SEWING BY HAND | Most Important Stitches to Know
Knowing how to sew these 3 basic stitches will allow you to mend and create items that maybe you thought you couldn’t because you don’t have a sewing machine.
Although there are several other hand sewing stitches and techniques, I am only going to show you the basting or running stitch, stretch stitch or herringbone stitch, and the backstitch.
Items Needed:
- All-purpose thread
- Scissors
- Needle
(I recommend getting a variety set of needles to have handy for different projects). For basic hand sewing, use a sharp or a milliner. You can get more technical with eye size and point types, but for now, just choose one that is mid-sized.
- Thimble (optional)
- Needle threader (optional)
I recommend purchasing or making your own little sewing kit. What I love about this one is it comes with everything you’ll need, even my favorite fabric clips and small scissors. It comes with several colors of thread for those small mending projects.
Threading the needle
You can either use a single or double thread. I use a double thread for most projects. Don’t get the thread too long or it may be prone to tangling while sewing. A good length is around 16 inches after doubled.
Knotting the thread
Each seam, unless you are just basting, will need to start and end with an anchor stitch. This is where you knot the thread so it will not come undone. For most projects, you can just make a knot at the end of your thread.
To do this, simply take the ends of the thread and wrap it around your pointer finder then roll the thread between your fingers. Gently pull the thread and it will create a little knot. Then you’re ready to begin. To make a knot at the end of the seam, pull the needle to the backside and take a TINY stitch, leaving a little loop.
Wrap the needle around the loop once and pull the thread. Thiswill knot the thread.
If you don’t want the bulk of a bunch of knots when you’re sewing by hand, you can use an anchor stitch. Simply take a tiny stitch and then another tiny stitch right by it. Then start your stitching. You can end a seam the same way.
SEWING BY HAND stitches that are important to know
Basting stitch/running stitch
The basting stitch/running stitch is great for temporarily holding pieces of fabric together or for quick seams that don’t need to be real sturdy. This stitch can also be used to gather fabric for ruffles or easing in.
Take the needle in and out of the fabric with ¼ to ½ inch long stitches. Take several stitches at a time by popping the needle in and out of the fabric before pulling through.
Stretch stitch/herringbone stitch
This stitch has several names. I like to call it a hand stretch stitch because it works so well with stretchy fabrics. (The seam won’t pop and break like a straight stitch will when sewn on knit fabrics).
You can also use it for hemming and decorative embroidery and quilt making.
Drawing two horizontal lines with a washable pencil or chalk will help as a guide while sewing by hand. Work the stitch from left to right, making little back stitches and crossing over at a diagonal to the other line.
backstitch
The backstitch is one of the strongest, most adaptable stitches. This stitch mimics the straight stitch you would see on a sewing machine and is good to know for simple mending jobs and other small projects. Also good to know if you plan on sewing your own clothing by hand.
To keep your seam as straight and as tidy as possible, it’s helpful to mark the line of stitching with a thin pencil line. You can us a sharp pencil, chalk pen, or washable ink. On straight seams, use a ruler.
Push the needle into the fabric where you want to start the seam. Bring the needle back through both layers of fabric just in front of the previous stitch. Push the needle back into the fabric between where the needle came in and out of the fabric to create the first stitch. These stitches can touch each other, as you see here, or you can space them a little farther apart.
Continue this pattern until you are at the end of the seam. Push the needle to the back side and take your anchor stitch and knot in place.
Pin your project to a firm bolster or pillow. This will allow you to sew a lot faster.
I hope this makes sewing by hand a little less intimidating and helps you understand how to use these three basic stitches.
The running stitch could come in real handy to make the NO SEW FACE MASKS stay in place longer. Real simple to do!
Have fun sewing!
Jan Howell
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Jan Howell
Whether it’s a new recipe, a fun craft, or some handy tips for your garden and home, I hope to empower and inspire you with skills that you can use to create joy, improved health, and to do it in a simple way.
2 Comments
Hi Jan! Ironically, I was watching one of your youtube videos when I went to Google “stretch stitch hand sewing” to remind myself of the stitch my Nana taught me years ago! I’m currently just practicing, but I’m itching to do a larger sewing project this winter! Is there a specific way to finish the stitches on the herringbone stitch that makes it strong enough and it won’t break/pop? Also, any tips for making the herringbone stitches a bit tighter without getting any puckering issues? I’m seeing a LOT of stretch on my sample pieces of knit and fleece and I feel that I’m seeing way too much thread in those seams if that makes any sense? Thanks so much!
Hi Ash, if you want those stitches to be closer together and no puckering, make those horizontal stitches closer together, even right next to each other. Try that and let me know how it goes for you.