How To Hem Knit Fabrics / 4 easy Ways to Get a Professional Finish
Have you ever tried to hem a t-shirt, leggings, or another stretchy item only to end up with a wavy, stretched-out mess? 😬 It can be so frustrating — but it doesn’t have to be!
In this tutorial, I’m going to show you four simple ways to hem knit fabric so your projects look clean, professional, and wave-free.
These methods are easy to do, and once you try them, you’ll never dread hemming stretch fabric again.
Use the Right Needle
Before anything else, make sure you’re using the correct needle for knit fabrics.
A ballpoint needle of some kind, a stretch needle, jersey or microtex needle gently separates the fabric fibers instead of piercing them, preventing those annoying little holes along your stitches.
Keep your needles organized!
I like to store my “in-use” needle in a labeled pin cushion so I always know what’s in my machine.
1. Stabilize with Stitch Witchery Fusible Web
If your fabric edges love to curl, fusible bonding web will be your best friend.
- Stitch Witchery comes in two different widths (¼” or ⅝” wide), place it along the hem edge, fold the fabric over, and press with your iron. This gives your hem stability and keeps it flat while you sew.
- Then, use a zigzag stitch or lightning bolt stitch so your seam can stretch with the fabric.
❌ Avoid straight stitches when sewing on any stretchy fabrics — they’ll pop when the fabric stretches!
2. Wash-Away Wonder Tape
This is one of my go-to hemming hacks!
Wash-Away Wonder Tape is a double-sided adhesive tape that holds your hem in place perfectly without pins.
- Apply it to the wrong side of your fabric, peel off the paper backing, fold the hem, and sew.
The best part? It won’t gum up your sewing machine needle.
Important: After sewing, wash your project before wearing or using, to dissolve the tape before stretching the fabric — otherwise, your stitches may pop.
3. Spray Starch for Extra Control
Sometimes all you need is a little extra control!
A light mist of spray starch makes your knit fabric more stable and easier to fold.
- Lay down some paper to protect your ironing surface, spray your hem area well, and press it in place.
This will not hold it in place or make it stiff forever, but it will give you just enough structure to get a clean, even fold before sewing.
4. Get a Professional Look with a Twin Needle
If you want that store-bought finish on your t-shirts and leggings, a twin needle is the secret weapon.
It creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side and a zigzag on the back, allowing for stretch while looking polished.
Threading two needles on a regular sewing machine is easier than it looks.
- Insert the twin needle into your machine.
- Set the machine to a normal STRAIGHT STITCH (2.5)
- Thread your machine just like you always do.
- Add another spool of thread using the extra spindle tha most sewing machines will have. You can use another spool or thread or a bobbin.
- Thread it through the machine the same way. EXCEPT, DO NOT THREAD IT THROUGHT THE THREAD GUIDE as shown in the picture above.
- Thread both needles and you are ready to roll.
*** Make sure you are using a presser foot that allows the zig zag stitch.
Sew on the right side of the fabric, and hold your threads for a few stitches to avoid thread nests.
And there you have it — four easy, reliable ways to hem stretchy knit fabric like a pro.
Whether you use
these methods will give you smooth, flat hems every time.
Which technique do you like best?
Let me know in the comments below!
Stay tuned — I’ve got more knit fabric projects and patterns coming up that will show you just how fun and easy sewing with knits can be.
1- Lay your t-shirt wrong side facing out on the ironing board
3- Cut a small square of the interfacing about 1 x 1 inch
6- Center and place the webbing on top of the hole
9- Place the hot iron on the patch and press for 10 seconds (DON’T MOVE THE IRON AROUND).
11- Gently take your fingernails and close the hole by pressing the edges of the hole together.
