a rotary cutter to minimize fuzz. After cutting, place pieces in a dryer with a damp washcloth on low heat for about 10 minutes. Keep a lint roller, masking tape, and vacuum handy.

plush fabric stretch

  • This fabric has some stretch to it. It stretches on the crosswise grain but very little along the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvages). If you are sewing two pieces of fabric together, it’s important to line up stretch with stretch and the grain with the grain, or you’ll get twisting and uneven seams.

plush fabric pinning

  • Use a lot of pins! This fabric will do a lot of shifting from the time you pin until the time you actually sew, so place a lot of pins to hold things in place. I love these long, floral tip pins. It makes them easy to see, so you don’t accidentally leave pins in your projects. 
  • Attach a walking foot, if you have one. If you are going to be sewing on these types of fabrics, it’s well worth the investment. Most sewing machines have one available if it doesn’t come with one. It makes a huge difference when sewing on the fleece, Minky, upcycled sweaters, etc. *If you don’t have one, be sure to hold the bottom layer of fabric a little more firmly when sewing. What happens is, the bottom fabric gets fed through the machine more quickly and you’ll get uneven sewing.
  • If you’re sewing a different type of fabric together with the plush, place the plush fabric on the bottom when sewing.
  • Use a ballpoint needle, 90/14 (Ge my NEEDLE GUIDE HERE).
  • Set your stitch length to a longer-than-normal stitch (3-4) to keep seams from puckering.
  • Do not use an iron. The fabric can melt!
  • Use a slightly bigger seam allowance. I like to use a ½ inch seam allowance when sewing on plush.
  • Using a rotary cutter will give you a cleaner cut edge.
  • If sewing together with a different type of fabric, especially cotton, be sure to wash the cotton piece first! Plush fabric will not shrink, but the cotton will.

Sewing with plush fabric is really not that bad once you get the hang of it. I wished I would have known this stuff before I attempted my first plush fabric project.

I have a video tutorial showing you how to make a plush self-binding blanket, and I go over these tips in it. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE.

You may also find the fleece binding tutorial helpful.

Check out my sewing patterns HERE.

I hope this was helpful and that you’re now ready and excited to make a fun baby blanket or teddy bear.

How To Assemble and Organize PDF Sewing Patterns

PDF sewing pattern assembly youmakeitsimple.com

In this post, I will give you some tips on assembling and organizing your PDF sewing patterns. Using digital PDF sewing patterns can:

  • Save you money
  • They are easy to access and archive
  • Open up a lot of online sewing pattern choices

In a previous post, I showed how to download and print your PDF patterns. Now I will go over how to put them together and store them.

Play Video

I used to have a drawer full of miscellaneous patterns that were pinned together, and it was a mess.

Then I tried storing them in small white envelopes and a pretty white box with a lid, but that didn’t work so well for me.

Because the envelopes were small, the bundles were bulky, and it took a lot of time to make the cover look nice. I’m going to show you how I organize my patterns.

Let’s go over how to assemble your PDF sewing pattern

If you’re lucky, the pattern will have a diagram guide somewhere in the pattern on how to put the pages together.

Some instructions are more complex than others, depending on how many pages are included to form one pattern piece.

After you have printed out the pattern, there are a few things to look for before assembling the pattern.

Materials & items needed

  • Any special cutting instructions
  • Seam allowance
  • Size indicator/chart
  • Special tools or equipment needed
  • Fabric and thread recommendations
  • Presser feet or sewing machine attachments are needed

Suggested Items Needed To Assemble and Organize PDF Patterns

Before doing anything, make sure the pattern has been printed the correct size.

Most patterns will have a test square to measure to see if the pattern has printed true to size. VERY IMPORTANT!

Using the diagram from the instructions, line up the sheets of paper in the correct order.

On my patterns, I use a blue box to indicate the connecting points on the sheets of paper. To reduce bulk, cut off one side and the bottom of the sheet (on the blue line).

I like using an Exacto knife, but you can use scissors.

Attach the sheets together by using clear tape or masking tape.

Ensure things are lined up correctly, then cut out your desired size.

The beautiful thing about digital patterns is that if you are going to make the same item but need a different size, you can just print the pattern section again and cut out the needed size.

Storing & Organizing PDF Sewing Patterns

There are many ways to organize your patterns. Find the system that works best for your situation and sewing space and is to your liking.

This is the way that I find works best for me.

 

I use simple manilla envelopes that measure 9 x 12 inches and have a clasp. You can get it at a reasonable price HERE.

Instead of printing a separate sheet for the cover, I glue the front sheet of the pattern to the envelope.

It will have the title of the pattern and usually a photo. It’s pretty simple.

I then store them in cardboard magazine organizers. You could buy the more sturdy plastic organizers if you wanted to get fancy.

 

If you have a ton of patterns, you can sort them in different containers with the categories written on the boxes. (i.e.: BABY, TODDLER, HOUSEHOLD PATTERNS, WOMEN, etc.).

I hope that was helpful and inspires you to take advantage of the goodness of digital PDF sewing patterns and gives you a few ideas on how to get them organized.

GET MY PDF SEWING PATTERNS HERE

Happy sewing and organizing!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

How To Download and Print PDF Sewing Patterns | Step by Step Tutorial

PDF sewing patterns youmakeitsimple.com

Being able to purchase a PDF sewing pattern online is a good thing. In this post, I am going to show you step-by-step tips for downloading and printing PDF sewing patterns.

Where to find PDF sewing patterns?

There are several places to find printable patterns online. Some common places are Etsy and on private sewing websites.

You can find my sewing patterns HERE.

Where can I find my purchased PDF sewing patterns?

Email:

Most places will send you an email with a link to a download page, or they may direct you straight to a download page for an instant download. 

Can’t find your email?

I get this a lot from customers who say they can’t find the email or don’t know where to find the pattern. 98% of the time, the file is in their spam folder.

So check there first. Another issue could be that the email you have on that account has changed, or you’re looking in the wrong email account.

spam folder PDF sewing patterns

CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER!

Etsy: Etsy digital shop purchases can always be located by going to your Etsy account.

Click on your account

Choose “purchases and reviews.”

There you will find all your purchases.

Click the digital purchase to go to the download page, where you can click DOWNLOAD. It will download the PDF to your computer.

Private Seller:

If you purchase the pattern from a private seller, you may need to register on their site or create an account.

Once you do that, you’ll have access to the files forever once you log in. All sellers handle their PDF files differently, but this is most likely the process.

How many times can I download the pattern?

This depends on the seller. Some have unlimited downloads, while others limit you to a set number of downloads. (I find this to be rare.

PDF sewing patterns

How to save PDF Sewing Patterns

Once you download the pattern, you’ll want to save it somewhere that you can easily find it. Here are a few suggestions.

What you’ll need to download and print the PDF Sewing Pattern

  • Some kind of PDF viewer. I recommend Adobe Acrobat and you can get the FREE download here.
  • Printer
  • Paper
  • Desktop computer or laptop

 

Printing the PDF Sewing Pattern

Just a few things to note:

  • Before printing, check whether there are any special printing instructions. Some patterns will come with a separate PDF with printing instructions.
  • All printers are different and will have different printer queues.  
  • Most patterns will have you print at 100% or at ACTUAL SIZE. Make sure the “fit to page” or “page scaling” is turned off and not clicked.
  • Check the paper size. (Most likely the pattern will print out on a letter or A4 size.
  • TEST SQUARE. Most patterns will include a test square that you will measure to make sure the pattern is printing the correct size. Locate the test square and print that page only! (This will save a lot of paper in case it is not printing correctly.
  • Measure the square to make sure it measures what it is supposed to, then print the rest of the pattern pages.

That’s it!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

7 Sewing Machine Presser Feet and How To Use Them

presser feet youmakeitsimple.com

Have you ever gone through the sewing machine attachments that come with your sewing machine and wondered, “What the heck is this used for?”

I certainly have! In this post, I am going to walk you through the 7 most basic sewing machine presser feet and how to use them.

Whatever type of sewing machine you have, it will come with some basic presser feet attachments.

Some of them may look very intimidating and seem complicated to use. NO WORRIES.

By the end of this tutorial, you are going to be all ready and hopefully, excited to tackle any sewing project.

What are presser feet?

Presser feet are small attachments that are added to the machine to help feed the fabric through the machine while you sew.

There are many types of presser feet and each does something different to make the sewing task easier.

hump jumper tip

Make sure to use presser feet that are compatible with the model of the sewing machine! Some feet are universal and can be used and several models of sewing machines, but others are not.

When you purchase a new foot, it will tell what models it can be used on.

 

7 Basic Presser Feet

Standard Presser Foot

This foot is most likely the foot you’ll be using for most of your sewing projects. It’s used for standard and decorative stitches.

  • Straight stitch
  • Satin stitch
  • Zigzag stitch
  • Overcasting
  • Other fancy stitches
  • Zipper Foot

Most machines include a zipper foot. There are several types of zipper feet and different ways to attach them. Depending on the setup of your machine, will determine how you attach it.

It’s pretty obvious what the zipper foot is used for, but how does it work?

Most commonly a zipper foot has gaps on either side of the foot. Depending on which side of the zipper you are sewing you position the zipper tape under the relevant side of the zipper foot. You stitch along one side of the zip then repeat for the other side.

The gaps in the foot allow you to sew close to the zipper teeth on either side of your zipper. If your sewing machine is capable, you can also adjust the needle position to more precisely place your stitching.

You can also use the zipper foot to attach trimmings and that have a tape, just like you do with a zipper. A zipper foot can also be used to apply piping. (There is a piping foot, which makes the task even easier

Overcasting/Overedge Foot

This foot is wonderful if you need to finish the raw edges of fabric but don’t have a serger or overlock machine. 

There is a little bar in the center of the foot that works to wrap the thread around the edge of the fabric for a neat finish and to prevent fraying.

There are usually a couple of options for overcasting stitches on most machines.

ou may need to play around with the length and width of the stitch to get the result you are looking for.

I always recommend practicing on a piece of scrap fabric first.

You can watch the video tutorial where I will show you in more detail how to do the overcast stitch on your sewing machine.

The overcasting stitch can be used even if you have a serger. It comes in handy for quick, small, and hard to reach places.

Blind Hem Foot

This foot is a nice option if you want to hem a pair of pants, curtains, skirt, or other items that you don’t want to be able to see the seam and you don’t want to sew it by hand.

The foot has a gap down the center and the right side of the foot is wider than the left side.

The left side is also slightly raised compared to the right side because once the fabric is folded correctly there will be three layers of fabric to fit under the left side of the foot (two layers of the garment fabric itself plus the hem allowance), but only one layer on the right side

You can watch the detailed blind hem video here

As I mentioned before, take a piece of scrap fabric and test it out there before sewing on your project.

It takes a little tweaking to get the stitch how you want it.

Select the blind hem stitch on your machine and position the foot with the right side of the foot snugly against the fold in the fabric.

The right side of the foot will act as a guide as you sew making it easy to sew accurately and ensure the stitches are falling correctly.

As you sew the stitches will be straight and then it will jog over to just catch the main garment fabric as it joins it to the hem allowance.

You may need to play with the needle position to get your stitches in the correct place.

You will see a minimal amount of stitching from the right side, especially if you are using thread that is the same color as your fabric.

Buttonhole Foot

This foot can look intimidating, as at least it did for me until I used it. 

There are different types of buttonhole feet and some are fancier than others. I’m going to show and demonstrate how to use a one-step buttonhole foot.

Most machines will come with at least a sliding or adjustable foot, which is similar to the one-step.

The one-step buttonhole attachment looks similar to the sliding and adjustable buttonhole feet, but it also has an area at the back of the foot where you can insert your button.

You slide the foot until the button is fitting snugly in the gap then engage a lever or similar on your machine (instructions for this feature will be in your manual).

This allows the machine to measure the button and stitch out the correct-sized buttonhole in one simple step. I LOVE IT!

Practice on a scrap piece of fabric first. It’s actually quite fun making buttonholes!

Button Foot

You can always just sew a button on by hand but if you’re not a fan of hand sewing this foot could be a very welcome addition to your sewing kit! This foot allows you to sew a 2 or 4 hole button, and in different sizes, depending on the size of the button you are using.

Some machines will have a special setting for applying a button. But if it doesn’t NO WORRIES!

Simply set the stitch width according to the gap between the holes on the button and set the stitch length to “0”. The machine does all the work. If your machine does not have the special button setting, when you complete the stitching, move the needle position to the left or right and set the width to “0” and take several stitches in the same hole to knot the thread. Or you can just manually knot the two threads on the underside.

Viola!

Applique Foot

An appliqué foot is shorter in length than most presser feet and has a wider area for sewing all kinds of decorative stitches. The foot is shorted in length which makes maneuvering curves and angles easier.

The front of the foot sits on the fabric to maintain the required pressure; however, the back of the foot is raised to allow stitches and fabric to feed through easily.

Simply attach the foot to your machine, select an appliqué stitch of your choice, and sew around your chosen design quickly and easily. One of my favorite stitches to use is the blanket stitch.

There you have it. I hope this was helpful and allows you to feel more confident and familiar with those foreign-looking attachments that come with your sewing machine.

hump jumper tip

It’s always a good idea to read through the manual that comes with your sewing machine. There may be some good tips in there to help make your sewing experience a lot easier.

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

Unpicking Serger Stitches the EASY WAY

Sewing on a serger/overlock machine is wonderful, but when it comes to unpicking serger stitches, you may be overwhelmed and dreading the whole process. 

I used to feel this way until I learned this slick and easy way to unpick, and I’m going to show you how it’s done. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been sewing or how good you are at it; there ARE going to be times that you’ll need to UNPICK! However, once you learn this technique, it won’t matter because it is so easy to do.

A serger stitch will either use three or four threads to form the stitch: two looper threads and one or two needle threads. In the photo above, I have used a different thread color for each stitch to show you what it looks like. (four-thread stitch).

Before I learned this trick, I would grab my unpicker and try to unpick each stitch. There were little cut threads everywhere, and it took FOREVER! It was so frustrating!

I seriously can’t believe I went so long sewing on a serger without knowing this little trick. It makes the process quick, and you don’t have to collect and dispose of all the cut threads.

UNPICKING SERGER STITCHES-HOW TO

The only stitches you are going to pull out are the needle threads. The photo above shows a four-needle thread stitch. The RED thread is the left needle stitch, the TAN thread is the right needle stitch, and the blue thread is a looper thread.

1. Take the unpicker, and with the point, grab the red thread, pull it, and cut it. Go down the seam another 1-2 inches and cut the needle thread again. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GRAB THE LOOPER THREADS, this will cause the seam to lock up and the threads will not pull out as easy.

Get ahold of one of the tails of the thread you just cut and ease and pull it out of the fabric. (Sometimes you can do the whole seam in one go). Continue this process until you’ve removed that left needle thread completely.

2. If you are using a four-thread, you’ll need to remove the right needle thread as well.

Finding the right needle thread can be tricky if you use the same thread color as the fabric. (A trick to finding the stitch is to take your unpicker tip and glide it down the little v shape that the looper makes; it will slide right into the right needle stitch.)

It may seem like a lot of work, but trust me, it goes quickly, and you’ll love the results.

3. Here’s the fun part! Once the needle threads are removed, all you need to do is grab the looper threads, give a little pull, and voilà! It will unravel like a dream. There won’t be all those little threads to gather, and you’ll be on your way to re-sewing your seam.

I hope this saves you some grief while sewing. Be sure to comment if you have some great sewing tips for us!

Here are some other sewing blog posts you may be interested in:

OVERLOCK STITCH | NO SERGER NEEDED 

SEWING BY HAND | MOST IMPORTANT STITCHES TO KNOW

Have fun sewing and UNPICKING!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

OVERLOCK STITCH | No Serger Needed

over lock sewing machine

Do you want a finished overlock stitch for your seams but don’t have a serger? NO WORRIES! I am going to show you how to finish your seams using four different methods and there is NO SERGER NEEDED!

Ideally, it would be nice to have a serger in your sewing tool kit; however, not everyone can afford one or has access to one.

Maybe you’re just getting into sewing and haven’t ventured into the serger world yet.

There are still several ways to get a nice finished edge without using a serger.

I did it for years and these few stitches I’m going to show you work well.

Why do you need to finish seam edges?

If you are sewing on a woven fabric, the seams WILL eventually fray, especially after washing.

You don’t want your seam to come undone after all the work you put into a project.

Depending on what you are sewing, you can use different methods. I will show you several different ways to finish the seam edges.

Even the most basic sewing machines will have these stitches.

Sewing Machine Overlock Stitch Alternatives

ZIGZAG STITCH

This is a stitch when sewn along the edge of the fabric will keep it from fraying.
SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS: Width 4-5, Length 1-2

You can either open the seam and sew each side of the seam allowance separately or sew them together.

This depends on the project you are sewing.

If the pattern has you open the seam and press, sew separately.

This is good for light to medium-weight fabrics. (cotton prints, linen, etc.)

ZIGZAG STITCH with ADDED STRAIGHT STITCH

SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS: Width 0, Length 2.5
For added strength and a more finished look, you can sew down along the inside edge of the zigzag stitch.

You will see this type of seam used on jeans, and projects that with heavier weight fabrics and seams that need more stability.

OVERLOCK STITCH

This is an actual stitch option on your machine. It looks like a zigzag with a straight stitch on the side.

It will take a bit longer than it would with a serger, but it does the job.

THIS STITCH WORKS WELL ON STRETCHY FABRIC! When using this stitch on stretch fabric seams, the seams won’t pop open when pulled.

A narrow and short zigzag stitch will also do the same thing. LOVE IT!

You can use this as your seam stitch and the overlock seam.

However, since the seam is small, your seam allowance will be very small.

You’ll have to take that into consideration and trim the seam allowance first.

Most machines will come with a unique OVERLOCK FOOT. You can see what it looks like in the photo above.

This foot will help guide the fabric so you are sewing right along the edge where you’re supposed to. It works well.

SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS: Width 4-5, Length 1-2

SLANTED LADDER STITCH

This is another sewing stitch option that most machines will have. It is also good for stretchy fabrics.
SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS: Width 4-5, Length 1-2
You can play with the length and width to get the stitch you want.

I recommend getting some scrap fabric and practicing with these stitches.

You’re going to love it.

Please send me a note if you have any questions.

Have fun sewing!

Other posts you may find helpful:

Sewing By Hand, Most Important Stitches to Know

DIY Bias Tape

Have fun sewing and remember to keep it SIMPLE!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

DIY Cut Off Shorts | 4 Simple Hemming Methods

cutoff short options

Making a pair of DIY cut off shorts is a snap with these 4 simple hemming methods. This is a great way to recycle and save a lot of money! As you know, I like to upcycle and re-purpose items.  Clothing is one of them.

Cutting off a long pair of pants and making a pair of shorts is one of the simplest upcycling projects there is. I am going to show you FOUR different ways to hem your cut-off shorts.

I recommend watching the video tutorial which will walk you through all four of these methods step-by-step!

  • Cut Off & Fray
  • Rolled Hem
  • Cuffed Hem
  • Trouser Hem

What you’ll need to make a pair of cut-off shorts

  • Pair of pants

Pants of all kinds can be used. Jeans are one of my favorite things to cut off. So if you have a pair of jeans that have holes in them, don’t throw them out, make SHORTS!

If you don’t have a pair of pants you want to cut off, thrift stores, consignment shops, and yard sales are great places to pick up an inexpensive pair of pants.

  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine (optional)
  • Pins
  • Needle & Thread (optional)
  • Chalk pen (optional)
  • Seam gauge
  • Iron

How long do you want your cut-off shorts?

Whichever way you choose to hem your cut-offs; the first thing you’ll need to do is decide HOW LONG YOU WANT THEM.

The easiest way is to take a pair of shorts that you already have and like the length and use them as a template.  Or you can simply try the pants on and carefully apply a straight pin at the DESIRED LENGTH. DO NOT CUT OFF AT THIS POINT!

Once you’ve decided how long you want your shorts, it’s time to decide how you want to finish the edge.

If you are using an existing pair of shorts as a template, simply lay the shorts on top of the long pair of pants you are cutting off. Line up the CROTCH SEAM, NOT THE WAISTLINE. (Some pants have a longer waist height than others). Make sure the waist is lined up horizontally so you get an even cut.

Depending on what hem style you are using, you’ll either be cutting off at the DESIRED LENGTH or ADDING TO THE LENGTH.

CUT OFF & FRAY – Cut off at that length.

ROLLED HEM  –  Add ¾ inch

CUFFED HEM  – Add 2 inches

TROUSER HEM – Add 1 3/8 INCHES

1  Cut Off & Fray

The “cut off & fray method” is the simplest and quickest way to finish a pair of shorts.

  1. Cut off one pant leg at the DESIRED LENGTH.
  2. Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.
  3. Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

You can leave the fabric unfinished and just the fabric fray out. I recommend sewing around the leg with a straight stitch ¼ – ½ inch from the cut edge. This will keep the fray to a minimum. This is a preference only.

2  Rolled Hem

Using a seam gauge, measure ¾ inch from the DESIRED LENGTH MARK. Make sure the top of the waist is even and straight. Use a chalk pen or disappearing ink pen and draw a cutting line.

Cut off one pant leg.

Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.

Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

Fold the edge up 3/8 inch and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place.

Topstitch just inside the fold all the way around, starting at the inner thigh seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Repeat on the other pant leg. Finished cut edge by using a serger, or the zigzag stitch of a single needle machine.

Fold the edge up, wrong sides together, 3/8 inch, and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place.

Finish cut edge by using a serger, or the zigzag stitch of a single needle machine.

Fold the edge up, wrong sides together, 3/8 inch, and press. Roll up another 3/8 and press.

Pin in place

Tack the cuff in place so it does not come undone while laundering. To do this, simply sew along the side seams of the cuff using the sewing machine or you can do this by hand.

4 Trouser Hem

This hemming method is a good one to use if you want a more finished look. Dress pants and trousers with a lighter weight fabric work well.

  1. Using a seam gauge, measure 1 3/8 inches from the DESIRED LENGTH MARK. Make sure the top of the waist is even and straight. Using a chalk pen or disappearing ink pen and draw a cutting line.
  2. Cut off one pant leg.
  3. Fold the pants in half and line up the top of the waist.
  4. Use the already cut pant leg as a guide to cut off the other side.

Fold the cut edge up 3/8 inch and press.

Now fold another 1 inch. Press and pin in place.

There are a few ways to finish this hem. You can topstitch with a single or double stitch or you can use the BLIND HEM STITCH. The blind hem stitch can be done by hand or by using the sewing machine. You can watch the blind hem video tutorial HERE.

There you have it; four different ways to make a pair of cut-off shorts from an upcycled pair of pants. It’s pretty simple and straightforward. Let me know if you have any questions.

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

SEWING BY HAND | Most Important Stitches to Know

SEWING BY HAND | Most Important Stitches to Know

 

Knowing how to sew these 3 basic stitches will allow you to mend and create items that you might not be able to because you don’t have a sewing machine.

Although there are several other hand sewing stitches and techniques, I will only show you the basting or running stitch, the stretch stitch or herringbone stitch, and the backstitch.

Items Needed:

  • All-purpose thread
  • Scissors
  • Needle

(I recommend getting a variety of needles to have handy for different projects). For basic hand sewing, use a sharp or a milliner. You can get more technical with eye size and point types, but choose a mid-sized one for now.

  • Thimble (optional)
  • Needle threader (optional)

I recommend purchasing or making your own little sewing kit. This one comes with everything you’ll need, including my favorite fabric clips and small scissors.

It comes in several thread colors for those small mending projects.

Threading the needle

You can either use a single or double thread. I use a double thread for most projects. Please don’t get the thread too long, or it may be prone to tangling while sewing.

A good length is around 16 inches after doubling.

 

Knotting the thread

Unless you are just basting, each seam will need to start and end with an anchor stitch.

This is where you knot the thread so it will not come undone. You can make a knot at the end of your thread for most projects.

To do this, take the ends of the thread and wrap them around your pointer finger, then roll the thread between your fingers. Gently pull the thread, and it will create a little knot.

Then you’re ready to begin. To make a knot at the end of the seam, pull the needle to the backside and take a tiny stitch, leaving a little loop.

Wrap the needle around the loop once and pull the thread. This will knot the thread.

You can use an anchor stitch if you don’t want the bulk of a bunch of knots when you’re sewing by hand.

Take a tiny stitch and then another little stitch right by it. Then start your stitching. You can end a seam the same way.

SEWING BY HAND stitches that are important to know

 

Basting stitch/Running Stitch

The basting stitch/running stitch is excellent for temporarily holding pieces of fabric together or for quick seams that don’t need to be sturdy.

This stitch can also gather fabric for ruffles or easing in.

Take the needle in and out of the fabric with ¼ to ½ inch long stitches.

Take several stitches at a time by popping the needle in and out of the fabric before pulling through.

Stretch Stitch/Herringbone Stitch

This stitch has several names. I like to call it a hand stretch stitch because it works so well with stretchy fabrics. (The seam won’t pop and break like a straight stitch will when sewn on knit fabrics).

You can also use it for hemming and decorative embroidery and quilt making.

 

Drawing two horizontal lines with a washable pencil or chalk will help as a guide while sewing by hand.

Work the stitch from left to right, making little back stitches and crossing over to the other line at a diagonal.

 

Backstitch

The backstitch is one of the strongest, most adaptable stitches.

It mimics the straight stitch you would see on a sewing machine and is useful for simple mending jobs and other small projects. It is also useful if you plan on sewing your own clothing by hand.

 

To keep your seam as straight and tidy as possible, it’s helpful to mark the stitching line with a thin pencil line. You can use a sharp pencil, chalk pen, or washable ink.

On straight seams, use a ruler.

 

Push the needle into the fabric where you want to start the seam.

Bring the needle back through both layers of fabric just in front of the previous stitch.

Push the needle back into the fabric between where the needle came in and out of the fabric to create the first stitch.

These stitches can touch each other, as you see here, or you can space them a little farther apart.

 

Continue this pattern until you are at the end of the seam. Push the needle to the back side and take your anchor stitch and knot in place.

 

Pin your project to a firm bolster or pillow. This will allow you to sew a lot faster.

I hope this makes sewing by hand less intimidating and helps you understand how to use these three basic stitches.

 

Have fun sewing!

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Sewing Machine Needles: Why Choosing the Right One Matters

sewing machine needles pin

You may think that the type of sewing machine needles that you’re using in your machine doesn’t really matter, but it does! Using the right sewing machine needle size and type for the project can mean the difference between broken threads, skipped stitches and a  professional looking seam.

I thought for years that the reason I was getting a “bad stitch” was because there was something wrong with my machine. Not so.

One day I was doing a little research on needles and read how using a “sharp” needle will give you a nice straight stitch when topstitching. So I switched my needle to a sharp needle, and BAM I got a beautiful straight stitch.

I was considering buying a new sewing machine, thinking mine had serious problems, when all I had to do was use the right type of needle! That piece of information saved me a few bucks.

So choosing the right needle does matter!

How do I choose the right sewing machine needles?

It’s all about the needle type and size.

You’ll select the needle type by what kind of fabric you are sewing on (i.e. knit vs. woven).

The needle size is determined by the thickness and weight of the fabric.

 

sewing tips SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Needle Types

I am going to go over some of the most common needle types. (Don’t let all this information overwhelm you. It really is quite simple).

Universal Needles

As the name suggests, universal needles are the most commonly used needle. They can be used with woven fabrics, synthetics and some knit fabrics. This is the type of needle I use for 90 % of my sewing. The finer needles are mostly used for lightweight fabrics. Larger sizes are used on medium to heavyweight fabrics. I recommend staying stocked up on a good basic Universal needle. There are variety packs that include sizes 70-90, like the one pictured above.

Ball point

Ball point needles are similar to a universal needle but it has a more rounded tip, which pushes the fabric fibers apart rather than cutting them. This makes ball point needles ideal for working with tightly woven, rib knits, interlock, cotton knits, fleece, and double knit.

Jersey

Jersey needles are a standard ball point needle specifically for knit fabric (t-shirt fabric). If when using a jersey needle you experience stitch skipping, you will want to switch to a stretch needle.

Stretch

Stretch needles, often confused with Jersey needles, are also a medium ballpoint tip. These needles are good for extremely 2 way stretchy fabrics like spandex and elastic. If you’re sewing swimwear, grab this type of needle for sure.

Leather

Leather needles are often known as chisel point needles thanks to a point that looks and acts like a chisel when in use. These needles should be used with genuine leather, suede and difficult to sew projects, but should not be used with imitation leather, ultra suede or synthetic suede since the characteristics of these fabrics are quite different.

Quilting

Quilting needles are designed to be used with several layers of fabric because of their reinforced shaft.

Sharps

This needle has a sharp point and narrow shaft for piercing woven fabric.  Works best on finely woven fabric like chintz, silk, light weight faux suede, and microfiber. They are also great for heirloom sewing or any other type of topstitching.

Topstitching

The extra large eye, large groove, and sharp point make it perfect for heavy decorative threads, like embroidery thread, or even two strands of all purpose thread. Use this needle anytime you have stitches visible on the outside of your project for a neat, clean look.

Denim

Denim Needles have a sharp point and strong shaft. These needles can stitch through many layers without breaking. Use on heavy, tightly woven fabric, like denim, canvas, and duck.

Twin

Twin needles have a single shaft connecting two needles. This is often used when you want two perfectly matching stitches. This is a common seam for jeans and decorative stitching. Your machine must be twin needle capable, with two separate thread spools and a wide enough needle plat. They are available in Denim, Stretch, Embroidery, Metallic, and Universal. These work well for topstitching t-shirt hems.

 

Sewing Machine Needles Sizes

So what are those numbers shown on the packages of needles? I am embarrassed to admit that until just recently I didn’t understand what they meant. I knew it had to do something with the size.

If you look at most needle packaging they will have 2 numbers on them with a / to divide them. For example ( 80/12). The smaller number relates to the American system and ranges from 8 to 20 and the larger number is for the European system and ranges from 60 to 120. Who knew?

What sewing machine needles size do you use for what projects?

The numbers represent the thickness of the fabric that you are able to sew with the needle. The larger the numbers the thicker the fabric you can sew. Common sizes are 60/8, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16

I have created a sewing machine needle guide that will hopefully help you figure out what type of needle will suit the sewing project you’re working on. (Look for the download link below) What do the colors on the needle shaft mean?

 

You may have wondered what the little color stripes painted on the shaft of the needle mean. The top color indicates the needle type and the bottom color indicates the needle size

 

You will find variations of the same color in different brands but ultimately, this is the chart:

  • Universal – no color code
  • Ball point – medium blue
  • Jersey – orange or light brown
  • Stretch – Yellow
  • Jeans – dark blue
  • Microtex – purple
  • Leather – brown
  • Universal twin – red shaft
  • Stretch twin – blue shaft
  • Quilting – green

 

I love having a copy of this chart in my wallet for those times when I need to purchase a new needle. You can laminate the charts to make them last longer.

I have made the PDF available for you to download and print for FREE!

This PDF includes THREE different size charts.

  • 1 LARGE – to hang in your sewing room.
  • 1 MEDIUM
  • 2 SMALL – to keep handy in your purse or even your wallet.

How long do sewing machine needles last?

Ideally, you should change your needle beginning of each project. But if that’s a little too much, the best practice is to change the needle about every 10 hours of continuous sewing.

If you accidentally hit a pin when sewing, then you should change the needle immediately as you will have damaged the tip and you won’t get a good stitch and may even mess up your bobbin.

What brand is the best when it comes to sewing machine needles?

Every seamstress may have their favorite brand or if you’re like me, they all seem to work just fine.  I don’t think you can go wrong with a Schmetz needle. They offer such a large variety. Schmetz needles are of such good quality you’ll find that changing the needle every 10 hrs of sewing is not quite necessary, the needles still look and feel amazing! You should still change the needles though as they might get damaged when you’re in the middle of your next project or 10 hrs round.

How to store and manage your sewing machine needles

Do you ever change needles and just stick it in your pin cushion or on your sewing cabinet? Then weeks later wonder what size or type of needle it is?

I do this all the time and end up just pitching it because I don’t want to be using the wrong needle. They do engrave that information on the needle itself, however you’ll need a magnifying glass to be able to read it.

So I have started marking the needle when I take it out of the machine with a little piece of masking tape. Works like a charm.

 

sewing machine needle tin

I store my needles in a recycled Altoids Mint tin.

I hope this was helpful!

When I started using the correct needle for the project at hand; it did make a huge difference in my sewing results, and I didn’t have to buy a new sewing machine. LOL.

Want some hand sewing tips? Check out this post showing you some basic hand-sewing stitches.

Have fun sewing my friends,

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Upcycled T Shirts – Ideas and Tips

Do you have a t shirt that you love, but it doesn’t fit anymore or has gone out of style?  Give it a second life by making something else out of it. Here are some great upcycled t shirts ideas and tips.

Knits are “sew” fun to work with and there are so many fun things you can make with them, especially children’s clothing.

Although, nowadays, little kids’ t-shirts are usually cheaper just to buy already made, than to purchase a pattern and fabric (not to mention the time involved).

However, if you already have an existing shirt to use for fabric, and an EASY pattern, then making something can be quite fun and save you a lot of money!

Have you priced good-quality interlock knits lately?  They are not cheap and the selection is usually poor.

This piece of knit with 5 % spandex was $12.99 yard.

So if you have a shirt that has good quality fabric, good colors, and design, and you don’t wear it anymore, MAKE SOMETHING COOL WITH IT!

Here are a few ideas of what to do with upcycled t-shirts:

Here are a few before and after photos

 

polka dot knit shirt upcycled t shirts

I used this polka dot shirt to make a skirt……..

repurposed t shirts before

……….. and this shirt to make a comfy double fold yoga waistband for the skirt.

Ta-dah!  I added a cute green pom pom trim on the bottom and look what a cute whimsy skirt these upcycled shirts made.

You can get the pattern for this skirt HERE.

Felted wool sweater strips make up this cute skirt. (pattern can be purchased in my Shop).

I used this shirt for the waistband.

This purple turtle neck wasn’t the most attractive shirt to wear, however, it was good fabric and worked really nicely for the yoga waistband on this simple fleece skirt.

So instead of going in the trash, or to the thrift store, this shirt came in real handy!

I love cutting strips of t-shirts and winding them up into a ball. Not only do they look cute sitting in a basket, but there are a lot of fun things to make with strips of knit shirts.

Here is a link to a video tutorial on how to cut up the shirt into t-shirt yarn.

Go to Pinterest and type in the search ” t-shirt strips” and you’ll find all kinds of fun things to make.

If you haven’t seen my post on how to make these adorable baby beanies from upcycled t-shirts, you can find it HERE.

In a previous post, I show and give some tips on how to cut out t-shirts to get them ready for projects and how to use the fabric for other things.

 

So, that was a mouth full. I hope you find it inspiring and gives you a few ideas.

Have fun sewing my friends!

 

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More

DIY Cone Thread Holder

DIY cone thread holder

Using cone thread on your home sewing machine can save you lots of money! Here is a quick DIY tutorial on how to make your own thread holder for cone thread. A regular spool of thread usually holds around 300 yards of thread where cone thread holds around 3000 yards. There is just one problem. Unless you have a cone thread stand, the thread will not feed evenly into your machine and will bounce around and cause all kinds of tension problems while sewing. NO PROBLEM!

Why not MAKE YOUR OWN with items I am sure you have kicking around your house. (Cone thread stands that you buy at the store or on line cost around $13-15).

All you need:

  • paper clip
  • some tape
  • cd holder, mug or small bowl
cone holder

Simply bend the paper clip to look like this and tape it to the back of your machine.

Place the cone thread on the cd spindle and thread it through the paper clip and into your machine.  Tad-ah!

cone holder

You can also use a simple mug or small bowl to put the thread in.

cone holder

If you ever use a double needle, having an extra cone thread holder really comes in handy.  (The stand you see on the right is a cone thread holder I purchased at the store).

cone holder

My sister called one day to tell me about an add she found on KSL. Some guy was selling a garage full of industrial cone thread that he had for his business, and for a good price. We got in our cars, drove and hour, and met at this guys house. There we were, three sisters, who love to sew, rummaging through a garage full of cone thread.  He had every color of the rainbow. Most of them brand new.  We were there in the heat of the summer, just a sweating, trying to decide what colors and how much to buy? I think I was there 2 hours and had to leave to teach a yoga class. My sisters stayed another hour longer than I did. I don’t think I should ever have to buy thread again!

Cone thread may seem pricey up front, but in the long run you are going to save a ton of money. Start with the basic colors, and by all means, when it comes on sale, or you see a great deal, stock up. LOL.

If you don’t have a stand for cone thread on your machine, see how easy it is to make your own.

Upcycled Sweater Slippers: Sewing Tips & Tricks

For all my upcycling friends, it’s time to get busy in Santa’s workshop. If you are still contemplating what to make for your loved ones for Christmas, why don’t you sew up a pair of upcycled sweater slippers?

Some of you may have already purchased one of my upcycled sweater patterns and have experience sewing with felted wool sweaters.

Others of you may not even know what I am talking about.

Making something out of a recycled sweater is so fun and rewarding.

There are so many things you can create with this yummy fabric once it is felted.

If you want more information about how to felt wool sweaters, you can check out the tutorial HERE.

Today, I want to share some tips and tricks for making upcycled sweater slippers.

I am going to cover:

  • sole fabric options

  • cutting out tips

  • binding tips

  • hidden seam lining

Sweater slippers SOLE FABRIC OPTIONS

Depending on your needs, there are several options of fabric to use for the bottoms of your slippers. You can use

  • A regular weight felted wool sweater 

Using a regular sweater as the sole, is softer and a bit cozier. However, if you have hardwood floors or tile in your home, they can be a little slippery.

  • Thick, dense felted wool sweater

Sometimes when you shrink down a sweater it can get really dense and thick. These sweaters are more difficult to use on other craft projects but work well for the soles of slippers.  The only drawback here is that they can be a little more challenging to sew with because they are so thick.

These fabrics can be nice to sew into the soles of sweater slippers for LITTLE PEOPLE’s feet.  Most likely you have seen the fabric on the bottoms of children’s one-piece pajamas.

You can find this fabric on the bolt in most fabric stores, or in pre-cut packages. It is also available online.

Another thing to do to prevent slipping and works better for adult slippers is to simply use a rubber shelf liner. It is inexpensive and easy to work with. You can get it at most stores and online here.

*When using either of these two fabrics, you will be cutting out a regular sole piece with a regular weight sweater AND the anti-slip fabric. You will stack those two pieces together and treat them as the sole piece.

  • Leather  or suede

Sewing in a leather or suede sole can be really nice.

It will make the slippers much more durable and can be less slippery.

Working with leather can be a little more challenging, as it does not have any give to it, but not too big of a deal. I love sewing on leather.

The only thing is that you will want to make sure it is a nice soft piece and not too thick.

CUTTING OUT

When cutting out pattern pieces with felted wool sweaters, you want to maximize the fabric. (It’s crafting gold) Place the pattern as close to the edge as possible. Arrange the pattern to use up the best space possible.

Felted sweaters will not fray. So don’t worry about that.

 If the sweater has a print, stripe, or design, you must consider that when placing the pattern piece.

Since you are making a pair of slippers, and there is a LEFT and RIGHT side, after cutting out one piece, you will need to flip the pattern over and then place it back on the fabric. (Very Important)

Another tip I give in the pattern tutorial is to USE SAFETY PINS to help mark the RIGHT SIDES of the fabric.

Applying a safety pin to each pattern piece will help keep things straight when putting everything together!

Don’t forget to SAVE YOUR SCRAPS!  There are so many fun things to make with all your scraps.
Sweater balls, hearts, dryer balls, etc. can all be made with small pieces of sweater fabric.

BINDING

I came up with this technique that saves time and is much easier when sewing binding on something.

However, this technique can only be used if you are using fleece or a stretchy piece of felted wool.

The reason is, that fleece and felted sweaters DO NOT FRAY! I Love applying fleece binding. 

You can read more about how to do it here.

You can also access my FREE online binding course HERE.

HIDDEN SEAM LINING

This is a cool way to apply the lining to a pair of sweater slippers without all the bulk and a seam showing.

Using this technique can be a bit difficult to understand, so I thought I would clarify the process and show you a little clip from my online class on how to do it.

Play Video

Share:

Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest

Connect:

Picture of Jan Howell

Jan Howell

Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.

Read More